Trytryagain
Forum Replies Created
-
Is this the way the label reads, verbatim? If yes, then I would be suspicious of this brand since they aren’t even using proper inci names, for one. There are multiple issues with this label.
Does this peel off clean, like the sodium alginate masks? I’m curious if the “sodium salt powder” should be sodium alginate. Sodium alginate paired with potassium bicarbonate (or other things like calcium carbonate) are commonly used as the gelling agents in the peel off masks.
Hyaluronic acid gels water but not enough to get that clean peel off like the sodium alginate does.
-
This is one of the most annoying topics I see repeated! The “EuRope BanS over 1000 iNgreDients” arguments from the granola zealots. They often proceed to recommend the EWG or the YUKA app as a beacon of truth 🤣
You might want to permanently stay out of the beginners group as they have devolved into that literal topic, recently, of singing the praises of YUKA. I don’t even dare to chime in, it’s like an army of granola robots or something all echoing the same thing to each other. The only reason I don’t leave the group is so I can have access to your previous trail of breadcrumbs for reference.
-
Here you go, ships from UK, only 1 in stock.
https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=31726496176&dest=usa
abebooks.com
ISBN: 9781932633320 - Hardcover - Allured Pub Corp - 2008 - Condition: Like New - Like New - Organic Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists
-
This is a very interesting point to consider that has not had a lot of attention, as far as I have seen. Thank you for the information.
-
1. What would be a good starting percentage for vitamin c in an eye cream? Like 7% or less
The skin around the eyes is thinner and more sensitive than other areas on the face, personally I would keep the LAA 5-7%
2. Tips on dissolving ascorbic acid? Should I use glycerin or what would you recommend?
It’s water soluble, you could use a portion of water from phase A to dissolve in and add at cool down
3. I don’t have ferulic acid, how can I make the vitamin c as stable as possible?
If you really can’t get Ferulic Acid, you should add mixed tocopherols as well. Research other antioxidants that can replace the ferulic acid. Also you could reduce water content by adding in solvents like glycols
4. What should the pH be for the vitamin c to work best? When using LAA 3.5 (check for conflicts with your other ingredients)
5. Since I’m using mineral oil to lock in hydration, should I get rid of the dimethicone? I’m a huge fan of silicones, I almost never leave them out (for sensory appeal)
-
and btw the only reason I asked if this is an emulsion for skin or hair conditioner is because I would never have guessed that @graillotion would like the skin feel/ haptics of a cationic emulsion ????
-
If you like the skin feel (or is this hair conditioner?) of the conditioning aspect the cationics give, I have used cationic guar with BTMS50 and it was nice, no stability issues. Also HEC is non ionic.
-
That’s pretty funny, I missed that one ????
The worst one I saw, which I WISH I would have missed - the one wondering if she should start making a vulva balm ???? ???? it was posted before February though
-
I work with this emulsifier and I really like it. Have not had any stability issues, used in a cream facial cleanser and body lotion.
-
Thank you so much for your reply. Yes, I think I will disregard this person’s advice moving forward. I was being optimistic, I guess! ????
-
I have noticed Phenylpropanol (70%) and ethylhexylglycerin (30%) used in some “clean” cleansers lately. I’m sure the ingredient terrorists will eventually have a problem with this too, and will ban all ingredients containing “eth”. EWG likes Phenylpropanol for now, it’s a “1” *eyeroll*
Big retailers like Sephora are now listing phenoxyethanol as a restricted (not entirely banned but the damage is done) ingredient for their “clean at sephora” brands, and I think a lot of the blame for the fearmongering falls on these retailers. EWG too, of course. EWG gets the ball rolling, then the big retailers run with it.
