

RDKOXYNERGY
Forum Replies Created
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We use caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside but it is producing foam so for lotion during filling process it is quite problematic and PolySugaMulse D9 is not registered in China unfortunately so we are trying some others.
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Super thank you for your advice!
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Have you observe any discolouration over time? have you used it by chance in products with pH between 4 and 5 like toner with AHA?
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RDKOXYNERGY
MemberJanuary 26, 2021 at 12:17 pm in reply to: Polysorbate 20 vs Polysorbate 80: Use for aqueous formulas with essential oilsI try to replace polysorbate-80 are not very stable over time the product becomes yellow after 6 months
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Abil are excellent for Water in Oil, I use only these. You can even make water Drop creams with up to 90% water.
But add 3% isohexadecane… it gives very good stability to water in Oil emulsions.
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RDKOXYNERGY
MemberNovember 2, 2018 at 9:33 pm in reply to: Retinol/Retinyl Palmitate - solubility, dissolving issuesI guess it is your retinol the issue. I use a lot retinol even in High concentration. I Buy from BASF (50% retinol in polyglycol + BHT + BHA)
it disolve without heating in ethanol easy.
You have it also at 10% in soybean Oil.
You can also disolve in polyglycol and some oils. After you have to work out the stability of your retinol in your formula… Because it is not very table in ethanol over time. -
You can use sepimax zen to thicken formula with acids and salts. It works at very low pH. You can make a clear gel.
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I don’t think the crystalization is from lactic acid sodium lactate. As they are highly soluble. Do you put any other acids? Would be good to know all ingredients.
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RDKOXYNERGY
MemberOctober 28, 2017 at 4:34 pm in reply to: Amy limit to how much Retinol can be used?Yes 3% it is the level of a retinol peel you will have severe side effects. I also think 0.25 is more than enough in a product for daily basis.
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I guess also with only 1% salicylic you can reduce ethanol. 35 is too much. I guess with 15% it will be enough. If you add butylene glycol it will also helps to solubilize your salicylic acid.
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Add bit butylene glycol or propylene glycol. You have also some water soluble silicones thar remive sticky after feel. You can also add bit of hyaluronic acid.
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Maybe if it is not clear it is because of other component like perfume or preservative. You should check you ratio of products to solubilize and P80.
And maybe add P80 till formulation is clear. But it p80 will give bit yellow color to your formulation if you put too much. -
RDKOXYNERGY
MemberOctober 28, 2017 at 4:20 pm in reply to: How to determine how much Emulsifier you need?You should try abil xl 180 and add isohexadecane. It will give you extreme stability in w/o cream. You can highly reduce the oil content around 20% and even not use any wax and make the emulsion at room temperature.
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Hi friends, i saw a product on the market called PRX-T33 they claim it contains 33% TCA with hydrogen peroxyde and 5% kojic acid. People say it is a very soft peel not producing exfoliation giving incredible results, as usually TCA produces protein precipitation and is very aggressive….
so i guess the H2O2 neutralizes the TCA or maybe turns it to acetic acid?
my education is not organic chemistry i have ideas but if someone could confirm me the result of this reaction i am curious to understand this product and quite surprised of the fact they mix a chlorure acid with oxygen peroxide.
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Well john sorry i saw this group name CHEMIST CORNER not COSMETIC CORNER.
Anyway i just found solution so it´s ok. If anyone have issue just let me know i will share with pleasure. Even if you plan to use azelaic in small proportions.
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But this is not the issue. I look for solution on azelaic acid. If you have experience with this acid as I don´t have then your advices are more than welcome.
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Phytic acid is mainly to inactivate tyrosinase and exfoliate, when i refer to phenol peel i refer to baker gordon formula and phenol. Resorcinol does not have the same effects on the skin even if i agree it is very irritating but this is a medical device not a cosmetic.
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This is the formula of a product already on the market to treat melasma.
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Thank you mark, i guess i will try with transcutol CG (ethoxydiglycol) but i guess these brands are not indicating a real formula on the box i see no other solution. As i tried in any proportions my peel precipitate and not their peel at 5ºC.
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These peels are used by doctors only and classidied as MD so we don´t put them in every hands.
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Worst case senario is hyperpigmentation if applied to high phototypes and not combined with SPF and post retinol treatment.
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These kind of acids even formulated in high concentrations have a very limited risk on the skin and are superficial.,
We are not in the field of TCA peels, phenol peel etc. -
Phd in chemical engineering and formulation, 15 years experience in skin care and injectable formulation (pierre fabre etc.) -))