[Paprik]

I am a bit worried about you mixing anionic (SCI, Stearic acid, SLSa)  with cationic (BTMS). Especially if you will melt it and pour it. 
You can probably reduce Panthenol, it only adds to the cost and will be washed down the drain. So will probably the extract.

The main ingredients would be anionics, P-7 for conditioning and … yeah  

[Paprik]

https://www.stevenabbott.co.uk/practical-surfactants/cloud-krafft.php

Would this help a bit?

[Paprik]

Hmmm, hard to say, as all off them are kind of contributing to it. I’d say maybe Cetrimonium Chloride.
All the ethoxylated lipids after and humectants to follow. 

[Paprik]

You would need to use something like mica powder that has pearl colour/effect (mind that you would need to stabilise it) 

Or, you could use something like pearliser - glycol stearate. 

[Paprik]

- What is the acceptable percentage of surfactants a shampoo should contain?
I don’t think there is one. It really depends. However keep in mind that hair = lot of surface to clean. So usually shampoos have higher surfactants input. 
It also depends on what type of surfactant are you using and what type of hair is it for. 

- How much of a chelating agent should be in a chelating shampoo and what is the maximum percentage and the right PH?
Not all surfactants require chelating agent. If they do, check supplier data for recommended inputs and required pH. 
E.g. shampoo with sulfates would required a chelator, I’d use diNA EDTA at 0.1 - 0.2%.

- What is the right PH for a normal shampoo and conditionner?
Shampoo - I’d say 5 - 5.5.
Conditioner - lower pH - 4 - 4.5.

-Should I add an emulsifier when formulating a shampoo or does the surfactants in it do the job ?
No, you don’t need to. Unless you’re making some kind of hydrating shampoo lotion  

[Paprik]

Their holding power is based on their waxy/semi-solid form. 
They should be semi-solid to touch and should soften when rubbed between fingers/hands for easy application. 

They are usually W/O balms kaolin is added to ensure a matte finish. 

Hope this helps

[Paprik]

No worries @Anca_Formulator  

Nope, we did not make any of those.
Our practical was - Emulsion/Skin cream (they gave you formula), Surfactant with Sulfate (they gave you formula), Light lotion (your own formula), Sulfate free Face wash (your own formula), Conditioner (your own formula) and Reverse Engineering of their sample. They do supply ingredients for all of those. 

However, you do need to make a looooot of formulas. Just formulas .., according to their guides and builds. From easy creams, to DHA tanning lotions, surfactant systems, SPF, products with actives, hair care (waxes, hair dyes … ). There is a lot to do. 

Sorry if I took my answer too far  

[Paprik]

Here’s the formula and method

[Paprik]

Hmm, I think I can get something like this in here. I thought it would be something more like “cosmetic” grade. Not like supplement. 

Anyhow, when I try to look for it, my repacker has this : 

https://www.purenature.co.nz/products/horsechestnut-cellular-extract?variant=39483889451052&gclid=CjwKCAjw2rmWBhB4EiwAiJ0mtdMmjJtPc6jiE70SjIY1bCOdLTrX3gG-5IvrZJubLVualtMYgocZFRoCSH0QAvD_BwE

They don’t say what is the %, but I will try to get it from them. 
Already ordered it  

[Paprik]

@Graillotion, let me know if you’ll find any small repacker (I know it is not close from Hawaii to NZ, but .. can try to communicate with them).

I would love to try something like this toooo .. My eyes get puffy a lot *cringe*  

[Paprik]

If you could supply your formula that would be helpful. 

You can add Allantoin, Bisabolol, …

[Paprik]

Sara21 said:

@ketchito
GHTC is not compatible with non ionic surfactants in my experience. It’s never disolve and separated 

It is perfectly fine with non-ionic surfactants. Are you processing it correctly? GHTC needs acidic environment to hydrate properly. 

[Paprik]

Try to stick with recommended usage rates from your supplier.
Then, make the product and try it out. 

