emma1985
Forum Replies Created
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Pattsi said:I had pilling issue when I used too high high spread oil with too low fatty acid, the thickener pilled after excessive rub.
I use aristoflex and sodium carbomer with silicone quite often, never have pilling issue.Hi, I’m sorry to be a bother but I don’t quite understand. I’m not sure what you mean by too high spread oil with too low fatty acids. Can you clarify? Thank you so much. ????
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My homogenize does not work with products with any kind of viscosity. Most homogenizers are the same. So I would say no, homogenizer won’t work with a lotion base.
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It’s 3% of a 1% solution, 0.8-1 million Daltons
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Thank you! I never would have thought of the thickeners. I guess I can try reducing the Aristoflex by 0.1%.
Thanks again.
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ngarayeva001 said:@amitvedakar, the only point I am trying to make is that synthetic doesn’t mean poisonous and natural doesn’t always means safe. I understand that properly treated aloe is safe but the commentator above went down the route of unsubstantiated claims about natural ingredients. It’s problematic to prove a negative statement using scientific methods (such as aloe doesn’t do something) so I can’t share a study that would disprove claims made, but I showed that natural ingredient (aloe in this case) can actually be rather problematic.
I could not agree more. Do you figure we will ever move past this “chemicals are scary” BS in the skincare community? I can’t freaking stand it. Partially to blame are natural formulators for perpetuating the myth. But I understand that there is a market and people want to make money.
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As someone who is first and foremost, a skincare consumer, I’m thrilled to see that you are using 25%, the maximum allowable concentration, of Zinc Oxide, in addition to a high concentration of Titanium Dioxide.
It is pretty well known in skincare communities that though Zinc at lower concentrations than 20% will impart UVB protection, it does not provide adequate UVA protection.
See this write up.
I also disagree with the argument that because SPF 30 blocks 96.7% of UVB, that a higher SPF sunscreen is not warranted. This is an incomplete analysis because what this argument neglects completely is UVA.
UVB causes melanoma and sunburn, UVA causes 80-90% of visible skin aging AND also plays a role I the development of skin cancer.
What I can tell you is that informed skincare consumers are more concerned with protecting their skin against UVA, because UVA is the frequency that causes the overwhelming majority of day to day sun damage.
For example, UVA penetrates glass, so we are essentially always exposed to UVA (unless you live in a basement with no windows.) UVB does not. Additionally, UVA penetrates much deeper in the skin than UVB, destroying DNA by activating matrix metalloproteinases. Lastly, UVB is much stronger in the summer and much weaker in the winter, whereas UVA is more constant and its “strength” does not fluctuate as much as UVB through the seasons.
The higher the SPF and Zinc Oxide content, the better the UVA protection.See this write up by a microbiology Ph.D. about why SPF 50 is always preferable to SPF 30.
All that being said, unfortunately I cannot help with the actual formulation. But I wanted to jump in and say how happy I am to see you using 25% Zinc Oxide. Most sunscreens on the market use less than 10-15%. I have had such a hard time finding high concentration Zinc Oxide sunscreens that I eventually switched to chemical (organic) sunscreens. So in my opinion there’s definitely a lack of high Zinc Oxide concentration sunscreens on the market.
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It’s fine. Peptides can denature in low pH environments, therefore the “can’t mix peptides with Vitamin C” rule ONLY applies to Ascorbic Acid, the active, acidic form of Vitamin C. None of the derivatives are acidic. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is oil soluble so it doesn’t even have a pH, technically.
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I’ve used Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate with 165, no problems whatsoever.
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Seconding polymerics as much better alternatives to Xanthan. I love Aristoflex but Sepinov and Sepimax are nice too. Polymerics are far superior because they not only enhance moisturization and elegance, they play a bigger role in stability because they actually emulsify …which Xanthan does not. Xanthan is an ingredient that you tolerate, if you have to. Luckily we do not as there are alternatives that are better in every way..
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Thank you both so much!
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I prefer Propanediol and Butylene Glycol over all of them. And Hyaluronic Acid. Sodiums Lactate and PCA don’t feel as effective to me.
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chemicalmatt said:I can add that the higher MW HYA allows your skin to feel as supple and elastic as a newborn’s. Lower MW? - not so much.
Can you give me a Dalton range for high MW that you’ve had that good experience with? I have 800,000 - 1,000,000 Daltons but now that I read your comment I’m wondering if I should get the 1,000,000 - 1,500,000 Daltons.
