Is my formulation including too much or would this be ok?
HI there! I am a complete newbie based in the UK and have been reading up on as much as I can about formulating my own face cream.
I created a formula on paper and was wondering if the formulation looked correct and if I was missing anything or perhaps even clashing with ingredients before I attempted to create it.
I have checked the usage rates suggested by the supplier and have not exceeded any so some ingredients I may not be able to increase the percentage of.
I am looking for a gel cream consistency that isn’t too oily or too heavy as it would be a hydrating cream that sinks into the skin fairly quickly that I would use in the morning before my sunscreen.
Thank you all!
My formulation is as follows:Formulation - O/W Gel Face Cream deliverd in airless pump jar (5.5 pH?)Skin Type: Combination/acne prone/clogged pores/can be sensitive• Triple Distilled Water (heat and hold water phase at 75°c for 20mins, remember 10% evap) 15.80 %• Pure Triple Purified and Distilled Moroccan Rose Water 8.2%Non-negotiables (14.5%)EmulsifiersEmulsifier blend at around 25% of the total of the oil soluble ingredients with a minimum of 3% total emulsifier, and a maximum of 7%. Considered a combination of conventional emulsifier and a polymeric one.• Glyceryl Stearate (is the below pairing ok or should it rather be paired with polysorbate 60?) 1%• SEPINOV EMT 10 - SEPPIC (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) 2.00%• SEPIMAX™ ZEN - SEPPIC (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) (polymeric, gel property, not more than this % or becomes jelly-like, also electrolyte resistant) 0.50%Stabalisers• Cetyl Alcohol (stabaliser/thickener/emollient; to reduce drag and increase slide. Do I reduce this by 0.50% due to the addition of Isopropyl Myristate at 0.50%?) 2.00%• Isopropyl Myristate (to reduce oily/greasy feel of oils) 0.50%; or even• Penstia Powder (Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer. Reduce tackiness, and add slip with a silky, creamy skin feel, absorbs sebum)• Xanthan Gum (stabaliser, water soluble. place in oil phase) 0.30%Silicones• Dimethicone 350 (slip and occlusion) 2.00%• Cyclomethicone (quick evaporation, provides slip and non-film leaving) 3.00%Preservatives• Euxyl® PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin. End pH efficacy < 12) 1.00%• Perhaps: Euxyl® K940 (Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin. End pH efficacy < 12) 2.00%?• Dehydroacetic acid & Benzyl alcohol (GFecosafe / Preservative Eco equivelent. End pH efficacy range of 2 – 7) 1%Chelator• Disodium EDTA (used in neutral to mildly acidic products) 0.20%pH Adjuster• Citric Acid (decreases); or• Sodium Hydroxide (increase)Oils (11.50%)• Boabab Pressed Seed Oil (acne fighting; comedogenic: 2; Very Fast Absorption Rate of 1; Dry Oil) 2%• Oat Lipid Oil (Triacylglycerols: 48.6%, non-comedogenic; establishing and maintaining the epidermal water barrier; Omega-9/Oleic Acid 44.85%) 4.00%• Jojoba Oil, Golden (sebum-balancing, acneic skin, could reduce oil production, comedogenic: 2; Average Absorption Rate of 3; Leaves a slight oily or satiny finish; For Oily/Acne-Prone; Monounsaturated Omega-9/Eicosenoic Acid 71.99%) 2%• Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius): (radiant appearance, emollient and works with HA, comedogenic: 0; Fast Absorption Rate of 2; Feels light and absorbs into the skin readily. Leaves a silky smooth finish; Omega-6/Linoleic Acid 78%) 3.00%• Blue Tansy Essential Oil (Tanacetum Annuum: 12% Champhor, 6.6% Chamazulene, can help reduce the appearance of blemishes and provide a soothing sensation when applied to the skin, provide sweet, floral aroma and blue appearance) 1.00%Others (50%)• Goat Milk (caprae lac) (does this require a lye solution as soap making does?) 5.00%• Oat Silk (oil-reducing, mattifying) 4.00%• Niacinamide 6.00%• Resveratrol 1.00%• Silk Amino Acid PF (Molecular Weight: <3500 Daltons; glycine, alanine, and serine; hygroscopic) 2.00%• Sodium PCA (NMF, hygroscopic) 2.50%• HMW Sodium HA (<50,000 Daltons, in support of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3) 1.00%• LMW Sodium HA (<50,000 Daltons, in support of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3) 2.00%• SLMW Sodium HA (<50,000 Daltons, in support of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3) 1.00%• Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (support synthesis of collagen/ AKA Matrixyl) 2.00%• Matrixyl 3000 (anti-aging ) 8.00%• Neossance Squalane (Prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) 8.00%• Acetyl Glucosamine (replenish uneven skin tone) 4.00%• Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate (skin microbiome, probiotic cell renewal) 3.50%
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