Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating why this is self emulsifier? help~

  • why this is self emulsifier? help~

    Posted by cherri on March 12, 2014 at 9:44 pm

     

     

    thanks in advance for helping me out and reading this post…

     

    glyceryl stearate/ stearic acid/ AMP

     

    so basically looking at above INCI… Why is it possible to think three blend could make a self emulsifier?

    I know Stearic acid and AMP is neutralized… how about glyceryl stearate? why does this blend make it better for doing emulsifying job?

    Is this related to saponification? Also might be a stupid question… how does saponification affect creating formulation? can someone please give

    me an example??

     

    thank you!!

    bobzchemist replied 10 years ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    March 13, 2014 at 6:47 am

    cherri, could you give a link to it as I can’t see the full INCI ?

    What are you looking to make?
  • cherri

    Member
    March 13, 2014 at 8:45 am

    glyceryl stearate/ stearic acid/ AMP

  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    March 13, 2014 at 8:48 am

    sorry Cherri, I don’t have enough info.  Do you have a link to the emulsifier and also what are you looking to make?

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    March 13, 2014 at 9:29 am

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saponification



    What is the brand name and who is the manufacturer of the self-emulsifying blend you’re referring to?
  • cherri

    Member
    March 13, 2014 at 9:51 am

    CERASYNT IP by ISP but this one has the following INCI glycol stearate, stearic acid, and AMP.

    My question is if it’s not glycol stearate and glyceryl instead would it make a better emulsifier?

    thank you all~

  • alchemist

    Member
    March 14, 2014 at 7:40 am

    Hmm Cerasynt IP should be Glycol Stearate and Stearamide AMP.  More commonly used as a pearlising agent than an emulsifier. 

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    March 14, 2014 at 10:20 am

    Stearic acid by itself is a thickening/bodying agent in emulsions. It’s not a very good one, but it was widely used because it used to be so very cheap (it was made from byproducts of the meat packing industry, so the starting feedstock was essentially garbage). Now that the cosmetic grades are all made from vegetable feedstock, the price has gone up exponentially. For some reason, consumers have gotten used to the feel of it in emulsions, so it is still formulated with.

    By itself, stearic acid has ZERO emulsifying power. When it is neutralized into a soap, however, it becomes a surfactant/emulsifier. The neutralizing agent can be AMP, TEA, Potassium or Sodium Hydroxide, etc.
    Neither glycol stearate nor glyceryl stearate are emulsifiers at all.

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