Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Off Topic IPM….is there really any magic here?

  • IPM….is there really any magic here?

    Posted by Graillotion on December 15, 2022 at 12:29 am

    You can’t read a forum/blog where someone isn’t asking how to ‘degrease’ a formula, and in the next breath someone will mention IPM among various solutions.

    So my question is….does IPM have some magical degreasing aspects…or is it simply the fact that as a low cost readily available emollient that does not leave an oily residue…. It works as a functional cascading emollient (since the people that over grease…also under emollient) that gives the perception of less greasy, and helps speed absorption.  I guess what I’m asking…will any light weight emollient of the same caliber, that does not leave a greasy after feel…accomplish the same thing…..OR….. IPM is much better at it…than other similar property emollients?

    I suspect…the answer will be low cost and readily available emollient that helps sensories on formulas likely to not have enough emollients to begin with.

    FYI….when I contribute to questions where people ask how to degrease…hehehe…I start with… ADD LESS GREASE.  :D

    Graillotion replied 1 year, 3 months ago 7 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 15, 2022 at 12:49 am

    One further question…. I typically add it to formulas at 2% towards the overall emollient population.  Will increasing it beyond this level….further enhance its degreasing prowess, or have I gotten all the good out of it….at 2%?  I work under the assumption…that a mix of slightly different (cascading) emollients works better that one huge glob on a single dimension emollient.

    (I realize higher rates can be used…just asking if the (degreasing) effect is compounded with additional IPM?)

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 6:54 pm

    @Graillotion, there you go answering your own questions again, and correctly I might add. Seems to be a thing with you, pal. IPM and IPP are the least expensive esters, and IPM the most versatile including de-oiling and de-greasing haptics.  Other esters work better at this and lend nicer sensorials than these two but cost 2 - 4 times more. i.e. my faves C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisostearyl adipate and isononyl isononanoate are superb degreasers and beneficial in other aspects, but all of these are more than twice the price of IPM.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 7:35 pm

    @Graillotion, there you go answering your own questions again, and correctly I might add. Seems to be a thing with you, pal. IPM and IPP are the least expensive esters, and IPM the most versatile including de-oiling and de-greasing haptics.  Other esters work better at this and lend nicer sensorials than these two but cost 2 - 4 times more. i.e. my faves C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisostearyl adipate and isononyl isononanoate are superb degreasers and beneficial in other aspects, but all of these are more than twice the price of IPM.

    Thank you for your response!  That was the logical answer that I expected, I just don’t have the chemistry skills to see if I was overlooking an aspect.

    Aloha.

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 8:47 pm

    when it comes to not leaving an oily residue, non-volatile alkanes with a low viscosity (isododecane, isohexadecane etc.) and low molecular weight silicones are even better tools for the job, as they hardly interact with the stratum corneum at all, due to being non-polar and therefore immiscible with nearly all of its components

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 7:59 pm

    Thank you @Bill_Toge , this might me right down the alley of what I am looking for…as an emollient that does not irritate…or strip the skin of sebum (in a deo project/remodel).  This sentence really jumped off the page:

    as they hardly interact with the stratum corneum at all, due to being non-polar and therefore immiscible with nearly all of its components

    I have some isododecane on order.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 8:20 pm

    . my faves C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisostearyl adipate and isononyl isononanoate are superb degreasers and beneficial in other aspects, but all of these are more than twice the price of IPM.

    Regarding diisostearyl adipate ….sometime I have difficulty sorting through the synonyms…. are any of these a synonym….and if not…any of them equally delicious?  (Options from my supplier.)

    Diisopropyl Adipate

    Dioctyl Adipate

    Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate

    Diisobutyl Adipate

    Diethyl Adipate

    BTW….I often see the high praise of C-12-15 AB…and have tried it neat a 100 times…and just can’t feel it (the magic)?  Just seems a little oily to me….and even tried two different versions (could be the same) from two different repackers.

