Paprik
Forum Replies Created
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Totally agree with @Onur .
Tretinoin is a prescription drug. You shouldn’t be really asking here.To the best of my knowledge it is hard to stabilise it. Reacts with light, oxygen, pH requirements, storage, ….
Not sure if you have ever used products like this in the past (Retrieve) but it is quite irritating.
Better just ask you GP for a prescription if you insist on Tretinoic acid (like I do).
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Remove EDTA.
There is a lot of heavy oils (Argan, Castor) and extras (Panthenol, Oat extract, Silk). That is why.
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1. Remove chelating agent! It is anionic and will bind with your cationic surfactant. => insoluble substances / instability.
2. Is it just for you? I assume you have short hair? Conditioners are being applied to the lengths and ends, not to the scalp.
3. Euxyl PE 9010 is relatively easy to work with - as this is emulsion, you can add anytime. It is heat stable (up to 120° if I remember correctly), so can be added into water phase or mix properly during/after cooldown phase.
4. You may want to support this preservative with something against mold/yeast.
5. final pH 4 - 4.5
6. Listen to Phil!
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Please write your full formula .. with % inputs if possible.
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Skin Essence is a marketing term. You can call your product whatever you want.
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Hi,
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) is great for surfactant systems. It actually boost and stabilises the foam. Proper processing method is important.
Good luck!
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It looks like you want to solubilise the lipid? Not really create an emulsion?
If so, you would need to premix your essential oils in isapropanol and after mix into water.
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It is a lot … that is how I would describe it.
Take it easy and reduce and/or remove some ingredients.
My guess would be hyaluronic acid. If you are using HMW, 2% is a LOT. It basically dries and turn into flakes. If you are using good grade of Xanthan Gum I would say 0.3% is not a lot. If you are using some cheap slimy snotty grade it might not be helpful.
2% Panthenol - again, too much. It might also feel sticky.
If you calculate the phases, you have around ~56% water left. Try to aim higher.
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Hi,
1) Acetate form is not that effective. Check this forum, you will find others talking about it.
2) As Ketchito said, you also want to protect the product from oxidation = Mixed/d-alpha tocopherol. NOT acetate. That will protect your formula and also skin.
Polysugamulse D9 is natural, even COSMOS suitable. You cannot go better than that if that what you/your customers care about.
You could also use Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside?
If you want I can send you some slides with natural solubilisers. Send me DM.
As long as your solution stays clean/transparent, you have enough solubiliser and can add continuously.
Again, as suggested by Ketchito, try combine some and see how it goes.
Good luck.
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First of all, do not use Acetate form. It will not help to protect formula and will not do much on the skin either. Use normal Tocopherols - I love mixed tocopherols.
That said, how do you incorporate it? Do you pre-mix the tocopherol with solubiliser first? And add slowly into the water phase under stirring waiting the solution to become clean after each addition?
I believe there is somewhere patented formula (that lose its patent already so it can be found and used) for this kind of Vitamin C serum. Search this forum for it. This might give you an idea about the inputs.
*** I would aim for ratio 5 : 1 as Solubiliser : Vit E. Maybe even 10 : 1 depending on the solubiliser. ***
If I remember correct everyone seems to like Polysugamulse D9
Hope this helps 🙂
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That certainly does not look right.
I would maybe increase Polysorbate to oil ratio to 2:1 or 3:1, even up to 5:1 and see.
Also, check your method. You cannot dump all solubilised lipid into the water phase right away.
Do you have overhead mixer? If so, mix with propeller, does not need to be vigorous mixing but must be good turnaround of solution. After, in small additions, add solubilised lipid and mix until solution becomes transparent again.
You see after each addition the solution might become a bit cloudy but that should clear quickly. If not, you do not have enough solubiliser for the lipid. Each lipid needs a different ratio. However Polysorbate 20 is a very good solubiliser.
Hope this helps 🙂 Good luck!
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Even the Kojic acid will probably interfere .. what is the final pH? Most of the Carbomers require pH ~7.
Not sure what actives you’re using, .. they might be also electrolytes.
It also looks like it might feel sticky? 7% Glycerin is a lot. Plus 1% Panthenol.
I would re-think the whole formula.
Start with just water and XG / Siligel & humectant, add enough to get desired viscosity.
After start adding other ingredients and actives and see if that caused any instability/reducing viscosity.
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Well, you kind of pointed out the possible culprits … so have you tried it without them?
Knock them out and see how it performs.
You might need to reduce the dye input if it stains. Not really sure about your aloe vera source.
Plus your preservation is not great, so it might be microbial growth causing the smell.
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Depends, but …
Sometimes we use a little bit of low HLB emulsifier in O/W emulsion, but I wouldn’t use oil compatible rheology modifier.
So ok to use beeswax in small input, but I would not use trihydroxystearine. You want to gel the water phase so it holds oil droplets suspended.
Again, it all depends on the formula etc …
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I am with Matt. I heat all surfactants to dissolve them and once clear and warm/hot I add PEG 150 Disterate. Easy. 🙂
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HEC nor Sodium Hyaluronate do not have great suspending properties. It might work in emulsion, but for “heavy” beads/exfoliating particles it won’t suffice long term.
Better to go with a good grade of Xanthan Gum or similar or as suggested by @ketchito carbomers.
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I would remove all the heavy lipids or have them at 0.1% for marketing (Such as Argan oil). Use Dimethicone at 2% Dimethicone and see how it goes. You can also lower all those actives.
What is your preservative?
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Hi @Camel
1) Yes, in non-ionic or anionic systems chelating agent support the preservative. So use it as often as possible (mind ingredient that cannot be used with it - such as copper peptides etc … )
2) I see … that makes sense then.
3) Yes, you do not need use glycerin/propanediol. For solubility at least. The product should be thick enough to hold the Euxyl dispersed (if not all dissolved). Starting with basic emulsion is the best approach. Usually formulators start with a looot of ingredients and fail.
4) I would use something like Liquid Germal Plus. Or add something that helps Euxyl with its weakness against fungi/mold. I am not really preservative guy; @PhilGeis is the God.
Your emulsion is already nice, simple, easy. Try it and see. You may need to increase waxy material to build viscosity. You can add a bit of protein; fragrance if desired and you should be fine.
Hope this helps 🙂 Happy formulating.
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I (or we) have noticed that too. My guess would be it is part of a blend material, so they need to list it. I would maybe understand if it is solid bar product, but in emulsion not so much.
From chemical point of view it does not make sense to add that.
Unless someone thinks/knows otherwise.
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I believe DrWrinkle understood that the shampoo should thicken the hair 😀
Not that Sara is seeking advise how to thicken the shampoo.
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Ok, still not the best answer as I don’t know how much SLES (and other ingredients) you are adding, but I will try to answer.
I will take Betaine as Betaine, not Cocamidopropyl Betaine? If so, you definitely can add that, it is amphoteric, adds mildness to the product and boosts the foam. You could also add some superfatting agent/non-ionic surfactant. Again, not sure what “amide” you’re using.
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Even with LMW HA stick with 0.x% .. if you put a lot of HA, it might draw moisture from the skin and evaporate from the surface = drier skin.
If 10% Squalene is ok for you, I don’t see a reason why not. Drier skin types will appreciate that.
Happy formulating!
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You can also spray some alcohol over it and it will kill the foam.
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If you stay long enough around here, you will learn that nothing is really “broad spectrum” and it is sort of marketing term. Euxyl PE 9010 might probably work in anionic surfactant systems, but not really in emulsions.
Preservative blends, supportive ingredients (such as chelating agent, humectants [1.2 Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, …] and low pH will help.