Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General GMS 40% vs 90% mono stearte

  • GMS 40% vs 90% mono stearte

    Posted by Abdullah on December 15, 2022 at 2:59 am

    In general, in LGN emulsions which one do you prefer to use as co emulsifier and why?
    GMS with 40% mono stearte or 90%.

    I saw in a post from ulprospector that said 90% mono makes LGN better than cetearyl alcohol but in a book i saw that 40% mono is better and 90% mono is rarely used in cosmetics. 

    Abdullah replied 1 year, 7 months ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 16, 2022 at 6:48 pm

    90% C18 stearate is rarely used, that’s used as an intermediate in synthesis or in pharma. You are fine using the 40/60 stuff. I’ll also add that the classic builder for LGN emulsions is cetearyl alcohol with glyceryl stearate at ratio about 3:1for best results. I personally find using just plain cetyl alcohol with GMS works fine 95% of the time.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    December 17, 2022 at 2:19 am

    90% C18 stearate is rarely used, that’s used as an intermediate in synthesis or in pharma. You are fine using the 40/60 stuff. I’ll also add that the classic builder for LGN emulsions is cetearyl alcohol with glyceryl stearate at ratio about 3:1for best results. I personally find using just plain cetyl alcohol with GMS works fine 95% of the time.

    Can i ask what is the reason that 90% C18 stearate is rarely used in cosmetics? 
    Price or performance?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 6:51 pm

    Price and availability. The 90% stock is mainly for excipient in pharma,intermediate in specialty synthesis and is far more refined and expensive. Plus the C16/C18 works just fine. The exception is when used in stearyl alcohol/cyclomethicone antiperspirant stick systems. It is referred to as “Deodorant Grade” then when ordering.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    December 22, 2022 at 8:44 am

    Price and availability. The 90% stock is mainly for excipient in pharma,intermediate in specialty synthesis and is far more refined and expensive. Plus the C16/C18 works just fine. The exception is when used in stearyl alcohol/cyclomethicone antiperspirant stick systems. It is referred to as “Deodorant Grade” then when ordering.

    A supplier is offering both 40% and 90% mono at the same price. Which one do you suggest should i purchase? 
    40% or 90% mono? 

    I am using it with cetearyl alcohol+SLS+ xanthan gum in lotions. 

Log in to reply.