New to shampoo formulating, any help appreciated
I am attempting to create a color safe, sulfate and PEG free hydrating shampoo. I am not new to formulating but I am new to shampoo formulating so please be kind 🙂
Eventually I may add this to list of items in my skincare business but as of right now this is just being used by me.
For reference I have curly, color treated hair. I tend towards oily roots and dry ends so a major goal of this formulation was to provide good gentle cleansing and intense but not heavy/oily hydration.
My formula so far is as follows:
25% Decyl glucoside (sold under the name poly glucose
1% glyceryl Oleate
0.5% (30% solution) sodium lactate
0.25% (50% solution) sodium PCA
0.25 % high molecular weight HA
10% rice water
2% artichoke extract
1% baobab protein
1% siligel (Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan )
4% leucidal ( I will probably change the preservative later not worried about this )
2% rice lipids
2% sea kelp
So here’s the problem, although after conditioning my hair does not really look too bad, the shampoo has zero slip. When I run it through my hair it feels instantly knotty. Nothing like the smooth silky feel of commercial shampoos. The poly glucose I use is about 50% active matter so that puts me around 12.5% active matter. I thought maybe that was the issue and I tried lowering the poly glucose to 20% and same result. I tried reducing the extracts and rice water by half and no improvement just less shine. The rice lipids seem to help with smoothness when dry but do not improve wet combing. Tried taking out the siligel and seemed worse. Tried adding 1 gram foaming apple and even replacing some of the poly glucose with foaming apple, seemed worse. Tried adding 1 gram of cleansing blend WF (Decyl glucoside, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) seemed a bit better but gave me a scalp rash so that’s out.
I would like to avoid powdered surfactant or anything that’s really hard to dissolve as I am new to this. Any and all suggestions welcome!
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