How to make a skin oil less.....oily? - Chemists Corner

Formulating

How to make a skin oil less…..oily?

Posted by BekaS on October 29, 2019 at 8:33 pm

I want to make a skin oil with several different types of oils in it. I just don’t want it to feel super greasy. I’ve used several skin oils that feel beautiful and don’t leave a greasy residue. What can I add to my oils to achieve this?

ngarayeva001 replied 3 years, 5 months ago 8 Members · 13 Replies
13 Replies

ngarayeva001

Member
October 29, 2019 at 8:40 pm

Use esters. Isopropyl Myristate (aka IPM) is easy to find, cheap and has a dry feel. Replace half of your oils with it and your product won’t be greasy. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is another good option (heavier than IPM). Esters are great.
Fekher

Member
October 29, 2019 at 8:50 pm

@BekaS try lightweight oils they do the job.
pccochran

Member
October 30, 2019 at 9:51 pm

@ngarayeva001 was right on the money with isopropyl myristate. It’s great at removing stickiness and enhancing penetration.

Also, make sure that you don’t accidentally make a w/o emulsion, which will naturally be very greasy. O/w is what you want. I used lecithin with my first emulsions, and I ended up with w/o creams that were very sticky and unpleasant.
ngarayeva001

Member
October 30, 2019 at 10:21 pm

@pccochran, it’s true about conventional W/O but modern materials allow creating high internal phase w/o with fantastic sensorial. Light and fluffy and yet cushiony. Very hard to stabilize unfortunately. The longest living prototype was just 4 months for me. Still trying
pccochran

Member
October 31, 2019 at 2:08 am

I can’t wait to hear about what you learn.

ngarayeva001

Member

October 31, 2019 at 3:35 pm

This is the most stable one:

INCI	%
Aqua	61.00%
Betaine	3.00%
Magnesium Sulfate	1.00%
Sodium lactate	2.00%
Euxyl PE 9010	1.00%
PG	3.00%
Phenyl trimethicone	3.00%
Caprylic/Capric	1.00%
Magnesium Stearate	0.50%
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone	8.00%
Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone	0.70%
Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate	0.50%
Color	15.00%
HCO	0.30%

It’s a foundation but it can be made into a moisturiser if you don’t add pigments. What I learnt so far, adding salt and Mg stearate is a must.

Majman

Member
November 3, 2019 at 1:10 pm

How about using alpha bisabolol
ngarayeva001

Member
November 3, 2019 at 5:56 pm

Alpha bisabolol is an active that is added at very low % and has nothing to do with greasiness
smok

Member
November 10, 2019 at 10:00 am

ngarayeva001 said:

Use esters. Isopropyl Myristate (aka IPM) is easy to find, cheap and has a dry feel. Replace half of your oils with it and your product won’t be greasy. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is another good option (heavier than IPM). Esters are great.

ngarayeva001 said:

Use esters. Isopropyl Myristate (aka IPM) is easy to find, cheap and has a dry feel. Replace half of your oils with it and your product won’t be greasy. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is another good option (heavier than IPM). Esters are great.

do you mean 50/50 opils and Isopropyl myristate?REALY,?
ngarayeva001

Member
November 10, 2019 at 11:41 am

You need to play with proportions because everyone’s perception of what is oily and what isn’t is different
Doreen

Member
November 10, 2019 at 4:52 pm

A volatile silicone, like cyclo D5 (cyclopentasiloxane) also has a less greasy feel and makes spreading easy.
Abdullah

Member
November 30, 2020 at 3:14 am

@ngarayeva001 what does salt and mg stearate do that it is a must?
ngarayeva001

Member
November 30, 2020 at 11:21 pm

Salt is a must for any w/o. It will separate otherwise. Mg Stearate is a stabiliser of the oil phase. It can be replaced by a wax.

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