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Formulation of chemical peels
Hi,
i am working on medical peels for customers using different acids etc.
i have some issues regarding peels when i use azelaic acid.I have to keep the solution stable even at low temperature and avoid crystalization.
There are peels on the market that are stable with formula consist in the following:
Alcohol??? must be between 58 to 48%
Azelaic acid 20%
Resorcinol 10%
Water ??? but between 6 to 10% as per box
Phytic acid 6%
Propylene glycol ??? less than 6% as per boxI turned this formula in all ways and i always have crystallization.
If i make the mix without azelaic acid even in fridge no precipitation.
If i mix Azelaic acid with alcohol 1/3 only in fridge i have precipitation.
If i mix Azelaic acid with alcohol and water in fridge i have even more precipitation. I made this test i was suspection esterification of azelaic acid with alcoohol.
And in this formula there is no base or neutralizer, as adding a base like ammonium hydroxide and rising up pH would form salt and avoid maybe precipitation.
I would appreciate some comments.
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17 Replies
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This might help you: https://www.google.com/patents/US5925679
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Can you tell us something of your background and experience? The reason I ask is that chemical peels have the potential of causing much damage when wrongly used (and even when not wrongly used if they are badly formulated).
From the way I read your post, I don’t think I would be happy giving any advice or recommendations.
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Phd in chemical engineering and formulation, 15 years experience in skin care and injectable formulation (pierre fabre etc.) -))
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These kind of acids even formulated in high concentrations have a very limited risk on the skin and are superficial.,
We are not in the field of TCA peels, phenol peel etc. -
Worst case senario is hyperpigmentation if applied to high phototypes and not combined with SPF and post retinol treatment.
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These peels are used by doctors only and classidied as MD so we don´t put them in every hands.
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Thank you mark, i guess i will try with transcutol CG (ethoxydiglycol) but i guess these brands are not indicating a real formula on the box i see no other solution. As i tried in any proportions my peel precipitate and not their peel at 5ºC.
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You say you are not in the field of phenol peels but you are putting 10% resorcinol (a phenol) together with 20% azelaic acid into your projected product.
What is the function of the phytic acid in the mix?
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This is the formula of a product already on the market to treat melasma.
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Phytic acid is mainly to inactivate tyrosinase and exfoliate, when i refer to phenol peel i refer to baker gordon formula and phenol. Resorcinol does not have the same effects on the skin even if i agree it is very irritating but this is a medical device not a cosmetic.
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But this is not the issue. I look for solution on azelaic acid. If you have experience with this acid as I don´t have then your advices are more than welcome.
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The key word in your latest reply is “treat”. By using this word, it puts the product out of the definition of cosmetic and into being a medicinal product which is outside the scope of this group.
Article 2 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No.
1223/2009) incorporates the following definition of a cosmetic product:A “cosmetic product” shall mean any substance or
mixture intended to be placed in contact with the various external
parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and
external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of
the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them,
perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours
and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.Directive 2001/83/EEC defines a medicinal product as:
“(a) Any substance or combination of substances presented as having
properties for treating or preventing disease in human beings; or(b) Any substance or combination of substances which may be used in
or administered to human beings either with a view to restoring,
correcting or modifying physiological functions by exerting a
pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action, or to making a
medical diagnosis.”Similar definitions apply in most jurisdictions.
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You might also give dimethyl isosorbide a shot.
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Well john sorry i saw this group name CHEMIST CORNER not COSMETIC CORNER.
Anyway i just found solution so it´s ok. If anyone have issue just let me know i will share with pleasure. Even if you plan to use azelaic in small proportions.
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Well john sorry i saw this group name CHEMIST CORNER not COSMETIC CORNER.
If you check the fuller title of the group you will see
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@RDKOXYNERGY - While the main expertise on this forum is cosmetics, it really is for any type of formulator. Please don’t be discouraged & thanks for your contribution.
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Hi friends, i saw a product on the market called PRX-T33 they claim it contains 33% TCA with hydrogen peroxyde and 5% kojic acid. People say it is a very soft peel not producing exfoliation giving incredible results, as usually TCA produces protein precipitation and is very aggressive….
so i guess the H2O2 neutralizes the TCA or maybe turns it to acetic acid?
my education is not organic chemistry i have ideas but if someone could confirm me the result of this reaction i am curious to understand this product and quite surprised of the fact they mix a chlorure acid with oxygen peroxide.
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