[Paprik]

Nope, I think you don’t solubilize it in hot water, maybe only disperse? (I’d watch the temperature also, as vit. E is heat sensitive and oxidizes when exposed to high temperatures). Use something like Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside or so. 

[Paprik]

Yes, you would need to solubilize the Vit E first. 

[Paprik]

Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost. 

However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier? 

[Paprik]

It’s a good practice to also include some stabilizing agent - gum/polymer.
So basically 🙂
Water (solvent), some humectant, water compatible gum/polymer, primary emulsifier (an anionic, waxy), co-emulsifier (non-ionic, high HLB, waxy blended), lipid/oil, some added extras as actives, fragrance, antioxidants broad spectrum preservative.  

[Paprik]

Hi, are we talking about (INCI name) Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer?
If so, I quickly checked CosIng, FDA US, TGA AU and looks like there are no limits. Therefore I don’t think you have to put any warning on the product label. Hope that helps.

[Paprik]

mhart123 said:

What would you consider it?

You even classified it as an emulsifier

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/#/discussion/6506/glyceryl-stearate-se-silicones-phenoxyethanol

Just a note, there is a difference between GMS and GMS SE.  

[Paprik]

ggpetrov said:

mhart123 said:

@ngarayeva001 GMS (glyceryl monostearate) is an emulsifier

No, it’s not!

Hi,
GMS has emulsifying properties. Its HLB is low, so it’s great for W/O emulsion.

[Paprik]

I was actually thinking about this question myself. Not long time ago. (Before I started my diploma study with IPSC)

However, from a logical side, it should not be counted. 
This is how I would explain it. You would basically need an emulsifier to emulsify the emulsifier. If that makes sense? 
Emulsifier has water loving and oil loving portion. The water loving sticks with water and the oil portion “catches” all the oil. 

To answer your question - Oil phase would be 19.5%, because you would have it in your oil phase/phase B or whatever, but the amount of oil to emulsify would be 15%. 
Hope it helped  

[Paprik]

Pharma said:

@Paprik was spot on and very professional. No kiddin’!

Oooh, from someone like you, it reaaaally flatters me. Thank you  

[Paprik]

Pharma said:

Paprik said:

….or you would be cleaning surfaces with bacteria, mold and yeast “infused” product. That would be lovely, aye?  

It’s called EM (effective microorganisms) and they are THE hype in eco-friendly cleaning and sell for way more $$ than traditional cleaning products no matter their effectiveness! I’d recommend something based on lactic acid bacteria (LAB is another great sales pitch) .

Hello Pharma, 
I don’t know who you are, but your comments are legend! I always learn something new from you. Thank you  
I haven’t heard about this trend, but … yeah, sounds ridiculous.

[Paprik]

Yes, it does. Anything above  pH 3 and lower then pH 10 and including more than 5% of water needs to be well preserved. 
Otherwise micro-organism will start to grow and will spoil your product or you would be cleaning surfaces with bacteria, mold and yeast “infused” product. That would be lovely, aye?  

[Paprik]

So do you want to have SIMPLE lotion or more professional feel lotion? 

[Paprik]

What kind of preservative are you using?

[Paprik]

I would worry more about your preservative system. 1% of Phenoxyethanol alone is not enough. It is not a broad spectrum preservative (it is good for gram-negative bacteria only)

[Paprik]

Hello,
not sure what do you mean.
So you create o/w emulsion (a cream) and if you put it on face as a face mask it goes transparent? 
The cream should have white colour by itself (depends of course), so if you put it on in thick-enough layer, I don’t see any problem. Unless you are applying really thin layer? 
Have you tried to add some pigments? 

[Paprik]

I did a quick google search and found your answer. Try it next time.
Ammonium Lactate is significantly more effective than Lactic acid. Ammonium lactate is better moisturizer. 
For more info, try to google it. Was really easy

[Paprik]

Yeah, I would see the main problem would be the pH. As Lactic Acid would require quite low pH to be bio-available, it can negatively effect the other ingredients. You would need to check required pH for the rest of the ingredients and then share the whole formula. 

[Paprik]

Hello,

as Pattsi said, if you are in USA, anti-acne products are considered drug. Not cosmetic. 
Australia - Cosmetic
Canada - Drug
China - Regular cosmetic
EU/South Africa/ASEAN/NZ - Cosmetic
Japan - Quasi drug
South Korea - Cosmetic.

So depending where you are in the world, please check everything out. 

[Paprik]

Hello Faustin,

I’m sorry, your description is kind of vague. I’m not really sure what do you mean by “when it got quite deep into the skin and I grabbed it and tried to wipe it got peeling”. 
What % did you use? Can you also share the formula so we can see the whole thing? 

But just couple of things about Niacinamide - Vit. B3. Water soluble, usage I would say 1-5%. @2% TEWL, helping your skin barrier, stimulates collagen production.
@5% - reduces appearance of age spots.
pH around 6 ( wouldn’t go under 5 and above 7 ).
Stable in light and oxygen.
Add to formula <70°C.

[Paprik]

Hello,

here we go again. If you would search soaping effect in this forum, you would find plenty of topics. 
However, … please check the video above. 
20% lipid is quite high input. Can you effectively stabilize it? Have you conduct proper testing? If yes, try to lower the emulsifier input. 
It may mean, that there is way too much emulsifier present and it’s not “busy” with emulsifying oils and it’s capturing air, thus soaping effect. 
You can also add some low HLB emulsifier ( max 2-3%, otherwise it can destabilise the formula ) as glyceryl stearate citrate or similar. 

[Paprik]

Most of the vitamins are Natural identical. Meaning, they are tots the same as in the “nature”, however they are tots synthetic, thus I think why it’s not Cosmos approved. 

[Paprik]

Hi,

when you’re using Trade names, please include INCI names. So we don’t have to google it.
Ice Hair Restore - Cetearyl alcohol (35%), behentrimonium chloride (35%), polyquaternium 37 (30)%.

In my opinion, it is way too many conditioning agents. Ice Hair Restore would be enough. But there would be someone more experienced with hair care products, so wait for more opinions.

[Paprik]

Hello you guys,

THANK YOU all, for your replies! Really appreciate that.

 

[Paprik]

Hey,

yeah, I think the same thing. Coconut butter. The input is quite high and its melting point is quite low. Even in balms etc I wouldn’t go over 10% with most butters. 

[Paprik]

Hello,

I’m not sure, but maybe the combination of XG and HEC? 
I usually don’t use these in serums. I simply thicken it with higher input of HA.