Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating SPF 100 possible or not possible?

  • SPF 100 possible or not possible?

    Posted by jrusso531 on January 30, 2014 at 2:02 pm

    New client wants an SPF100 (international client) marketing has agreed, I have not… am I being ridiculous?

    pma replied 10 years, 3 months ago 6 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • mikebavington

    January 30, 2014 at 2:24 pm

    I did a quick google search. Although I think EWG overstates toxicity concerns of most ingredients, they have uploaded an interesting article on their website. It is worth a read, I think.

    Here is the link:
  • chemicalmatt

    January 30, 2014 at 2:50 pm

    You are not being ridiculous, you are the voice of reason! You should draw them that famous graph that exhibits the SPF value as asymptotic from number 45 onwards!  A picture might be worth a thousand words here.  Also, regardless of chemical sensititvity issues, do you think it is possible for a human test panel to validate that SPF value?  Might be nigh impossible, and certainly VERY expensive.  Good luck.

  • alchemist

    January 30, 2014 at 3:01 pm

    There have been SPF100 products around for years, eg http://www.neutrogena.com/category/sun/spf+100-.do?nType=1

    Even before the SPF race in the US (which was about 8 years ago now) there were products that tested up around that level but not claimed - even here in Australia where the limit at the time was 30+

    But most markets limit the claim to 50+

  • jrusso531

    January 30, 2014 at 3:09 pm

    I’m just worried if I actually give into this project and they send it for testing and it won’t be anywhere near the 100 mark.

  • pma

    January 31, 2014 at 12:47 am

    Totally possible! Specially if the product isn’t for the US market. I’m seeing even SPF 130 sunscreens. But you’ll need high performance filters, like Tinosorb M and S, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150 etc. Basf sells a lot wonderful UV filters. A W/Si emulsion also boosts the SPF a lot!

    With 8% of TiO2, 7% of OMC, 2% TNSB-M, 3% of TNSB-S and 2% of Uvinul-A Plus in a W/Si emulsion you will achieve something near SPF 100. Less (maybe 60) if your emulsion is a traditional O/W emulsion. 
    Too much filters? I don’t think so. 22%, 8% being inorganic… In the US many sunscreens have much more UV filters and offer low SPF’s, since there are just a few (and not so good) filters approved there… 
    Anyway, your formula will be very expensive! 
  • Chemist77

    January 31, 2014 at 1:20 am

    @pma If it is a w/si emulsion then I suppose coated TiO2 has to be used.

  • pma

    January 31, 2014 at 1:42 am

    Milliachemist: yes! 

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