[Paprik]

@Anna_Maria

Hello, yeah sure, I like to use Cetearyl Alcohol (it is fatty acid), Cetyl alcohol, you can use maybe even blend like Polawax GP 200 … 

But I usually stick with Cetearyl Alcohol as it works and it’s great and not expensive  

[Paprik]

Please try to make 50 or 100 grams of the product and review it. 
I have never worked with Bentonite clay so not sure how it behaves.

Although I think your product will be too runny (no thickener, unless bentonite will thicken it?), sticky (honey) and messy (charcoal). 

[Paprik]

This is from the Opinion:

Tea Tree Oil is a skin sensitiser. Skin sensitisation may also be enhanced by irritancy. Neat
Tea Tree Oil and certain formulations at concentrations of 5% or more can induce skin and
eye irritation.
Based on clinical data, the current use levels of TTO are shown to induce contact allergy.

I would suggest you to make the product and try it. Frankly, I would not want to have that much Tea Tree oil close to my eyes and nose. 
Also, I would not want to clean the bathroom after rinsing 7% of charcoal    

[Paprik]

naramade said:

Paprik said:

Hi,

could you at least share what the lipid portion? In total? 
And extracts?

When you state you add Tocopherol into Oil phase. Does that mean you are heating it with all the lipid portion for emulsification? 
That might be the problem. Tocopherol (I am guessing you are not using Tocopherol Acetate) is heat sensitive and if you are using it in balm/hot pour, you need to increase its input significantly as some of it does oxidase due to the high temperature. 

Also, I am not really sure about your preservation system. 
Gluconactone does help with preservation of the product, but I would not rely on it. Especially with Potassium Sorbate only. (You have a very nutrient rich formula)

Hi! Paprik, tocopherol acetate has no antioxidant protective benefits in formulas, it only provides antioxidant benefits to the skin. It’s a very common mistake though. 

And that is why I said and bolded “NOT” using Tocopherol Acetate.

[Paprik]

Depends on how much are you using and what grade. 
If you use standard Mesh 200, not much can help. Try to source some better grade and you will see great improvement. 

[Paprik]

1% fragrance is LOT. Try to make it without the fragrance and see how it goes. 
I usually go up to 3% of NaCl. After that I give up  

[Paprik]

What is your question/issue mate? 

[Paprik]

If you are in Europe, your best friend is CosIng. You can find all regulatory restrictions, limits and useful information. 

Start at page 68 - Conclusion. But if you have problems with sleeping, read the whole Opinion document  

https://ec.europa.eu/health/system/files/2021-08/sccs_o_199_0.pdf   

[Paprik]

Yeah, HEC is no very good in surfactant systems. I have tried to make it work several times - always a fail! 

Xanthan Gum is, however you need to process that correctly. 
As Mark said, glucosides are hard to thicken and Lauryl especially. 

Frankly, I don’t like the feel of only glucosides. I believe you should add at least some amphoteric surfactant.  

[Paprik]

I would be careful with SPF 50 with only 10% zinc oxide.
To get 1 SPF you need from 0.75 - 1% of Zinc oxide. So even if you have the best base and suspension, you need 1% of Zinc oxide to achieve 1 SPF. 

I know there are some SPF boosters and a lot of new innovations, but I would be skeptical. However I am, by no means, no sunblock expert. This is just from what I’ve learnt with IPCS. 

[Paprik]

I am sorry, but I must disagree. It is considered relative dry emollient. I have it and it feels pretty light to me. 

Here is what I found on Prospector - 
It
can be characterized as a relatively dry ester with a slight characteristic oleyl
odor. It is useful in creams and lotions to reduce tack or as a vehicle to
incorporate heavy oils into a formulation.

[Paprik]

Dimethicone - low cps. 
Decyl Oleate
Coco caprylate
Grapeseed oil perhaps? 
Rosehip oil perhaps? 

The problem is, the lighter the emollient, the less emolliency. 
That is why it is important to mix more lipids in a product to achieve the perfect balance.