Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Black kaolin

  • belassi

    Member
    July 29, 2015 at 10:05 pm

    Why black?

  • beautynerd

    Member
    July 29, 2015 at 10:48 pm

    Need the spreading abilities of kaolin in our facial masks to even out the locally sourced silt. 

    We found that using all white washed the colour out too much so we have been mixing white and black to get the desired grey tone. 
    I know we could probably get the same effect for cheaper through activated charcoal or iron oxide but was hoping not the mess around with the LOI too much.
    You were already on my mind for the white kaolin ;) Any leads on black? Does this stuff really come from France or is it white with black iron oxide mixed in as you suggested to the person that enquired about red kaolin?
  • belassi

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 12:14 am

    All colours of kaolin are due simply to various other minerals, principally iron. Thus, red kaolin contains red iron oxide (rust) while black kaolin contains a slightly different iron oxide.

    Kaolin comes from all parts of the world. We have a national source here in Mexico but it is found in veins that make its extraction more expensive. The kaolin I have here is sourced in South Kansas I believe and it’s exceptionally fine, very low in free silicates.
  • belassi

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 12:15 am

    By the way. Has anyone tried combining clay with polyvinyl alcohol to get a peel-off clay mask?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 12:56 am

    I have never made one myself but I do recall some starting Formulations using that combination.

  • belassi

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 4:46 am

    Interesting. Since I have such a building-site quantity of clays, I’ll see if I can procure some polyvinyl alcohol. If I can get some, I’ll begin experimenting in the lab. I’m thinking of including some herbal actives such as aloe vera, calendula and centella asiatica. Also a lipid emollient, perhaps.

  • belassi

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 4:48 am

    And maybe licorice. I’ve got to find a use for all that licorice (grin).

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 2:10 pm

    Elise, you have to do this old-school, I’m afraid. Make a list of all cosmetic-grade kaolin suppliers, and start making phone calls or sending emails. Ingredients to Die For has to be getting their bulk supplies from somewhere…

  • DavidW

    Member
    July 31, 2015 at 12:20 am

    Belassi, I’d be interested in something like that for a customer of mine.  I make a few clay masks for them.  Unfortunately not moving to well yet.

     @elisecortes Call Brenntag Specialties and ask for their Vulcanus Kaolin.  It is already gray.  I believe they come in 25K bags.  I have some.  Message me if you need info as I don’t get as much time on the board as I used to.

  • belassi

    Member
    July 31, 2015 at 1:14 am

    I already got a quote, I can buy PVA for around $3.50 a kilo.

  • beautynerd

    Member
    July 31, 2015 at 2:41 am

    @DavidW Will try my luck with Brenntag if not, will start cold calling as @Bobzchemist suggested.

    @Belassi I’m all stocked up on the white kaolin for now but we own a place in Mexico and make it there every winter. Will message you then to see if you have any left. Carrying white powder from Central America back through the border should add some excitement to my life. 
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 31, 2015 at 1:07 pm

    @EliseCortes, unless you’re committed to using a naturally occurring mix of Kaolin and Iron Oxides, you might get better dispersion and more accurate/consistent color by finding someone who pre-mills synthetic black iron oxide and kaolin together. This would have the added benefit of getting you out of the dubious legal area of possibly not using a FDA approved colorant in your formula.

  • beautynerd

    Member
    August 1, 2015 at 2:36 am

    @Bobzchemist hadn’t considered the colourant quandary. Duly noted. Thanks!

  • Chemist77

    Member
    August 1, 2015 at 6:11 am

    @Belassi I tried that combo in my stable PVA mask formula but couldn’t get it right and later on the project was shelved. I would be interested in your results though.
    Make sure enough yield value is present to keep them suspended. Big question???

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