Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Let’s talk about legal preservatives but are not used

  • Let’s talk about legal preservatives but are not used

    Posted by zetein on December 4, 2022 at 3:17 am
    Skipping HCHO releasers, parabens, isothiazolinones, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, iodo, common organic acids and common cationic stuffs, and we still get:

    Silver citrate
    Climbazole
    Triclocarban
    Piroctone olamine
    Undecylenates
    Bromchlorophen
    Dichlorobenzyl alcohol
    Hexamidine
    Dibromohexamidine
    Dimethyl oxazolidine
    Hydroxyethoxyphenyl butanone
    o-Cymen-5-ol
    5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane
    Bronopol
    o-Phenylphenol
    Triclosan
    7-Ethylbicyclooxazolidine
    Hexetidine
    Sulfites
    Benzonic acid esters
    Propionates
    Salicylates
    Chloroxylenol
    Chlorbutanol
    Formic acid
    Glutaral
    Benzylhemiformal
    Methenamine
    Phenylmercurics
    Silver chloride deposited on titanium dioxide

    Some are commonly used for other purposes, but never for preservation. (anti-dandruff, anti-bacterial, exfoliating)
    Some are totally unheard of for cosmetics… yet they has been in this list for quite long time.
    And there seems to be no intention for caprylhydroamic acid, glycols, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroyacetophenone, tropolone, etc. entering the list.
    I wonder what’s the deal here. Why are they not seen in cosmetics? Why are more commonly stuffs not regulated in this list?
    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 4 months ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 4, 2022 at 6:39 am

    Assume you’re referring to the EU Cosmetic Directive Annex VI type list originally assembled about 50 years ago. 
    The general reason why most of the listed preservatives are not used - they don’t work well as cosmetic preservatives.
    There are few less popular formaldehyde releasers.  Others might have some potential but have drawbacks - too narrow a spectrum, stink, unstable, not soluble, irritants, etc.

    To your question re. those not listed - it would take a ton of money for testing, esp. safety testing, and years in the gears of government/bureaucracy for approval and listing.  Not aware anyone has tried this in the last 30 years.  As preservatives are generally higher-priced ingredients used in very small volumes, their economies do not support such efforts.  To the ones you specified - these are so poor and their volumes so small  I doubt anyone would bother.  

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 5, 2022 at 4:09 pm

    …what @PhilGeis said…and he should know. I will add here that I’ve been using chloroxylenol (PCMX) to preserve products for years. It does have limitations: odor & solubility; but works very well as broad spectrum at low levels and accepted in all states around the world.  Here goes your Hack of the Day: it dissolves in phenoxyethanol, which also boosts PCMX effectiveness. Add enough fragrance and the odor issue resolves too. Phil may weigh in here, but to my knowledge it is somewhat weak with certain Gram Stain negative bacterium?  This list is good for nostalgia though: remember when we all used Bronopol to preserve virtually everything? Those were the days, my friend!

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 5, 2022 at 6:45 pm

    @chemicalmatt
    Bronopol!  Amen brother!

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 6:25 am
    IN old days EDTa+Sod.acid Phosphate+M cresol was great combo.
    @PhilGeis what do you think bout this combo?
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 12:01 pm

    Been in the industry since 1981 - don ;t recall seeing that.  But i was just US back then.  With phosphate  don;t see much need for EDTA.    Know credol was used in insulin

  • zetein

    Member
    December 11, 2022 at 2:44 am
    Hydroxyethoxyphenyl butanone seems to be a relatively new member though, which I haven’t seen in any cosmetic product… The list is still being updated, but in a strange way.
    And despite everything, bronopol is yet not banned, which makes me wonder how “bad” exactly is quaternium-15, a real ban.
  • zetein

    Member
    December 11, 2022 at 2:49 am

    @chemicalmatt i saw PCMX-containing anti-bacterial handwashes (most containing 0.2% PCMX) are still preservated by additional isothiazolinones here… Not sure why.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 11, 2022 at 11:48 am

    @zetein
    Neither Bronopol nor Quat 15 is “bad”.  They (rather consumers) are the  victims of chemophobia.  Quat 15 was never used broadly - color and cost - but found a home in J&J’s baby shampoo until scare mongering  and Chinese extortion forced its removal.

    Think hydroxyethoxyphenyl butanone is a L’Oreal initiative.   A perfume component of limited efficacy with I recall some sensitization potential.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 11, 2022 at 12:53 pm

    Catchy name  - Ethylzingerone

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