chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Affirmative. When used in o/w emulsions fatty alcohols will retard the foaming often seen. Cetyl alcohol works best for this.
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Answer: not much. CAPB contributes negative conditioning to hair by itself, but it does help to form coacervates with conditioning quats that do condition hair. Polyquaternium-7 comes to mind.
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@Pharma virtually all of the acrylic associative thickeners, Seppimax ZEN and Polyacrylate-6, -11, etc. included, are crosspolymers. They all have crosslinked 3D structures once alkali-swelled in water. Also share nearly zero tolerance for electrolytes as you’ve surmised, and that includes ZEN and don’t get me started on Seppic claims to the contrary. (grrrr..) Your options are then limited as you’ve also surmised, since virtually all HASE thickeners are acrylics, even Polyquaternium -37, and -32. The system you describe is a Pickering emulsion if not mistaken, so why not work with cellulose and its gum blends? Add a little surfactant and you may get where you need to go with electrolytes included.
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Price and availability. The 90% stock is mainly for excipient in pharma,intermediate in specialty synthesis and is far more refined and expensive. Plus the C16/C18 works just fine. The exception is when used in stearyl alcohol/cyclomethicone antiperspirant stick systems. It is referred to as “Deodorant Grade” then when ordering.
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@MarkBroussard I think your addition to the trade lexicon should go viral. “Beegan” got some legs to it, pal. Let’s all start using it.
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That sheds more light on the problem. @ketchito strikes again here: increase the CAPB (30% right) dramatically to where the CAPB solids level is 50% of the anionic level (reduce SLES to keep cost down maybe?) Then, DEL the salt. Add some amine oxide to boost viscosity and foam. Amine oxides are all 30% active and not expensive either. Then, and only then, if you still want some softness to leave behind on skin, add 2.0 - 5.0% PQ-7. It’s inexpensive and as @Abdullah states very compatible in cleansers as long as you have enough amphoteric in there. Look up “coacervation” in the trade chemistry lit and you’ll learn more.
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Thanks for sharing the link here @PhilGeis. Looks like I should have gone into the HRIPT business before now, though I don’t know if I agree with @MarkBroussard. The word “exemption” seems pretty clear, unlike some of this bill’s wording.
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@Graillotion, there you go answering your own questions again, and correctly I might add. Seems to be a thing with you, pal. IPM and IPP are the least expensive esters, and IPM the most versatile including de-oiling and de-greasing haptics. Other esters work better at this and lend nicer sensorials than these two but cost 2 - 4 times more. i.e. my faves C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisostearyl adipate and isononyl isononanoate are superb degreasers and beneficial in other aspects, but all of these are more than twice the price of IPM.
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90% C18 stearate is rarely used, that’s used as an intermediate in synthesis or in pharma. You are fine using the 40/60 stuff. I’ll also add that the classic builder for LGN emulsions is cetearyl alcohol with glyceryl stearate at ratio about 3:1for best results. I personally find using just plain cetyl alcohol with GMS works fine 95% of the time.
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You may be alluding to fragrance fixation synonymous with “extension” here? In that case, triethyl citrate is an excellent fixative as is ethylhexylglycerin. Both are inexpensive and may be readily solubilized in surfactant systems also.
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@sweetflakes, to add to @RobboAU advisement, which is a great idea regarding that Cowles blade, you need to really beat on the silica for a long time in nothing but the first 5 items here. Do not add the pigments and other materials until that has mixed a good two hours at top speed. You should observe the batch start to thicken a little. Mix until it thickens no more at least to your eyes, then add your pigment blend and beat on it another 60 minutes. Finally add the rest. Silicas work great as anhydrous rheology aids but the issue is you cannot always tell when they are fully dispersed. Only time & kinetic energy can assure the outcome in yield value. This depends on the oil blend too. (Never tried this with Versagels before.) Also, phenoxyethanol isn’t needed. No water - no worries.
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Polyglyceride esters are stable at pH 4.0, no problemo. Watch out above pH 12 however.
