Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Butter in gel moisturizer

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    July 17, 2022 at 4:09 pm

    Unfortunately the formula is not included in the video but you can request it from IPCS. I’m not sure it’s ok to share it here, so I will just say that the ‘magic’ ingredient here is Acticire MB ((Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3) at 6%. 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 17, 2022 at 4:21 pm

    Acticire MB allows you to incorporate some water into an anhydrous formula.  All that’s going on here is brute-force jamming the ingredients together.  I doubt that it would be long-term stable compared to an emulsion.

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    July 17, 2022 at 6:19 pm

    @MarkBroussard: That’s helpful to know. These ‘unusual’ textures are intriguing to me, but maybe there is a good (stability) reason there are not a lot of them out there. 
    Acticire is used here in a different way that supplier recommends, i.e. up to 5% Acticire can incorporate up to 15% water soluble ingredients. This product is almost 80% water.

    What are some unique textures you have seen in the natural world? I mean ones that work ;-)

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 17, 2022 at 6:50 pm

    @Anca_Formulator

    Yes, that is why they add the gelling agent to the water phase … to slow the migration of water from the matrix.

    I find Sunflower Oleosomes interesting to work with.

  • Paprik

    Member
    July 17, 2022 at 7:03 pm

    Here’s the formula and method :)

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    July 17, 2022 at 11:28 pm

    Thank you @paprik. I recall you took some training from IPCS, did you make these types of ‘funky’ products as part of the program, or afterwards?

  • Paprik

    Member
    July 18, 2022 at 7:05 pm

    No worries @Anca_Formulator :) 

    Nope, we did not make any of those.
    Our practical was - Emulsion/Skin cream (they gave you formula), Surfactant with Sulfate (they gave you formula), Light lotion (your own formula), Sulfate free Face wash (your own formula), Conditioner (your own formula) and Reverse Engineering of their sample. They do supply ingredients for all of those. 

    However, you do need to make a looooot of formulas. Just formulas .., according to their guides and builds. From easy creams, to DHA tanning lotions, surfactant systems, SPF, products with actives, hair care (waxes, hair dyes … ). There is a lot to do. 

    Sorry if I took my answer too far :D 

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    July 18, 2022 at 7:13 pm

    @Paprik That sounds like a lot of practice, which is good ;-)

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