Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Amy limit to how much Retinol can be used?

  • Amy limit to how much Retinol can be used?

    Posted by DavidW on October 25, 2017 at 7:11 pm

    Does anyone know if in the USA there is a limit set forth by the FDA as to how much retinol (not palmitate or any other form) can be used in a topical cosmetic (not OTC) skin product?  Can a product contain 3%?

    Zink replied 6 years, 6 months ago 8 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 25, 2017 at 8:41 pm

    I don’t know of any limit except for use during pregnancy but 3% is very high and unnecessary .You are likely to get adverse reactions such as stinging/redness and doubt you would pass RIPT safety test.We have used it up to 0.3%  which is borderline for sting etc, although I have seen it used up to 0.5-1%.

  • DavidW

    Member
    October 26, 2017 at 1:55 am

    Thanks DrBob, I appreciate your input

  • Lainee

    Member
    October 27, 2017 at 7:51 am

    If you’re just using retinol for marketing purposes, 0.2-0.5% is enough. If not, you can use it up to 1% only. 

  • RDKOXYNERGY

    Member
    October 28, 2017 at 4:34 pm

    Yes 3% it is the level of a retinol peel you will have severe side effects. I also think 0.25 is more than enough in a product for daily basis.

  • domy

    Member
    October 28, 2017 at 6:50 pm

    You can’t use 1% retinol in formula. Is to much.
    The SCCS has estimated that exposure to Vitamin A (retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl acetate): 
    - via hand cream at the maximum concentration of 0.3% may lead to daily systemic
    dose of 1661 IU for an adult. This exposure could constitute up to 33% of the UL of
    5000 IU/day of Vitamin A. Therefore, the SCCS considers that the use of Vitamin A in
    hand cream products per se is safe.

    - via face cream at the maximum concentration of 0.3% may lead to daily systemic dose of 1185 IU for an adult. This exposure could constitute up to 24% of the UL of 5000 IU/day of Vitamin A. Therefore, the SCCS considers that the use of Vitamin A in face cream products per se is safe. 
    - via rinse-off products at the maximum concentration of 0.3% may lead to a daily systemic dose of 408 IU for an adult. This exposure could constitute up to 8.8% of the UL of 5000 IU/day of Vitamin A. Therefore, the SCCS considers that the use of Vitamin A in rinse-off products per se is safe.
  • DAS

    Member
    October 29, 2017 at 6:04 am

    The max I’ve seen on a leave on formula is 600.000 IU, more than that might be a prescription cream for specific purposes.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 30, 2017 at 2:27 am

    Here is what the CIR has to say about Retinol (and Retinyl Palmitate).  Basically, it’s safe to use <1%.

    https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr160.pdf

  • DavidW

    Member
    October 30, 2017 at 11:13 am

    @PerryCan you copy and paste what you found.  I can’t see the article because I am not signed up with the.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 30, 2017 at 12:39 pm
  • DavidW

    Member
    October 30, 2017 at 1:06 pm

    Great, thank you Perry

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 30, 2017 at 3:20 pm

    @Perry  Good post as I was looking for it but couldn’t find it.

  • DavidW

    Member
    November 1, 2017 at 7:49 pm

    Now I come to find out the customer wants 3% “retinol or retinoid complex”.  Not straight retinol.  Now the fun begins trying to find out exactly what retinoid or retinol complex means.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 2, 2017 at 1:20 pm

    Using clever marketing, “retinol complex” could be anything you want.

  • DavidW

    Member
    November 2, 2017 at 3:15 pm

    In case anyone runs into the same thing I have found a product by Wacker called “Cavamax W-8 Retinol Complex”.

    Some companies with a “complex” are actually using Retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate combination.  Others may be using a Retinol 10S at 3% but that’s not really “active” amount.

    Skinmedica has a product they call “Retinol Complex 1.0”  IS that the percentage or merely a part of the name?  Ahh, have to love marketing.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    November 2, 2017 at 11:46 pm

    If your customer will accept 3 percent of retinol complex,Cavamax W 8 is 8 percent of active retinol in cyclodextrin. Sooo 3 percent of the complex provides 0.24 percent which is an effective level.We have used the product but did not do hydrolytic stability which is a concern but CD complex should help.

  • DavidW

    Member
    November 6, 2017 at 3:09 pm

    Thanks DrBob.  My customer did agree to use 3% of the complex itself.  This is the best resolution as it greatly reduces the safety concern.

  • Zink

    Member
    November 6, 2017 at 5:51 pm

    It should be noted that some dermatologists and estheticians use 5-10% Retinol for peels, basically to get peeling effects and the effects or regular retinol use with less frequent applications. So depends who your customer is selling to.

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