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@Fekher Castor oil is always tricky due to that lone hydroxyl. You may want to try triethyl citrate to couple with it. TEC is also miscible with D5, albeit very slightly.
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@Herbnerd The usual material to use is an alkaline cleaner such as Alkonox. You can build your own too. However, with all that CaCO3 scale buildup you will need to use an acid cleaner or wash. You might try the passivation method if 304 or 316 stainless is involved: wash out with strong alkaline detergent, rinse, then fill up with dilute acid (nitric or citric), allow to stand 4 hours-plus, then rinse with deionized water.
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Like @ketchito sez: DEL that stearic acid. (Why do so many use this incorrectly?) ADD more Tween 60 (0.5 - 1.0%) and mineral oil (3.0 - 5.0 %) and you’ll have something there at low cost. Thicken with NaCl if needed. BTW, Cetearyl alcohol & Tween (Polysorbate) 60 may be obtained as the legendary combo product “Emulsifying Wax NF” for added cost savings. There are many cheaper clones of this out there too.
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@Graillotion I’m with @Abdullah on this one: use a polyglyceryl ester of fatty acids (PEFA) such as the PG-6 DS he mentions. These are esters so they feel like esters upon application: marvelous, no? Likely need to buddy up with another like glyceryl stearate. As for that alkyl silane ether, it only works as a w/o or w/Si invert emulsifier. Evonik was wasting your time and resources indicating for o/w. Yeesh!
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Best coupler of fragrance oils into silicone gum blends such as this is C12-15 alkyl benzoate, which is miscible with D5 cyclic. Pre-blend then slowly add, should remain clear.
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@niecie2k, be careful where you go with this else you run into patent infringement difficulties and retribution. Personal use? No worries. Sales and distribution? See USPTO 11,337,995 B2 issued to one Matthew Zoeller, whom would be yours truly. Be advised I’ve already formulated a stick-based permutation with Epsom salt at high concentration, and a gel, and a bomb, and a cleanser, and a …you get the picture.
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…what @PhilGeis said…and he should know. I will add here that I’ve been using chloroxylenol (PCMX) to preserve products for years. It does have limitations: odor & solubility; but works very well as broad spectrum at low levels and accepted in all states around the world. Here goes your Hack of the Day: it dissolves in phenoxyethanol, which also boosts PCMX effectiveness. Add enough fragrance and the odor issue resolves too. Phil may weigh in here, but to my knowledge it is somewhat weak with certain Gram Stain negative bacterium? This list is good for nostalgia though: remember when we all used Bronopol to preserve virtually everything? Those were the days, my friend!
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@Stanley, very doubtful PFA would show up as an incidental “cat & dog” ancillary compound in many cosmetic ingredients, given the unique chemistry, so I’d have no problem just saying “No” in an affadavit. But if these peeps need validation, then your upstream ingredient suppliers will need to provide these, just as they have in the past for bovine products, REACH approvals, etc., etc.
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As many CC readers know, my affinity for C12-15 alkyl benzoate has few bounds (Me: “What CAN’T Finsolv TN do, I ask?”). However, this is one where I depart. Having just worked with Myristyl (C14) Lactate for the first time in a skin-care project, I can’t say enough about the unique sensorial attributes. Slippery but not oily; sorta’ “squeaky” but not “filmy” if that makes sense? Why did it take me so many years to discover this gem? Menthyl lactate is the only other lactyl ester I’ve used before, only as a cooling agent. This ester is a really nice find.
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Affirmative, but the EtOH emanates out of the drum altogether, even within a HDPE drum. Be advised this is not a powder you have coming to you but a solution in EtOH, usually 50% solution. I’ve never seen PVP/VA solid state, even though I know it exists. Nobody uses solid state stuff, it being so difficult to dissolve. (PVP K30 or 90 is another story.)
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@mayzel, without concentrations, we cannot be of much help. Sounds like you have too much stearyl alcohol in your formula, but….who knows?