ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Aloe, lecithin, plant extracts, clays and clay derived ingredients, proteins and anything that can be described as food (milk, honey, fruit purees, fruit juices). I am sure there is more.
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I can confirm you can get 4% hydroquinone from a dermatologist in the UK.
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Again, I totally understand that people must earn money. It’s ok to formulate within an outlined framework as long as person understands why they are doing it. Archives of this forum is an underestimated treasure. I recommend to search EWG to read opinions of professionals. In summary: EWG is not independent as they provide links where a consumer can buy ‘approved’ products. This is a direct conflict of interest. Their ratings aren’t consistent. Their assumptions aren’t properly documented. They absolutely ignore the most basic principle of toxicology: the dose makes the poison. They score formaldehyde releasers as 6 but there is a good chance that there is more formaldehyde in organic apple than in full jar of a moisturiser.
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I tried at 7.2 and it worked, so your range sounds right.
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SE would hold it.. have you checked the ph? Even if it’s just GMS it’s still a useable ingredient. You need to pair it up with a proper emulsifier. Ceteareth-20 is a good option.
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@MarkBroussard have you tried https://incidecoder.com/ for researching ingredients? They have pretty large database and allow advanced search. For example if you are looking for a material that is a blend you can search several ingredients used in one product together. They still have some silly unsubstantiated rating for ingredients but it’s less annoying than in EWG.
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@careyu, EWG being important for your uneducated customers is one thing. I would totally understand if it was a moral compromise for you because you have to make money to bring home bacon. But the fact it’s important for you means that not only you don’t want to educate yourself but you are pround of your ignorance. You managed to find this resource with hundreds of people who know more than you and are willing to spend time explainig why you shouldn’t be paying any attention to groups like EWG and instead of asking right questions you stubbornly sticking with your delusions. It’s actually sad.
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I had a supplier who mislabeled GMS+PEG-100 stearate as ‘SE’. I bought smallest pack available and tested it in low ph formula. Since it emulsified I concluded it’s the version with PEG-100 and I ordered a larger pack. SE has soap and will turns emulsion into unpleasantly looking grainy ‘porrige’ under low ph. Testing SE vs just GMS like this doesn’t make too much sense though as GMS alone isn’t an emulsifier.
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GMS shouldn’t create an emulsion at all, so it migh be SE. But w/o or o/w consideration isn’t relevant.
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I use EDTA with electrolytes sensitive polymers. It doesn’t cause any problems at 0.2%
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Cetyl because has better slip but it can be argued that stearyl is slightly better for stability.
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Not an ester but sepimax zen is very slippery. I often add it just for that quality. Speaking of esters coco caprylate is.
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I am wrong. I thought it’s oleate which has low hlb. Have you tried adding fatty alcohols. They often improve stability.
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Oh wait a second.. polyglyceryl-4 laurate and GMS… This system will lead to w/o. No acrylate based thickener would work here. Even xanthan shouldn’t. You need to reconsider the entire formula. AHA exfoliant won’t work effectively with oil as an external phase. Not sure about BHA but that’s not the point. The entire system isn’t stable and needs reworking.
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stearic acid sold by DIY suppliers often comes as a powder. I don’t like it because it’s clumping (not surprisingly).
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this is one of the best ways to understand if it’s o/w or w/o by looking at LOI. if you see salt somewhere around 1% line there’s a significant chance it’s w/o
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I remember there was an interesting conversations covering some of the “moisturising” aspects.
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/#/discussion/comment/46499
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I know this emulsifier is supposed to create very low viscosity products https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/1481/51908/ABIL-Care-85
I noticed this inci in several high-end serums including some of Lancome’s. I haven’te tested it myself yet. Pemulen Ez4U is a good emulsifier but it creates noticeable viscosity even at tiny amounts. -
20% polysorbate 80 and 80% of polar ester. IPM is medium polarity. I mean octyldodecanol or C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate or CC triglycerides (althout these can vary depending on supplier). Poly 80 would sink to the bottom of the container if it’s not properly solubilised. Tried many esters and oils, only the 3 I mentioned worked for me. It’s relevant for a liquid product like a blooming bath oil. IPM migh work if some thickener is added to make it into a melt.
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1) carbomers aren’t working well with electrolyes
2) those two grades will not work at such a low ph.
if xanthan isn’t an option, use Sepimax Zen. -
I haven’t seen one single source unfortunately, but I know that the best is petrolatum and mineral oil slightly lower.
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HCO might be useful as a thickener in anhydrous products such as lipbalms, and interestingly enough is used as a physical exfoliant (which is added to cool down phase as a powder).
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A very interesting topic. Environmental and toxicological claims aside, from the various charts I saw, Cocomidapropyl Hydroxysultaine is the mildest of the listed. My anecdotal experience confirms it (I haven’t tried coco betaine, isn’t it non-ionic?)
I also tried Sodium Babassuamphoacetate
http://www.farmaciavernile.it/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3079&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=65
for me it’s no different to CAPB (tried in the same product with only one ingredient changed, kept the ASM, not a proper test but better than nothing). On the negative side it is orange and it might not be desirable because it will color the product.I also recently noticed Shea Butteramidopropyl Betaine
this https://simply-ingredients.com/collections/all/products/shea-butter-surfactantsounds as an interesting ingredient but haven’t tried yet.
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To me those two are drastically different, but in a very basic oil in water emulsion consumer might not see any difference.
Reasons not to use sunflower oil:
1) Relatively high polarity = emulsion is less stable (more important with w/o)
2) It is prone to oxidation.
3) Mineral oil reduces TEWL much better
4) Mineral oil is hypoalergenic
5) As anything that grows (and undergoes minimum processing) the batches of the material won’t be very consistent due to factors such as weather.Reasons to use sunflower oil:
1) You can make soap out of it because unlike mineral oil it’s made of triglycerides
2) Natural claims.