Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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The standard response would advise discarding the batch. I once had a client who attempted this before seeking our help and ended up having to recall the entire product.
A more crucial aspect to consider is the sanitation of your equipment before manufacturing. I recommend taking a closer look at this process within your facility.
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You likely won’t get an answer for two reasons;
Firstly it’s a specialized Formulation in an entirely unrelated market.
Secondly, it is specialized knowledge that a consultant should rightfully get reimbursed for.
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Nanocarriers? Having interned with Ciba Geigy in the TransDerm Nitro QC line, I don’t think it is quite that simple.
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Recently I was able to ask an Attorney who has worked in Fair Claim Trade complaints. In his opinion, using the term “Chemist” clearly communicates an educational requirement and could lead to a plaintiff requesting credentials. “Formulator”, in his opinion, was more of a Vocational function and did not have the liability attached. If we avoid any “redrafting and redefining” of the term, the answer is simple.
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Likely 1%. I will warn you, before you try just adding the active, do some research. It’s not as simple as adding it. There are several threads regarding this I would search first. It’s a tricky Formulation.
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If you’ve ever worked in sterile processing, you would see that sterile conditions would be impossible to maintain in A Cosmetic Setting. It sounds like they have read a couple of articles on the Hurdle Technique. I would be interested in seeing any testing results. Hopefully, MOCRA will urge people to be more conservative in their risk assessments.
“Pseudo-preservatives?”
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The bulk of your actives are not going to have enough contact time to have any real effect. I would reduce them greatly.
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You vortex it in with prop mixing for 15-20 minutes. There are other methods as well. Keep in mind it still needs to be neutralized and once neutralized can’t be mixed under shear. Lubrizol has multiple pdf’s walking you through the process.
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We order a glass jar from SKS. As Perry said this is more for product stability. Once the client obtains packaging, we then run compatability.
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It’s not your Niacinamide but there is no need to use it at 5%. The issue is the Azaleic Acid. Search in this forum as it has been discussed at length previously.
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You would need to test and even then I would be reluctant. You could have microissues. I also believe you would have cGMP issues if audited. I know of a company in Tampa that tried this and their auditor was not a fam whatsoever.
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Not to be a nag, but what makes the product “organic?” In the US organic has a legal definition and if you are completely accurate the term would only be used in products or materials registered under the USDA NOP Organic program.
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Go to College. Get a Degree in a related Science Field. Work in the Industry and be mentored by experienced Chemists in a reputable Manufacturing Facility.
No offense to online learners or DIYers. That’s just the most accurate answer.
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Leucidal is known for being a poor preservative and you can find numerous discussions regarding that in the search function. @PhilGeis has expounded on this as well and he wrote one of the leading texts on Cosmetic preservation. We stopped using it early on and had too many PET failures to safely consider using it.
You can’t OBSERVE a product for contamination. You MUST test for this factor and its a micro test usually sent out.
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Your question is far too vague. What is the usage? What parameters are you using for “better.”
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As @ketchito has pointed out, maybe more Formula information would be helpful. That ingredient list is pretty pricey and I imagine substitutions may have been made.
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The DHA and Erythrulose do take some time to have full effect. Remember that DHA works through the Maillard Reaction which is not instantaneous. Erythrulose is used to even out the tone and get less of an orange cast to the tan.
You may want to look at starting Formulations. There is not in my experience ONE percentage that you would use across the product line. Many initial tanners are lower (5-8%). Competition Tans (yes this is a niche market, mainly with bodybuilders as well) may be as high as 12-15%. Remember the higher the percentage the more you will need to exfoliate and you can expect some transfer. If you look at the credible reviews of the higher DHA products you will see multiple complaints of staining of towels and other items.
Caramel and other dyes are often used to get an initial coloration. The line I work with has had a “proprietary” pigment mixture developed which they use in place of caramel.
I highly encourage you to look at starting Formulations and maybe read up on the products in some textbooks. As a great starting point, George Deckner (smart guy) has done an article on stabilizing sunless tanners that is invaluable to people who would like to produce these products. https://www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/413/pcc-stabilizing-sunless-tanning-formulations/
If you are trying to make a commercial product to be sold, track prices. In my experience, the market has a tighter margin than others. Before I learned this I wasted many hours with marketers (usually they call on Friday afternoon for some reason) on “how can we reduce the cost per gallon by $0.25 without affecting the performance?”
If it is for personal use, have some fun. DHA works great with silicones.
ulprospector.com
11 Tips for Stabilizing Sunless Tanning Formulations
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a water soluble alpha hydroxyl ketone that is the active in sunless tanning formulations. DHA reacts with amines, peptides, and amino
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NEVER share production and food prep spaces. It’s disallowed under every credible standard or text. Its a barrier to overcome not accept.
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I’m not surprised. Someone in the Forum (??) may have spoken to them in the past in a consult call. That someone passed on the work since they were reluctant to take any advice or direction.
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Thankfully your list reinforces my advice, “Don’t manufacture in your kitchen or where food is prepared.”
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Definitely a great product. I used it for a project successfully and I need to keep it in mind for a few future projects.
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Honestly, in many cases you will see older emulsifiers. I used Arlacel 165 in quite a few successfully. In my experience, cost trumps any “natural leanings.” You can decrease the stickiness through the use of proper emollients and perhaps some cellulose. I wouldn’t layer it. I’m not a fan of layering and in this case, there are a lot of incompatibilities.
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In my experience, you really need a Degree to get your foot in the door at most Cosmetic Manufacturers. Even with great grades in Undergrad, it was still a learning experience. Troubleshooting on the Production Floor was a valuable experience. I learned so much about Regulatory. I was able to learn process engineering. Again, you have to get your foot in the door first.
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Yes, while I can’t reveal the source due to NDA restrictions, one client of mine (a Sunless Tanning manufacturer) has sourced out a combination of dyes that they use in place of caramel. Caramel is much more common due to costs. As I continue to beat on the dead horse, price margins in this market sector are tight. They sell directly to spray tanners and these clients are fixated on the cost per gallon.
Also, in the higher levels of DHA you may see some streaking as well as the transfer.
