[Paprik]

If you could supply your formula that would be helpful. 

You can add Allantoin, Bisabolol, …

[Paprik]

Sara21 said:

@ketchito
GHTC is not compatible with non ionic surfactants in my experience. It’s never disolve and separated 

It is perfectly fine with non-ionic surfactants. Are you processing it correctly? GHTC needs acidic environment to hydrate properly. 

[Paprik]

Try to stick with recommended usage rates from your supplier.
Then, make the product and try it out. 

[Paprik]

@Anna_Maria

Hello, yeah sure, I like to use Cetearyl Alcohol (it is fatty acid), Cetyl alcohol, you can use maybe even blend like Polawax GP 200 … 

But I usually stick with Cetearyl Alcohol as it works and it’s great and not expensive  

[Paprik]

Please try to make 50 or 100 grams of the product and review it. 
I have never worked with Bentonite clay so not sure how it behaves.

Although I think your product will be too runny (no thickener, unless bentonite will thicken it?), sticky (honey) and messy (charcoal). 

[Paprik]

This is from the Opinion:

Tea Tree Oil is a skin sensitiser. Skin sensitisation may also be enhanced by irritancy. Neat
Tea Tree Oil and certain formulations at concentrations of 5% or more can induce skin and
eye irritation.
Based on clinical data, the current use levels of TTO are shown to induce contact allergy.

I would suggest you to make the product and try it. Frankly, I would not want to have that much Tea Tree oil close to my eyes and nose. 
Also, I would not want to clean the bathroom after rinsing 7% of charcoal    

[Paprik]

naramade said:

Paprik said:

Hi,

could you at least share what the lipid portion? In total? 
And extracts?

When you state you add Tocopherol into Oil phase. Does that mean you are heating it with all the lipid portion for emulsification? 
That might be the problem. Tocopherol (I am guessing you are not using Tocopherol Acetate) is heat sensitive and if you are using it in balm/hot pour, you need to increase its input significantly as some of it does oxidase due to the high temperature. 

Also, I am not really sure about your preservation system. 
Gluconactone does help with preservation of the product, but I would not rely on it. Especially with Potassium Sorbate only. (You have a very nutrient rich formula)

Hi! Paprik, tocopherol acetate has no antioxidant protective benefits in formulas, it only provides antioxidant benefits to the skin. It’s a very common mistake though. 

And that is why I said and bolded “NOT” using Tocopherol Acetate.

[Paprik]

Depends on how much are you using and what grade. 
If you use standard Mesh 200, not much can help. Try to source some better grade and you will see great improvement. 

[Paprik]

1% fragrance is LOT. Try to make it without the fragrance and see how it goes. 
I usually go up to 3% of NaCl. After that I give up  

[Paprik]

What is your question/issue mate? 

[Paprik]

If you are in Europe, your best friend is CosIng. You can find all regulatory restrictions, limits and useful information. 

Start at page 68 - Conclusion. But if you have problems with sleeping, read the whole Opinion document  

https://ec.europa.eu/health/system/files/2021-08/sccs_o_199_0.pdf   

[Paprik]

Yeah, HEC is no very good in surfactant systems. I have tried to make it work several times - always a fail! 

Xanthan Gum is, however you need to process that correctly. 
As Mark said, glucosides are hard to thicken and Lauryl especially. 

Frankly, I don’t like the feel of only glucosides. I believe you should add at least some amphoteric surfactant.  

[Paprik]

I would be careful with SPF 50 with only 10% zinc oxide.
To get 1 SPF you need from 0.75 - 1% of Zinc oxide. So even if you have the best base and suspension, you need 1% of Zinc oxide to achieve 1 SPF. 

I know there are some SPF boosters and a lot of new innovations, but I would be skeptical. However I am, by no means, no sunblock expert. This is just from what I’ve learnt with IPCS. 

[Paprik]

I am sorry, but I must disagree. It is considered relative dry emollient. I have it and it feels pretty light to me. 

