ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Zahra said:HiIngredientsWaterGlyoxylic acidGlycolic acidPolyquaternium 6PhenoxyethanolGlyoxylic acid is your functional ingredient. Not keratin. Not dimethicone, not cationic polymers.
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I guess you are trying to reverse engineer OWOW spray. Panthenol, keratin, amodimethicone etc etc are there for marketing. The main component is glyoxylic acid. It’s marketed as ‘formaldehyde free’ but the only reason it’s working is that it releases formaldehyde when heated to 220/230 C. That is why it’s particularly important to use flat iron that heats up to that temperature (not all do). You need to research how much of it is needed for it to be effective and yet don’t cause hair to break. Once you establish that (and other important thing such as required ph) try to make the product with minimum number of ingredients (water, acid, preservatives, ph regulators). And when you are happy with the results add panthenol and alike for marketing at 0.001%
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Sepimax Zen or Sepinov EMT10. If you are using buffered blend don’t use acrylic acid based polymers. None would tolerate strong electrolytes.
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Gordof said:just one additional hint.
If you make a W/O emulsion it is good to incorporate the Conservation System into the Water Phase otherwise the phase that needs to be prevented from forming micro bacterial contamination will probably don’t have enough of the material incorporated. Later added “Waterphase” to a W/O emulsion will make new Droplets and therefore do not interact with the other water droplets in the system. if they would do your emulsion would not be stable and you would see coalescence and Phase separation. so you only will get the dissociation part into the water droplets and that can sometimes not be enough. You can Properly reduce conservation if you add it to the water phase directly.
PS optiphen Plus is very active within the Emulsifier layer and therefore can be Problematic for Stability.
If I am not wrong adding a preservative to the waterphase is critical with w/o because oil is a continuous phase. So addicting a preservative in the end isn’t effective at all, as it won’t get where it’s needed.
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Phenonip is a much better option. And less heat sensitive. It doesn’t cause viscosity issues as per my experience.
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Not directly related to the question but I believe tetrasodium EDTA is to be used in basic not acidic products. You probably need disodium.
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Zinc PCA will break carbomer. Carbomes aren’t electrolyte resistant.
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Anhydrous products look easy on ‘paper’ but are tricky in practice. In my experience most of the issues are solved by combining waxes different in terms of polarity and brittleness/softness.
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Agree with what Graillotion said. Everything but the kitchen sink here. You need to simplify it. Keep the urea and one extract if you really need to have it. Probably keep GDL but make sure that the final pH is urea friendly.
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Besides what is said in that article you need to experiment to understand what each individual wax adds to the product. I suggest making 15% samples with all of waxes you have an the same oil to see what each do. You need high melting point waxes to keep it as a stick.
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There’s a good article in ulprospector on this topic https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/7130/pcc-touch-color-historical-contemporary-lipstick-formulation/
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Do not mix cationic emulsifiers with anionic rheology modifiers in a liquid product. Also, not enough emulsifier.
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Personal experience here. I compared behenyl OH, cetyl OH, MM and cetyl palmitate in the same base. The last two are water thin at 2%. Behenyl is more viscous than cetyl (probably due to higher melting point)
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I often guilty of buying into marketing but in this case I am 100% with Perry. Glycerin and xanthan would do the same. Maybe try different grades and select one that is more similar to tremella.
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Octyldodecanol gives glide to lip balms. But I am sure there are other options
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Hi all, I am making this mistake apparently. May I please ask why lactate buffer won’t work?
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In most cases you need to homogenise after the temperature drops below 50C. I also see two potential issues with your formula:
1) you use very high polarity emollients. Even o/w are more stable with lower polarity oils let alone w/o. I suggest you change at least one of them to hydrocarbons.
2) one emulsifier isn’t usually enough.
I assume the preservative is actually included. -
If you specifically don’t want to use sulfates there are plenty of alternatives. Nothing would be as good at cleaning as SLS/SLES. Look into iselux ultramild surfactant blend. It’s very much like a cake mix. Just add water and preservatives and you have a mild shampoo. It’s sensitive to some fragrances, so if you don’t have much experience maybe don’t add anything but water and preservatives.
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And don’t forget to add BHT and BHA
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For me Sepilift DPHP, Softisan 378 (I know petrolatum is better) and especially softisan 649. The first one is wishful thinking, the last two can be replaced by much cheaper conventional ingredients. But I still love them
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pH strips are different. These are not bad (although expensive) Camlab 1138922 pH-Fix indicator stick, pH 0.0-6.0, 6 mm x 85 mm (Pack of 100) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XS94378/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4JXCV335S6J75PE596AX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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To the comments above I will add that aristoflex avc can not emulsify more than 5% of oil. It’s a fantastic texture enhancer but I wouldn’t use it as a sole emulsifier.
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Lipstick is one of the most difficult cosmetic products to create. There’s a countless number of things that can go wrong and you will not be able to find an ‘affordable’ expert in this field.