Paprik
Forum Replies Created
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What I’ve just learnt from my study with IPCS is that Vit E should be added below 40°C. However, when pouring hot products, balms for example, you can add it into molten product, but at as low temperature as possible, as the heat will oxidize it. Also, you should count with the oxidizing effect and increase the input of the Vit E.
Hope that helps
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Hi @Dan, you can only use low shear. Otherwise you will irreversibly cut the “nets” that Carbopol has formed and you will lose the viscosity.
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Look at this table. It could help you maybe a little bit with choosing the right one.
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Hi, you basically need some stabilizing agent. In other words, you need to create a “net” that holds the particles and doesn’t let them move.
I haven’t tried this on my own, but I’d say some polymer or gum (higher input) would help. -
Hi, I’m using Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate with Cocomidopropyl Butaine and the foam is super creamy and dense. At least to me. And it’s also super gentle on the skin. Sometimes I add Coco Glucoside just to boost the foam.
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Regarding the preservative, we really can’t really tell.
Kaolin is considered a high risk ingredient, so very robust preservative system is a must. Especially if the product would be in a high risk packaging - open neck jar, where customers will dip their fingers into.
Therefor I would suggest also chelating agent to support the preservative.
PET (preservative efficacy testing) would need to be conducted to make sure it will be effective for the products’ shelf life. -
So all of them are exthoxylated surfactants. The higher the number, the more moles of ethylene oxide was used. E.g. 20 means 20 moles. You are basically making them more water-loving.
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Yeah, it should be Water in Oil. Meaning it’s primary emulsifier for water in oil emulsions (It has low HLB ~5.
, however it can be used as co-emulsifier for O/W emulsion or as a thickener. I don’t see any “SE”, that would indicate that it’s self-emulsifying. A note, Glycerol Monostearate is the name, but its INCI name is Glyceryl Stearate.
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You need to heat both phases a bit over (5-10°C) melting point of your waxes. If you won’t have water hot enough and you pour it into the oil (which I also prefer, as the beaker doesn’t need to be hot enough at the top and the waxes will start to solidify), you risk getting “waxy water”. Your waxes can sit and you won’t be able to create a smooth glossy emulsion. You basically won’t have enough time to properly emulsify (if that’s what you doing).
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No, Glycerin doesn’t work as solubiliser. Solubiliser is basically liquid surfactant with very high +15 HLB. Glycerin is not a surfactant.
Could you maybe share where you’re getting the information from?
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Nope, I think you don’t solubilize it in hot water, maybe only disperse? (I’d watch the temperature also, as vit. E is heat sensitive and oxidizes when exposed to high temperatures). Use something like Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside or so.
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Yes, you would need to solubilize the Vit E first.
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Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost.
However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier?
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It’s a good practice to also include some stabilizing agent - gum/polymer.
So basically 🙂
Water (solvent), some humectant, water compatible gum/polymer, primary emulsifier (an anionic, waxy), co-emulsifier (non-ionic, high HLB, waxy blended), lipid/oil, some added extras as actives, fragrance, antioxidants broad spectrum preservative. -
Hi, are we talking about (INCI name) Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer?
If so, I quickly checked CosIng, FDA US, TGA AU and looks like there are no limits. Therefore I don’t think you have to put any warning on the product label. Hope that helps. -
mhart123 said:What would you consider it?
You even classified it as an emulsifier
Just a note, there is a difference between GMS and GMS SE.
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ggpetrov said:mhart123 said:@ngarayeva001 GMS (glyceryl monostearate) is an emulsifier
No, it’s not!
Hi,
GMS has emulsifying properties. Its HLB is low, so it’s great for W/O emulsion. -
I was actually thinking about this question myself. Not long time ago. (Before I started my diploma study with IPSC)
However, from a logical side, it should not be counted.
This is how I would explain it. You would basically need an emulsifier to emulsify the emulsifier. If that makes sense?
Emulsifier has water loving and oil loving portion. The water loving sticks with water and the oil portion “catches” all the oil.To answer your question - Oil phase would be 19.5%, because you would have it in your oil phase/phase B or whatever, but the amount of oil to emulsify would be 15%.
Hope it helped -
Pharma said:Paprik said:….or you would be cleaning surfaces with bacteria, mold and yeast “infused” product. That would be lovely, aye?
It’s called EM (effective microorganisms) and they are THE hype in eco-friendly cleaning and sell for way more $$ than traditional cleaning products no matter their effectiveness! I’d recommend something based on lactic acid bacteria (LAB is another great sales pitch)
.Hello Pharma,
I don’t know who you are, but your comments are legend! I always learn something new from you. Thank you
I haven’t heard about this trend, but … yeah, sounds ridiculous. -
Yes, it does. Anything above pH 3 and lower then pH 10 and including more than 5% of water needs to be well preserved.
Otherwise micro-organism will start to grow and will spoil your product or you would be cleaning surfaces with bacteria, mold and yeast “infused” product. That would be lovely, aye? -
So do you want to have SIMPLE lotion or more professional feel lotion?
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What kind of preservative are you using?
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I would worry more about your preservative system. 1% of Phenoxyethanol alone is not enough. It is not a broad spectrum preservative (it is good for gram-negative bacteria only)
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Hello,
not sure what do you mean.
So you create o/w emulsion (a cream) and if you put it on face as a face mask it goes transparent?
The cream should have white colour by itself (depends of course), so if you put it on in thick-enough layer, I don’t see any problem. Unless you are applying really thin layer?
Have you tried to add some pigments?