    Part of what I look at…is how quick they either absorb or volatalize.  So far I am really liking Ethylhexyl Isononanoate….but you guessed it….can’t find a small MOQ seller! :)

    Dicaprylyl Carbonate…also seem to match up with my target.

    I have 4 more emollients in route…to finally find the magic bullet. Even a .5 cst dimethicone…that is ultra volatile…hehehe…will just have to figure out how to process this in a manner, where some of it is still in the formula by the time the lid goes on the container. 

  • SandalwoodBreeze

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 8:43 pm

    Have you tried LexFeel 7 (Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate) or Cetiol Ultimate (Undecane (and) Tridecane). They seem like they might be what you’re looking for

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 10:33 pm

    Have you tried LexFeel 7 (Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate) or Cetiol Ultimate (Undecane (and) Tridecane). They seem like they might be what you’re looking for

    I have Cetiol Ultimate on order.  However… my goal is to find the magic in an ingredient that is NOT a strong solvent (C. Ultimate).  As this is a deodorant designed for someone with ultra sensitive armpits (me).  My theory is…some of these ingredients are messing up the protective sebum…and I want to try and avoid that…but get all the benefits of Cetiol Ultimate…without the ‘stripping’ aspect.

    I have seen the Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate… but I am preferring to stay with ones that have the potential to ‘evaporate’….granted not all my candidates do this.  It is reasonably priced…so it might fall into my Thai cart. :) 

  • Pharma

    Member
    December 22, 2022 at 5:42 am

    are any of these a synonym….and if not…any of them equally delicious?

    Diisopropyl Adipate

    Dioctyl Adipate

    Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate

    Diisobutyl Adipate

    Diethyl Adipate

    No synonyms.
    Dioctyl adipate might also refer to diethylhexyl adipate… anyway, these options have two shorter alcohol parts sticking out of the two ends of adipic acid. They’re mostly used as solvents or fabric softener. The closest might be Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate but the PPG will have some effect… ask someone who knows the two for the difference.
  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    December 22, 2022 at 7:40 am

    @Graillotion i cant help you with this question you have here, but i just want to say that the level of detail and obsession you have for your deo ingredients makes me feel like when you are finally finished with it, if that day ever comes, there’s no way it does not
    turn out as the world’s best deodorant, hands down.

  • coco

    Member
    December 22, 2022 at 6:27 pm

    @Graillotion, for Isononyl Isononanoate, there is actually a US supplier that does repacking. They will sell you whichever amount you’d like plus repacking fees. AE Chemist or something… based in NJ I believe.

    Then, there’s the Thai website. I absolutely love that ester. Def my favorite lipid! I omitted out of many products because of availability. I wish I knew earlier I could get 1kg here in America. 
  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 22, 2022 at 7:08 pm

    @coco , if you could find me a link to that place…I would greatly appreciate it.
    I did find this place…when I googled it…but it is in California, but also sells II.

    AE Chemie, Inc. – Beauty Expressed Through Nature

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 22, 2022 at 7:10 pm

    @Graillotion i cant help you with this question you have here, but i just want to say that the level of detail and obsession you have for your deo ingredients makes me feel like when you are finally finished with it, if that day ever comes, there’s no way it does not
    turn out as the world’s best deodorant, hands down.

    Sometimes all the effort in the world, does not get you past Perry’s perspective, and sometimes…. you get that little edge…that allows you to just  sit back and smile.  ;) 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 23, 2023 at 4:52 am

    Have you tried LexFeel 7 (Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate) or Cetiol Ultimate (Undecane (and) Tridecane). They seem like they might be what you’re looking for

    Aloha… I did finally acquire the LexFeel 7!

    Absolutely in my top 5 now!

    Cetiol Ultimate…made my armpits feel like a celebrities last drive in a mini-cooper!  Thought I was going to have to check into a burn unit.

    So the members of my top 5 are, somewhat in order:

    Dicaprylyl carbonate

    Ethylhexyl isononanoate

    Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

    A player to be named later  (maybe Lauryl Laurate).

    and

    Isononyl isononanoate

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