Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Help with shampoo bar

  • Help with shampoo bar

    Posted by kannes on September 7, 2022 at 6:00 pm
    Hi,
    I’ve looked at past discussions about shampoo bars and tried to glean as much of the information as possible.    
    I’ve worked up a formula and was wondering if anyone could look it over and see if there were any potential problems with any ingredients or usage rates.  For now I do not have a preservative but this will be added once I have a working formula.  
    In regards to the sci I have both the chip form for melting or powder.  I want as uniform and smooth a texture as possible.  So any recommendations would be great.  I can get a press or pour in molds. 
    My goal is to have a nice suds, leaving hair feeling clean but still a little moisturized (but not weighed down)…and leave hair as shiny as can be possible with a shampoo.     
    Any feedback is much appreciated, thank you!  
    Sodium cocoyl isethionate 50%
    Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 17%
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10%
    BTMS 25 6%
    cetyl alcohol 4%
    stearic acid 2.5%
    hydrolyzed rice extract 2%
    *Repair Vita Oil (making cosmetics) 2%
    polyquaternium 7 1.5%
    panthenol 1.5%
    sodium lactate (60%) 1.5%
    artichoke leaf extract 1%
    brassica oil copolymer 0.5%
    mango seed butter 0.5%
     * Repair Vita Oil contains sunflower seed oil, macadamia seed oil, quinoa seed extract, coconut oil, gardenia flower extract, rosemary leaf extract and tocopherol.  
    kannes replied 1 year, 9 months ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Syl

    Member
    September 7, 2022 at 9:21 pm

    Your formula looks fine to me. Regarding cleansing, suds and moisturized feeling; those are variables; older people and some young people have dry scalp and need gentle cleansing, others have oily scalp, some clean their hair ounce a week or less, others have build up from too much hair products and need stronger cleansing.  It is unlikely that one shampoo formulation will fit all. You need to figure out what your target audience needs and adjust accordingly.

  • kannes

    Member
    September 8, 2022 at 2:13 pm

    Syl said:

    Your formula looks fine to me. Regarding cleansing, suds and moisturized feeling; those are variables; older people and some young people have dry scalp and need gentle cleansing, others have oily scalp, some clean their hair ounce a week or less, others have build up from too much hair products and need stronger cleansing.  It is unlikely that one shampoo formulation will fit all. You need to figure out what your target audience needs and adjust accordingly.

    Thank you for your response! 

  • Paprik

    Member
    September 8, 2022 at 7:03 pm

    I am a bit worried about you mixing anionic (SCI, Stearic acid, SLSa)  with cationic (BTMS). Especially if you will melt it and pour it. 
    You can probably reduce Panthenol, it only adds to the cost and will be washed down the drain. So will probably the extract.

    The main ingredients would be anionics, P-7 for conditioning and … yeah :) 

  • ozgirl

    Member
    September 8, 2022 at 10:20 pm

    Another word of caution. Make sure you are wearing respiratory protection when using the SCI powder. It is very irritating to the respiratory system.

  • kannes

    Member
    September 12, 2022 at 3:50 pm

    Paprik said:

    I am a bit worried about you mixing anionic (SCI, Stearic acid, SLSa)  with cationic (BTMS). Especially if you will melt it and pour it. 
    You can probably reduce Panthenol, it only adds to the cost and will be washed down the drain. So will probably the extract.

    The main ingredients would be anionics, P-7 for conditioning and … yeah :) 

    Thank you!  I will keep this all in mind.  Waiting on a couple ingredients so once I receive them I’ll try both with and without the btms and see how it goes.    

  • kannes

    Member
    September 12, 2022 at 3:50 pm

    ozgirl said:

    Another word of caution. Make sure you are wearing respiratory protection when using the SCI powder. It is very irritating to the respiratory system.

    Thank you, will do!

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