Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Retinol and actives (peptides) in waxy stick products


  • Retinol and actives (peptides) in waxy stick products

    Posted by Paprik on March 3, 2024 at 7:31 pm

    Hi all,

    I am currently looking into products such as “Retinol Eye Stick” and am wondering how they manufacture those? Looking at the ingredients list it is “standard waxy solid stick” with some oils and actives. However, Retinol is heat sensitive, so I am not really sure how they incorporate it? They even use peptides …

    Perry44 replied 1 month, 2 weeks ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • evchem2

    March 4, 2024 at 7:57 am

    Is this from an indie brand or a large multinational? Do they make any claims about efficacy/ skin improvement? What I’m getting at is just because they put it in the formula does not mean they ensured retinol stability/performance

  • Paprik

    March 5, 2024 at 11:44 am

    For example Sephora sells it .. but there are many brands having this product.

    So I am wondering how they incorporate retinol or actives/peptides into hot melted wax.

    Is it right above the setting point of the molten phase or am I missing something?

  • Rockstargirl

    March 5, 2024 at 6:33 pm

    I’d be interested how you get peptides into wax as well. Or an anhydrous product.

  • Paprik

    March 5, 2024 at 7:23 pm

    I usually do not like tagging, but @Perry44 , would you have any idea? 🙂

    • Perry44

      March 6, 2024 at 2:15 pm

      They most likely use encapsulation for the retinol. Then just put it in the wax. Since consumers really can’t tell if it works or not, it’s just a claims ingredient.

  • Onur

    March 5, 2024 at 9:24 pm

    It could be with the help of polymers, e.g Sepiplus 400 and esters/emollients. Wax-blends are not all stone-solid in a minute, some get viscosity over a longer period of time, you can incorporate heat-sensitive ingredients at this point (at around 40°C) and try high shear stirring. The cleansing balm I made with Cetearyl Alcohol + Stearic acid + IPM + Rice bran wax needed around 30min to get solid and it was still like a pudding at 35°C.

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