-
Thank you, registered.✅
-
I doubt I am aware of any resource that you have not already discovered, but Ecowell did get this conversation going here:
https://www.theecowell.com/blog/a-case-against-the-ewg
theecowell.com
A Case Against the EWG — The Eco Well
Misinformation - one of the biggest challenges I see in the cosmetic space today. There’s so much fear and mistrust, I find this is seriously stunting our ability as an industry to do better. Instead, we’re bending to the fear-mongering … Continue reading
-
I wish someone would. The problem would be getting the word out, all the way down the information pipeline to where it matters most I think, the consumer. I have started to wonder, over the last couple of years, if some of the negative influence and vilifying of entire ingredient groups is coming from (in addition to EWG) Cosmos and Ecocert. You know the newest free from claim I saw this weekend? NO GLYCOLS. It never ends. I am customer facing, I sell in person every weekend. Every weekend it never fails, I have multiple customers asking is this product “clean”, or natural, or chemical free, or no synthetic fragrance, or natural only etc. They bring this up unprovoked, it has been ingrained into the psyche of the consumer. It’s depressing. I love my customers, but I don’t want to formulate with only twigs and berries.
Back to Cosmos and Ecocert, say they ban an ingredient, then a retailer in the US thinks it will help them differentiate themselves follow Ecocert and bans said ingredient, then markets to consumers and brands “we are banning said ingredient”. Then brands must accommodate the retailer if they want to be on the shelf, so brand X bans the ingredient, and markets to consumers “we are banning said ingredient”. Now consumer consumed the marketing from retailer level and brand level, and thinks they have to look for skin care that’s free from said ingredient.
It is a dilemma, and I don’t know the answer, but getting the word out to consumers would be a big part of solving it. Having a source to refer to that explains the motivation behind some of these ingredient terrorist organizations would be helpful. But what a massive undertaking.
-
Haha I was excited to see this post, and went straight for the INCI. I thought hmm, “organic stabilizer”. What in the world? I haven’t heard of that before. But I’m newer here.
Glad to see I wasn’t the only one who hadn’t heard of “organic stabilizer”. ????
I mean, it seems like some brands will not only leave ingredients off completely, but they make up new words too.
-
Lol, you are right of course, must be great marketing. Because the ingredients are not impressive 😁
-
Thank you for your response!
That helps me a lot. It is amazing the lengths some brands will go to in order to appeal to the ewg and Yuka followers 😂
And the product has thousands of glowing reviews on Amazon, of course, those might be fake as well haha
-
Thank you for the response! I am glad to hear that someone else is suspecting an inaccurate inci besides me. The brand is small but sells a lot of product on Amazon.
I spent a lot of time trying to make sense of this label. 😁
-
Sure, It’s the Hyaluronic Acid Face Cream by Beauty by Earth. It’s popular on Amazon.
-
Both, adds to the conditioning feel and gels water phase.
-
There is not necessarily a set point at which you cannot increase an emulsifier percentage to in an emulsion, and every emulsifier is going to have different usage rates. But most of the time I have noticed that increasing the emulsifier percentage too much may at the very least result in reduced sensory appeal in one way or another (increased soaping or microfoam issues, or greasiness, tackiness, pilling etc) . The goal of an emulsion I think, is to find the lowest possible percentage of emulsifier that can be used without jeopardizing stability.
Before I decide to increase an emulsifier percentage, I look at other components in the formula that could be adjusted to improve stability (reduced oil phase, consider adjusting co emulsifiers, rheology modifiers etc). This probably goes without saying (but in case you are new I will say it anyway) you can minimize your chances of stability issues with extremely thorough research on the emulsifiers before you begin experimenting, check manufacturer suggested usage rates, see how manufacturers are using the emulsifier if they are providing sample formulas on UL Prospector or their own website. Making sure you have no compatibility issues, ie not using cationics with anionics, are your emulsifiers sensitive to pH, what is the electrolyte load of the formula vs the electrolyte tolerance of the emulsifiers etc.
Happy formulating.
-
Nice! I hope you find the perfect water gelling agent to solve the issue.
-
Hehehe…???? yes the repackers will be thrilled to help with that
-
Dr Phil Geis wrote the book on Cosmetic Microbiology, literally. If he is skeptical of supposed preservative in an inci, there is definitely a good reason. If pine bark worked as an effective preservative, I think Proctor and Gamble would’ve bought it all up and you would see it in INCI’s all over the big box store shelves.
-
love it ????