Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Pomade Humectant Proportions

  • Pomade Humectant Proportions

    Posted by jacksons on February 11, 2021 at 1:06 am

    Hi all, first post on here.
    I’m working on an emulsion formula for a pomade with medium high hold and am only a few weeks into research. Below is the formula I’m working with; I am wondering how to add veg glycerin and propylene glycol. From what I understand, they are both humectants and often used in tandem. How would I go about adding them to my formula?

    -Carnauba Wax: 17%
    -Avocado oil: 2%
    -Jojoba oil: 2%
    -Shea butter: 5%
    -Kaolin Clay: 3%
    -Bentonite Clay: 1%
    -PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 5%
    -Water: 63.5%
    -Fragrance: 1.5%

    Thank you,
    Jackson

    microformulation replied 3 years ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • paprik

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 8:25 pm

    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier? 

  • jacksons

    Member
    February 18, 2021 at 10:03 pm

    Paprik said:

    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier? 

    Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier. 
    I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade. 

    Cheers,
    Jackson

  • natzam44

    Member
    February 19, 2021 at 2:32 am

    jacksons said:

    Paprik said:

    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier? 

    Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier. 
    I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade. 

    Cheers,
    Jackson

    Shea butter is not an emulsifier. Your product is likely being held together by the wax and Hydrogenated Castor Oil, but I would be surprised if it remained stable over time.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 19, 2021 at 8:12 pm

    Weirdly, the bentonite and PEG-40 HCO might  just hold this together for a few weeks. Good ‘ol bentonite! Colloid workhorse. Back to @Paprik statement: a preservative is highly advised and lots of it with kaolin involved. 
      

  • microformulation

    Member
    February 19, 2021 at 11:41 pm

    jacksons said:

    Paprik said:

    Hi, is it pomade for hair? I’m little bit lost. 

    However, .. I would first worry about adding antioxidant and preservative. I don’t see any emulsifier? 

    Yes, hair pomade. I haven’t added a preservative as I am currently making 100g batches to test formulas, and am still researching the best preservatives to maintain a natural (organic if possible) ingredient list. From the research I’ve done, the shea butter can function as an emulsifier. 
    I’ve swapped 6% of the water content for 3% PG and 3% VG, and opted for 4% kaolin clay, 0% bentonite clay. With these changes, the formula comes out quite good; high all day hold, great creamy texture comparable to a typical clay-pomade. 

    Cheers,
    Jackson

    Your PEG-40 HCO eliminates this Formula for the Organic standards as well as most Third Party Natural Standards. This is why the word “natural” is of little use in R&D, no defined standard.
    In summary, it isn’t “Organic” (a defined standard) nor is it “natural.”

  • jacksons

    Member
    February 21, 2021 at 9:58 pm

    I appreciate the input and advice. I am learning alot; thank you. 

    Would 0.5% preservative suffice, or is that dependent on the preservative in question?

    Back to the original question: how do I determine what ratio PG:VG to add? Does anyone have any example percentages to use in this application?

    Lastly, in response to @Microformulation , I’ve sourced USDA certified organic PEG40 Hydrog Castor Oil, wouldn’t that mean that it is an organic component of my formula?

    Again, thank you all for the help.
    Jackson

  • paprik

    Member
    February 22, 2021 at 12:11 am

    Regarding the preservative, we really can’t really tell. 
    Kaolin is considered a high risk ingredient, so very robust preservative system is a must. Especially if the product would be in a high risk packaging - open neck jar, where customers will dip their fingers into.
    Therefor I would suggest also chelating agent to support the preservative. 
    PET (preservative efficacy testing) would need to be conducted to make sure it will be effective for the products’ shelf life. 

  • microformulation

    Member
    February 22, 2021 at 12:16 am
    PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is produced by reacting Hydrogenated Castor oil with ethylene oxide. It is highly unlikely there is a bonafide USDA NOP Organic Certified version, but “perhaps” I am wrong. What is your source of the raw material?

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