Here is what I found on Prospector - 
It
can be characterized as a relatively dry ester with a slight characteristic oleyl
odor. It is useful in creams and lotions to reduce tack or as a vehicle to
incorporate heavy oils into a formulation.

[Paprik]

Dimethicone - low cps. 
Decyl Oleate
Coco caprylate
Grapeseed oil perhaps? 
Rosehip oil perhaps? 

The problem is, the lighter the emollient, the less emolliency. 
That is why it is important to mix more lipids in a product to achieve the perfect balance. 

[Paprik]

“I don’t use any sunscreen”. That would be the first WARNING! 

I believe you are not doing much by applying 2% salicylic acid solution at pH 5. I am afraid all of the acid has been neutralized and it’s become salt. Salicylic acid needs to be below pH 3 to be at least 50% bioavailable. 

I guess the nose it always kind of exposed to the sun (you are located in India, right?), that is why it might get effective more. 

In this case, I would say it is the Lactic acid, as it is quite a low pH and it probably does provide a good exfoliation. 
But please, use sunscreen. Otherwise all the skincare and effort you are putting into it goes up the chimney. 

[Paprik]

But, is it really necessary? If you put the paste into water and maybe heat it a little, doesn’t it turn into thin solution quickly? 
(Just guessing, I’ve never worked with it). For me you are the SLS and SLES expert  

[Paprik]

Sulfates are salt responsive. If it does not thicken after you add Cocamidopropyl Betaine, try keep adding NaCl in small increments (0.3 - 0.5%) and see how it goes. 

Adding NaCl should be the last step (record how much you’ve added and recreate the formula after), first adjust the pH, sometimes it helps too. 

How much fragrance are you using? Sulfates are usually strong enough to hold small amount without needing of solubiliser. However, you might need to solubilise the fragrance first before adding into your product. 

If you could share your formula, we would be able to help you more.  

[Paprik]

@seryou would you have any other non-ionic emulsifier? Blend preferably? GMS SE is anionic and for denser packing it would be better to add some of non-ionic surfactant. 

Are you using high shear? 

[Paprik]

I don’t think you need salt to get SLES dissolved? At least I have never heard of it.

The final pH is 6? Ok, you are facing another possible problem - microbial contamination. Even though you are using probably 400% of recommended input of Sodium Benzoate, it won’t work as it needs low pH (<5). It is also known to be quite irritating (even at 0.3%). You need to add some Bactericidal, such as DMDM Hydantoin. 

[Paprik]

In my opinion you can even remove the Polysorbate. 
With Dimethicone, start with 1-2%.

[Paprik]

Amen to @MarkBroussard. 

Look at your oil/butter portion - 9%. 
Look at your emulsifier portion - 12%. No wonders you have soapiness. 
It is probably grabbing oils from the skin and try to emulsify it. (that is how crème cleansers work) as you have access of it. 

You would have to significantly increase your lipid portion. 

Beeswax (as low HLB) could help with the soaping effect, but I would choose a different ingredient. Such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate). Or Sorbitan stearate. 

However, ultimately Dimethicone would be the hero ingredient. Seriously, nothing wrong with it. 

[Paprik]

A few questions on your formula. 

So you’re adding salt (Sodium chloride) twice? And you end up sometimes at 5%? ..
Do not add the salt at the beginning and only use it at the end. You may “over-salt” it and that is why you lose viscosity. First check and adjust final pH though.

What is your final pH? 

Your ONLY preservative is sodium benzoate? At 1.2%??!!?

[Paprik]

“I was thinking since I added an anti oxidant , preservatives won’t be needed” 
OH LORD!

[Paprik]

Coco Glucoside, as non-ionic, does add to the mildness of the product. You could also try some cationic gum (guar hydropropyltrimonium Chloride), Polyquats (Polyquaternium-7) or superfatting agent (PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate).