alchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Zinc Oxide will react under both acidic and alkaline conditions. The use of coated versions can limit this a little, but will likely only slow the reaction.
The following is a bit of a simplification but under acidic conditions.
ZnO: + 2H+ -> Zn2+ + H20
Under basic conditions.
ZnO + 2OH- + H2O-> Zn(OH)42-
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From the information provided you cant complete a correct ingredient list. You need to know the % break down of your ingredients.
From memory Olivem 1000 is about 60% Cetearyl Olivate & 40% Sorbitan Olivate. So what you have is
Water qs
Olive Oil 10%
Urea 4% + the bit from your Hydrating Complex
Cetearyl Olivate 1.8%
Sorbitan Olivate 1.2%
Benzyl alcohol <1%
Dehydroacetic acid <1% (Note you need to know the level since it is a restricted ingredient in EU)
Xanthan GumYou still need to figure our where sodium lactate, sodium PCA, glycine, fructose, niacinamide, inositol, sodium benzoate & lactic acid fit in. Rough guess would be that they are all <1% in the final product.
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Sunscreens don’t absorb into the skin (to any significant level) they work in a film on the surface of the skin.
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Over long term storage (years) pH may drift down.
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You’ll need an emulsifier that can cope with high salt content. For these type of products typically Acid Stable GMS (usually glyceryl stearate with PEG-100 Stearate), Polawax GP200 or the phosphate esters are used. Good luck finding ‘natural’ alternatives.
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Hmm Cerasynt IP should be Glycol Stearate and Stearamide AMP. More commonly used as a pearlising agent than an emulsifier.
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Glucuronolactone CAS# 32449-92-6
Gluconolactone CAS# 90-80-2Never heard of Glucuronolactone being used in skincare. Gluconolactone serves as a skin conditioner/exfoliant (hydrolyses to Gluconic Acid) & chelate.
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If your EU PIF is in good shape, then you should be good to go (as long as you dont have any of those ingredients that cause cancer to Californians and require special labeling
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There have been SPF100 products around for years, eg http://www.neutrogena.com/category/sun/spf+100-.do?nType=1
Even before the SPF race in the US (which was about 8 years ago now) there were products that tested up around that level but not claimed - even here in Australia where the limit at the time was 30+
But most markets limit the claim to 50+
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Like most most cosmetic chemistry generalisations the answer is of course yes, no, maybe.
There used to be TVC here for Castrol motor oils which went along the lines of “Oils aint oils..” Well Titanium Dioxide aint titanium dioxide. Certainly untreated TiO2 grades appear to accelerate the photodegradation of Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibezoylmethane). But the surface treated grades & using other formulation tricks probably could minimise this.
http://www.koboproductsinc.com/downloads/nyscc-avobenzone.pdf
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Must be expensive getting hold of the natural Technetium
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Stopping something from growing is a lot different from trying to kill it.
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Standard Glyceryl Monostearate has around 40% of the alpha-monoglyceride and 55% diglyceride with the rest being residual glycerine, mositure, little bit of triglyceride and even smaller amounts of the other possibilities. Higher purity GMS is available, but these are usually purified via molecular distillation.
Melting point and Saponification value will probably give you a good idea of where you’re at. -
Often taken to be 20°C , but in this case RT = ambient (i.e. uncontrolled temperature)?
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At the very least you get certification of what’s not in your fragrance (certified from the supplier) and in some cases it is possible to get full ingredient disclosure from the fragrance house.
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Nope. Too much synthesis going on.
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Whether or not 6 months is too long depends on how confident you are with the stability of your product and how much risk you are willing to take. In some places it would be considered too short.
The practice I’m used too is 3 months stability for launch with a two year shelf life, when you get the 6 month results you can reevaluate the shelf life.
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Shiseido were promoting Piperidine Propionic Acid as an environmental protector
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Why not combine things?
One of the problems in including that many natural ingredients in the one product is determining the safety of the product, especially with so many relatively novel ingredients. -
The product will be just a suspension. The silicones will be very good at keeping water & air out and nothing in there that the ascorbic acid will react with.
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Very simply, if you look at the surface of TiO2 you’ve got a lot of oxygen atoms, that can react with either H+ or OH- . So in a simple aqueous dispersion this means that at low pH the overall charge of the particles are positive, at higher pH the charge will be negative - at a certain pH the charge will be neutral so the particles will coalesce and the dispersion wont be stable. The pH this occurs at is affected by the concentration and also any salts in the dispersion.
In cosmetic products it gets a lot more complicated since the TiO2 is usually coated with Al2O3 and then something else depending whether you want a hydrophobic or hydrophilic grade. -
GMS SE, is usually Glyceryl Stearate and Potassium Stearate, so your emulsion will be anionic. pH should be high too, around 7 to 8 else you’ll just end up with Stearic Acid.
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I think triclosan probably does have issues with its use. I’m not entirely convinced cosmetic use is a major contributor to the problems - it gets used in everything; toothbrushes, plastic containers, pillows, paint, sponges, air filters, water filters, carpets and on and on…
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India had a very complicated regulatory system, lots of issues.
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Anywhere from 3.5 to ~7 depending on your formulation type and active.
