Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating AHA acids formulation

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  • AHA acids formulation

    Posted by dtdang on March 23, 2022 at 12:39 am

    AHAs include Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Citric Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract ,Tartaric Acid, Malic Acid.

    I get trouble to formulate AHAs for peeling cream.  
    Any suggestions are appreciated in advance. I do not like use the thickener like xanthan gum, carbomer.

    Best regards

    dtdang replied 1 year, 9 months ago 4 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • paprik

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 1:12 am

    Can you be more specific with the trouble you get?

    If you’re looking for how to thicken your product, than Carbomer would be useless anyway. There are also some great grades of XG, it might be worth it exploring those options.

    You can try to use high molecular hyaluronic acid to gel your product. 

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 4:40 am

    @Paprik thank you so much. Peeling cream is so so thin. I also included hyaluronic acid with very small molecular and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 2% ahas.
    For my learning, would you explain the reasons carbomer being useless and xg is ok.

    how high molecular hyaluronic acid? I have very small and small 

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 4:45 am

    The very small molecular 35 - 59 kDa 
    the small molecular 200 - 400 kDa

  • paprik

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 6:58 am

    Carbomer is electrolyte sensitive. And needs pH around 6.0 - 6.5. Even if you create a nice clear thick gel, once you introduce the acids, it will turn water thin. Sepimax Zen could hold some acid load.

    XG actually needs slightly acidic environment to swell properly. Therefore is suitable for that. 
    Succinoglycan gum is also great for acid/electrolytes rich environment. 

    Small molecular weights HA won’t gel. The higher MW, the better gelling properties. Over a million kDa would be preferable. 

    One thing to point out - Acid peels require low pH. Usually 3 - 3.5. That would not be compatible with your MAP as it requires more neutral pH -  6.0 - 7.0.

    Share maybe your whole formula, so we can take a look and help you. 

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 2:13 pm

    @Paprik thank you so much! You are great scientist & formulator!

  • paprik

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 5:59 pm

    @Dtdang, hehe, thank you. And guess what, I am one of those worse ones :D There are much better chemists in here, which is great :) 

    I have a long way to go! Happy studying and formulating

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 3:51 pm

    @Paprik! Good morning.
    I have question: I soluble Hyaluronic acid into the pure water. Then, put (water + Hyaluronic) into the refrigerator for cooling. It takes up to 2 hours for all (2%) hyaluronic acid to soluble into water. 
    Do you have better way to soluble hyaluronic?

    Then, I run into another problem that other powder ingredients are difficult to soluble into the cool water.

    Thank you so much,

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 3:53 pm

    @Paprik, not 2% hyaluronic. But, 0.2% hyaluronic. It is typo.

  • paprik

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 5:55 pm

    Hello,

    HA takes a while to hydrate, but you will get there. 
    You can disperse it in water with preservative and leave it overnight.
    Or I like to mix HA with glycerin/propylene glycol and add to water. This way you won’t have any clumps - same way as you would slurry natural gums to prevent fish eyes. 

    Remember, HA is heat sensitive (do not heat) and shear sensitive. 

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 6:52 pm

    @Paprik!
    You are Great Formulator! Thank you so much. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 7:53 pm

    Sepimax Zen or Sepinov EMT10. If you are using buffered blend don’t use acrylic acid based polymers. None would tolerate strong electrolytes.

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 11:18 pm

    @ngarayeva001! Thank you so much for wonderful tips. 
    I will order one of them.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 9:29 am

    If you only get one get Sepimax Zen. Lotioncrafter sells.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 9:30 am
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 9:30 am
  • dtdang

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 1:14 pm

    @ngarayeva001!
    Thank you so much! I will do it.

  • evchem2

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 8:51 pm

    @Paprik do you have any literature/ source on XG swelling better in acidic media? Haven’t heard that before, I would have expected since it is anionic that acidity would not help hydration

  • paprik

    Member
    March 27, 2022 at 8:36 pm

    evchem2 said:

    @Paprik do you have any literature/ source on XG swelling better in acidic media? Haven’t heard that before, I would have expected since it is anionic that acidity would not help hydration

    Hello, sorry, to make it clear. XG is usually better in pH<7. However, there are some grades that tolerates higher pH. That is why I said slightly acidic. 
    XG is very forgiving. 
    We have been taught this in my study with IPCS.

  • dtdang

    Member
    March 29, 2022 at 9:19 pm

    @Paprik! Thank you so much!
    The result is excellent after I used 0.3% hyaluronic Medium. The peeling cream is thickener and no irritation without XG. I believe that hyaluronic M reduces the irritation from AHAs acids.

  • dtdang

    Member
    May 14, 2022 at 9:00 pm

    @Paprik, How are you? I have question:
    When I put hyaluronic acid 0.15% M(1.3 MDa) and 0.15% Hyaluronic acid xs (35 KDa, very small), and water to 85%, mix them gently, It become gel.
    I add 4% AHA acid, pH=4.7. Mix them together, The previous gel is disappear and just liquid. 
    Question 1: What happen? AHA react to hyaluronic acids?
    Question 2: incredient that has less than 500 Da molecular weight can be absorbed to skin. Hyaluronic acids have molecular weight > 500 Da. Therefore they can not be absorbed to skin?

    Thank you so much and have good weekend.

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