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Perry said:@emma1985 - good one. Yeah, I don’t know when new ones were approved either. Of course, these can’t be used in the US so hasn’t had much impact here.
There are lots of Asian sunscreens on Amazon actually..as they’ve become more popular Amazon sellers have started selling them.
I use European exclusively because I trust them much more. I order from Europe. I can never go back to American sunscreens. ????♀️
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The only thing that is truly “anti-aging” is Tretinoin, which is a prescription medication. My opinion.
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I’m not betting on it, as I said I always use GMP but on the off chance that one of my ingredients is contaminated, I like the idea of Euxyl as I do use a lot of botanicals.
I haven’t tested my products because I only make skincare for myself and friends/family, for now. I want to sell in the future which is why I’m researching preservative combinations.
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I’m not sure when the newer generation organic filters were approved in the EU and Asia, but certainly sunscreens containing Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, Tinosorb A2B, Uvinul A Plus and Uvinul T50 outperform sunscreens containing Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Octinoxate, Oxybenzone and Octocrylene. The newer filters are more photostable, less irritating and none are ROS generators afaik, whereas Octocrylene, for example, is. They are also much much more cosmetically elegant. Just my opinion.
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PhilGeis said:Euxyl 9010 (phenoxyethanol) targets Gram negative bacteria - as does Germall. they overlap in efficacy. Are you seeing issues wiuth Gram negative’s?
No, just want to achieve a really robust preservative system. I’m intrigued by Euxyl because it is advertised as being able to kill bacteria in a product that is already contaminated. I use GMP but I do formulate with extracts, hydrosols, etc. Ingredients that can be difficult to preserve. I’m okay with overlap as long as there are no issues.
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Maximum usage rate for Liquid Germall Plus is 0.5%.
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ngarayeva001 said:@emma1985 you can use both at max. These two don’t have same components. You shouldn’t be mixing penonip and euxyl pe9010 at max, as you will go beyond the limit with phenoxyethanol (unless you add less of each and that’s a grey area unless you going to get it through preservative efficacy test) but I am not aware of any reasons why you shouldn’t mix phenonip and germall. Just make sure you add phenonip to heated waterphase and germall to cool down.
Thank you so so much, again! ????
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As a lover of Korean skincare I have used snail extensively (before I started the process of giving up all animal derived ingredients.) It’s … nothing special. It doesn’t hydrate the skin any better than Glycerin or Hyaluronic Acid (if even that much,) and products containing snail secretion in high concentrations, as you might imagine, have (imo) an absolutely disgusting consistency and skinfeel. If you like the idea of applying goopy, sticky snot on your skin, then get yourself a snail serum. Worst offender is CosRx Advanced Snail Essence. It’s disgusting. It also doesn’t absorb and just sits on the skin in a disgusting sticky tacky layer.
I have also used products containing placenta. Again, nothing special.
I did like honey and propolis, but not enough to continue using them. ????♀️
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Aristoflex is my favorite polymeric so far.. I’ve tried Sepimax Zen (too wiggly) and Sepinov.
As for the rest … I think I will always have a soft spot for BTMS50. I love the powdery finish and water resistance. I love it especially for hair and beard products. Only drawback is lack of compatibility with some ingredients.
Right now amongst nonionic emulsifers, I’m really liking Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth 20. Not as bodying as some of the others, so it’s versatile like Glyceryl Stearate and PEG 100 Stearate, but it seems to soap significantly less. It also seems to create particularly white emulsions. I can use it with polymerics and achieve a really fluffy consistency that I love.
Thank you everyone for participating.
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My Korean toner contains extract from salmon sperm. Not joking. INCI is Sodium DNA.
https://www.huffpost.com/entry/salmon-sperm-anti-aging-skin-care_l_5c6591cbe4b0233af972b341
Obviously not why I use it, in addition to the salmon sperm, it contains panthenol, 17 amino acids, 4 peptides and a bunch of other humectants.
Sorry for the triple response.
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The meteorite powder is $185 for 10 g. I feel like you have to be an absolute idiot to buy that. It’s also insoluble.
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Herbivore sells products that contain amethyst. Tacha puts silver and gold in every product. Pixi Beauty used to sell a product containing caviar, a product containing pink quartz and currently sells a product containing Himalayan salt. First Aid Beauty sells a product that lists oxygen as an ingredient.
????????????????
They really think consumers are actual idiots. Some of them are.
Formulator Sample Shop sells meteorite powder, amber extract and foaming extract.
I could go on..