ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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1) I have seen 5 but not 6, that’s interesting… anyway, they both would reduce soaping. 6 vs 350 would only be noticeable in some sort of serum (say oil/silicone-based hair serum). You won’t be able to tell difference in a lotion, so get the cheaper one.
2) No, you must list “dimethicone” without mentioning viscosity. What they are saying you don’t have to list it above LOI as the active ingredient. If you make claims that dimethicone in this formula reduces TEWL for example, you would have to list it above your LOI as the active ingredient and say how much you used. Look at sunscreens to get an idea, they would have active ingredients listed not he top, not within all other. -
I don’t see any preservatives here. There could be two reasons: it’s either a very poorly formulated product (and niacinamide+acid gives me a hint that it might be the case) or the pH is very low (below 3) and they relied on it. Again not a great idea, because it can drift, plus you don’t want to keep it lower than needed as many users would have irritation. My skin tolerates anything above 2.5 but I wouldn’t advise doing it. I don’t see TEA or NaOH in this LOI. Another warning sign. Is it a commercial product?
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What you really need to invest in (unless you already have it) is a professional grade pH meter.
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Thank you very much @Pharma. That’s a very interesting experiment and I will save this to try at some point.
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lotioncrafter and makingcosmetics. You can buy brand mystic moments on amazon. They have cheap D5 and PG.
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Niacinamide will degrade at the pH that is required for AHAs to be active. And yes I know some commercial brands that do it, but they are wasting materials.
You can add as little of extracts as you want. They don’t provide any tangible benefits and are added for claims. As long as you have one drop there, you can say it on the label (0.001%?).
Humectants: 5% altogether, and you don’t need all 3.
Sodium Hyaluronate - is it a gel maker or a claim ingredient in this formula?
If it’s a gel maker, 0.50-1% and you don’t need xanthan. If it’s a claim ingredient see extracts.
Xantan.. 0.3-0.5% you need to experiment and see what you like. -
It is happening because hydrocolloids based on acrylic acid don’t like electrolytes of any sort and kind. CAPB is almost pure salt. That’s why SLES/CAPB shampoo doesn’t need any viscosity modifiers. Acids, bases and salts are full of electrolytes. Replace CAPB with a small amount of Polysorbate 20. I also hope your IPA is 99%, not 70%.
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Emulsifier: just get Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 from naturally thinking (UK supplier). The best you can get and you don’t need to think about pairing it. You can buy cetyl alcohol and glycerin there as well (better prices).
Everything else that I listed (except for NAG, EDTA and Sepinov) is sold by https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/. They deliver to London within a week (even now).
You don’t need xanthan with all these polymers.
IPM is not a thickener, myristyl myristate is.
Trust the advice of professionals of this forum (not me, run a search and you will see what everyone says) and don’t waste your time on hyaluronic acid of any kind. The only good use for it is as a gelling agent in serums with a lot of electrolytes. You don’t notice any difference with other humectants. I suggest Butylene glycol for a nice non-tacky feel.
Sodium PCA is fantastic but you can’t mix it with polymers based on acrylic acid it breaks the network (even sepimax, it’s a matter of how much).
Peptides: waste of time and money and they also break the gel network.
Hydrosol is a bug food.
Goat milk.. don’t let me start on that one.
You don’t need that many (and that much) oils for oily skin.
I suggested a couple of materials for a mattifying effect.
If you decide to get everything from glamour, you can replace sepinov EMT 10 to Aristoflex Silk, they are very similar in texture and rheology.
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Ok, corrections:
Name/INCI % Aqua 67.00% Euxyl K940 1.50% Butylene
Glycol3.00% Glycerin 2.00% Niacinamide 4.00% NAG 2.00% Disodium EDTA 0.20% Jojoba oil 5.00% Cyclopentasiloxane 3.00% Dimethicone
3501.50% Cetyl Alcohol 3.00% Hydroxyethyl
Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer0.50% Polyacrylate
Crosspolymer-60.30% (Optional)Ronaflair light-reflecting powder - Sodium Potassium
Aluminum Silicate: 64,0 - 80,0 %Titanium Dioxide: 10,0 - 18,0 % C.
I. 77891Silicon Dioxide: 10,0 - 18,0 %
1.00% (optional)
Silicone Gel by glamoutcosmetics -Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone /
Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer3.00% Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100
Stearate3.00% -
I can however see you did your due diligence and found some decent formulation advice (how to formulate like a pro?). I will summarise it for you tomorrow.
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I don’t know where to start. You have incompatible ingredients in the formula. You exceeded recommend amount of phenoxyethanol. You added tones of bug food (and no even that amount of preservatives and distilled water and chelator can’t help here). Out of curiosity where are you getting ingredients from? Lotioncrafter or glamourcosmetics? By looking at your collection of HAs of all possible molecular weights I am guessing it’s lotioncrafter. You don’t need half of what you listed, and you will pay an arm and a leg ordering all of it from lotioncrafter (VAT, customs fees, etc)
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You can have 20% of glycolic acid but at a wrong pH, it won’t have exfoliating properties.
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Preservatives go either to waterphase or to cool down phase. You are trying to preserve water not oil! Of course it is turning into a blob.
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@Farrukh, you know why not to try that formulation? Because SLES will hydrolyse very quickly dr.iiserpune.ac.in:8080/xmlui/bitstream/handle/123456789/499/Pooja-20101086-Final%20report.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y
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@alchemist01, phenoxyethanol is very heat stable. Euxyl PE9010 can be heated to 110C, it’s the other ingredients that cause this issue.
Optiphen plus needs to be added below 60C. -
On the list of ingredients ‘Propylene Glycol’ is 1,2 Propanediol, ‘Propanediol’ it’s 1,3 Propanediol made of corn.
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It’s not MAP it’s a huge amount of siligel. Reduce it to 0.5%.
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Menthol is used in shampoos. I see those are mostly marketed to men. I don’t think there are any benefits except for cooling effect. You can add 0.5-1% of menthol crystals to SLES and make simple SLES/CAPB shampoo
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@Pharma, my bad. It’s 1,3 propanediol indeed. I used both and I have not noticed any difference in functionality. And I would assume that 1,3 propanediol can be used as antifreeze too. No one does it due to its high price.
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If the company is compliant with regulations they specify it as either oil or water.
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I have not tried it with mineral oil but alkyl benzoate helps mixing silicones with small amount of veg oil. It’s worth trying.
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@alchemist01, I read another humectant that works as a penetration enhancer is urea. When it comes to humectants my favourite is actually sodium lactate (it’s similar to sodium PCA but cheaper). Less sticky than glycerin and more hygroscopic. The problem with all of them is that they are electrolytes, so, carbomer gel isn’t an option. I think glycols are great in general, and nothing can beat PG when it comes to the price and functionality.
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As Perry said, it’s safe enough to eat. It’s in medicine and in some food products. But yeah “who wants to put anti-freeze on their face”… 1,2 Propanediol. Same thing but hey, it’s made from corn.
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I always get surprised when I see simethicone in cosmetics. It’s mostly used as IBS treatment.
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@Bill_Toge, thank you very much for this information. I came across a material (Sebumol S 1000) made of Polygylceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate. It’s specifically designed for making bath oil. I was hesitant but will try it now.