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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Aristoflex hot process

  • Aristoflex hot process

    Posted by Learntounlearn on January 26, 2022 at 1:29 pm

    Hi
    How to use aristoflex avc as sole emulsifier in hot process emulsion? I added it to the oil phase and was waiting for it to melt but it never did. I went ahead and added hot water phase into the oil phase then blended for a while. After leaving it for few hours, I blended again and this time I got a smooth cream gel.
    Is this the right way of working with Aristoflex AVC in hot process emulsion?
    Thank you for taking out time to reply. 

    Learntounlearn replied 1 year ago 6 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Rockstargirl

    Member
    January 26, 2022 at 1:34 pm

    I believe it’s a cold process emulsifier. It’s gelling so you add it to the water phase. It will hold about 5% oil. Sounds like you lucked out though! 

  • GiuliBi

    Member
    January 26, 2022 at 2:28 pm

    Aristoflex AVC can be hydrated in water or dispersed in the fat phase and can be processed both cold and hot. with my home equipment I get better results when i hydrate it in the aqueous phase, preferably warm, separately from other rheological modifiers. I cannot comment on a professional use with professional equipment, so maybe this suggestion could be pointless, but If you want to disperse it in the fat phase, it may be useful to pre-disperse it in esters to avoid agglomerations (mostly if there are other powders dispersed in the fat phase).

  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 26, 2022 at 5:39 pm

    I always use it in the oil phase.  It does NOT dissolve in oil, so no amount of stirring or time will alter the state in oil.  I view this as a HUGE advantage.  If mixed into the water phase, then you are working with pudding….I don’t like working with pudding.

    I have found that over time, as the Aristoflex AVC I am using is repeatedly exposed to moist air, each time I open the bag….it does start to clump as a raw material.  But even this will process out, with time, and especially a second stir.  Using equipment that gives some shear, will also help with this.

    All of my products are warm process.

    There was no luck in your process, it was designed to perform in your situation….or many others.

    Aloha

  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 26, 2022 at 8:17 pm

    You did not mention your other ingredients…but I am sure you are aware that it is VERY sensitive to electrolytes.  Really, it’s only drawback.  (Sometimes this (and pH) forces my hand…to use the jiggly ‘Zen’…hehehe, but keeping ‘Zen’ below .5% will make it play nice.)

  • jemolian

    Member
    January 27, 2022 at 12:49 am

    Normally powder polymers don’t melt, they just get dispersed. So if it’s fully dispersed in your oil phase, you can go ahead with the next step. 

    After cool down, you don’t particularly need to blend again, it’s perhaps better to use a low shear option. If you are at home, just mix it by hand. Normally i just use an overhead lab mixer as i have one at home. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 27, 2022 at 8:09 pm

    To the comments above I will add that aristoflex avc can not emulsify more than 5% of oil. It’s a fantastic texture enhancer but I wouldn’t use it as a sole emulsifier.

  • Learntounlearn

    Member
    January 28, 2022 at 7:44 pm

    jemolian said:

    Normally powder polymers don’t melt, they just get dispersed. So if it’s fully dispersed in your oil phase, you can go ahead with the next step. 

    After cool down, you don’t particularly need to blend again, it’s perhaps better to use a low shear option. If you are at home, just mix it by hand. Normally i just use an overhead lab mixer as i have one at home. 

    Thank you. This is what I needed to know.

  • Learntounlearn

    Member
    January 28, 2022 at 7:48 pm

    You did not mention your other ingredients…but I am sure you are aware that it is VERY sensitive to electrolytes.  Really, it’s only drawback.  (Sometimes this (and pH) forces my hand…to use the jiggly ‘Zen’…hehehe, but keeping ‘Zen’ below .5% will make it play nice.)Graillotion said:
    I always use it in the oil phase.  It does NOT dissolve in oil, so no amount of stirring or time will alter the state in oil.  I view this as a HUGE advantage.  If mixed into the water phase, then you are working with pudding….I don’t like working with pudding.

    I have found that over time, as the Aristoflex AVC I am using is repeatedly exposed to moist air, each time I open the bag….it does start to clump as a raw material.  But even this will process out, with time, and especially a second stir.  Using equipment that gives some shear, will also help with this.

    All of my products are warm process.

    There was no luck in your process, it was designed to perform in your situation….or many others.

    Aloha

    Yes, I am aware of its instability with electrolytes. Thanks for mentioning the clumping issue. I was getting worried about it’s storage and suitability for further use.