Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Sorry, he caught me at a bad moment. I’m getting tired of people who want me to do all their work for them and/or do not have the patience to do any research on their own.
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99.9% of the time, nothing volatile could be considered part of the active ingredient in a surfactant/surfactant blend.
Also, in a typical commercial surfactant, there’s no more than a percent or two of inactive but nonvolatile ingredients.So, %solids is at least a pretty good approximation of what % active you will be working with.Lastly, a SDS is not always the best place to get information on this. Tech Data Sheets and Specification Sheets are much more useful. -
I suppose if it’s made and packed aseptically, preserving the product after its been opened could be seen as being the customers problem.
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If you are not capable of determining this experimentally, you should not be using chemicals to make anything. For your own safety, please buy pre-made products.
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First off, it’s real confusing to mix weights and volumes in a formula. We prefer percentages. Roughly, your formula is:Water 82.67%Sodium Laureth Sulfate 6.89%Sodium Chloride 6.89%glycerin 1.38%propylene Glycol 1.38%Pearlizer 0.69%preservative 0.03%Eucalyptus oil 0.07%The first thing that jumps out at me is that you don’t have enough preservative, unless you are using something truly nasty that shouldn’t be on skin anyway.There’s not enough eucalyptus oil that taking it out will improve your foam much.Sorry, but 6.89% SLS is simply not enough surfactant, particularly since you are only using one.
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Keep adding more SLS until you get the foaming you want. Then add salt to thicken.
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Please start a new discussion for possible answers to your question, wahabness54
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There are a couple of ways to get your mixture to feel less oily:
1) Use less oil. You can do this by including a volatile component, like water, or cyclomethicone.2) Use oil that absorbs into skin/hair, leaving less on the surface3) Use a thickening agent that helps your product feel less oily, like silica -
You could try alcohol…
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I’m perfectly fine if someone says “my customers don’t want to buy anything using parabens” - I’m in that exact situation at work myself - but please, the “parabens are bad” claims have been thoroughly debunked.
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And yet another blow is struck for the anti-science crowd…
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Separating how, exactly?
There’s a continuum of behavior you get from a pressed powder formulation as you increase the pressure and the dwell time, ranging from too soft/bubbled/unable to hold in the pan, to good performance, to too hard/glazes, unable to get product back out of the pressed cake.This must be well-tested in the lab before you go into production.You should know how your powder behaves at a range of psi and dwell times.As you adjust the pressure up, If you don’t get to a good-performing spot, or if your good-performance window is too narrow, you have a formulation problem that needs to be fixed.Can’t really help past this unless you post the entire formula. -
Also you could try Richard Konik or Nick Morante - they’re both on LinkedIn
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That’s probably Crothix http://www.crodapersonalcare.com/home.aspx?view=dtl&d=content&s=157&r=273&p=1859&productName=&inciname=&chemicaltype=&application=&subapplication=&productfunction=&consumerbenefit=&prodID=287
Without the formula, I cant help further. Any reason you can’t just use the Croda material? -
If I was making an anhydrous hair pomade, the primary reason I’d put an emulsifier in the pomade would be to help the pomade wash out.
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Use TiO2 for a white pigment. Search for mascara formulas to get a starting point.
Be aware that a formula like this will not be restricted to the hair follicles - it will color everything it touches. -
If you want to disperse it yourself you need a 3-roll mill or a bead mill.
TiO2 should be available as a pre-ground dispersion in dimethicone. -
Oh, definitely cheaper than a spectrophotometer.
The website says that the paper is UV-reactive:It wouldn’t take much to run a very rough preliminary test, either. Maybe $100 in materials?applicator kit: http://gardco.com/pages/application/dp/sample_ease_system.cfm 3 or 4 commercial sunscreensPaperQuickly draw down all samples. Expose all papers to the sun at the same time. Evaluate results. -
Well, one of the possibilities is to have the customer pay more for an air-tight or mostly air-tight compact. Even a clamshell that seals really well used as primary packaging should help some.
Another possibility is to have the supplier use a less volatile or more of a non-volatile liquid. -
Nope, not wrong at all.
My understanding of the “baked” powder technology is that they’re turning a necessary processing step into a marketing advantage. I don’t know where you’re getting this product from, but it sounds like they have a near-fatal flaw in either their formula or their manufacturing process, or both.I was involved in the development of this type of process many years ago, while I was working for Estee Lauder, and I have a pretty good idea of what’s going wrong. The good news is that there are other companies that have already solved this problem, so you know it’s do-able. The bad news is that it’s probably not a quick fix. -
You’re not missing anything - their are no special conditions to evaluate powder stability with. There are powder-specific quality tests, but they’re just the same for a fresh product as for an old one.
What is happening is that the remaining volatile ingredients are evaporating out of your product. There are enough volatiles in it that their absence is leaving behind a shrunken, cracked, dry product.This is exactly what “baking” is supposed to prevent - there shouldn’t be any volatiles left afterwards. I’d run a water and/or volatile content test to get the exact numbers, but if you don’t have an airtight, easily-sealable component, your customers will see exactly what you’re seeing after a few months. -
If you don’t already know how to formulate colored lip products, you will save yourself massive amounts of time, and probably quite a bit of money, by either using a pre-made base, or consulting with an expert. Otherwise, you can go round and round with a formula for months - a fix for one problem will cause another problem, and then a fix for the second problem will cause a third, and so on, and so on.
@AuroraBorealis also makes a very good point. Most of the people who are good at formulating are not that good at marketing and sales, and vice-versa. That’s primarily because doing either job well takes a great deal of focus and learning, and the skillsets are very different.Here, we are a community of folks who are more focused on formulations, and the science behind them. If that is the way you want to go, I will happily guide you along the way, and show you where to go to get the information you’ll need to solve this problem, and many problems like this in the future. But if you just want to get this one problem fixed, and then be done with formulating, learning that much is not an efficient use of your time.From your questions, it really does sound like you’re focused on the idea that if you can just fix this one little problem, you can go out and sell your lipsticks.I would strongly suggest that if your talents run towards sales, that you get someone else to work on your formulation. I know that your problem is bigger than you think it is - and I’ve spent years working on lip products full time. -
@juliap3, please start a new discussion for answers to your question.
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@EliseCortes, unless you’re committed to using a naturally occurring mix of Kaolin and Iron Oxides, you might get better dispersion and more accurate/consistent color by finding someone who pre-mills synthetic black iron oxide and kaolin together. This would have the added benefit of getting you out of the dubious legal area of possibly not using a FDA approved colorant in your formula.
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@Rosaletta, do you still need this information?