Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions New to shampoo formulating, any help appreciated

  • New to shampoo formulating, any help appreciated

    Posted by AlissaNap23 on October 19, 2023 at 9:04 am

    I am attempting to create a color safe, sulfate and PEG free hydrating shampoo. I am not new to formulating but I am new to shampoo formulating so please be kind 🙂

    Eventually I may add this to list of items in my skincare business but as of right now this is just being used by me.

    For reference I have curly, color treated hair. I tend towards oily roots and dry ends so a major goal of this formulation was to provide good gentle cleansing and intense but not heavy/oily hydration.

    My formula so far is as follows:

    25% Decyl glucoside (sold under the name poly glucose

    1% glyceryl Oleate

    0.5% (30% solution) sodium lactate

    0.25% (50% solution) sodium PCA

    0.25 % high molecular weight HA

    10% rice water

    2% artichoke extract

    1% baobab protein

    1% siligel (Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan )

    4% leucidal ( I will probably change the preservative later not worried about this )

    2% rice lipids

    2% sea kelp

    So here’s the problem, although after conditioning my hair does not really look too bad, the shampoo has zero slip. When I run it through my hair it feels instantly knotty. Nothing like the smooth silky feel of commercial shampoos. The poly glucose I use is about 50% active matter so that puts me around 12.5% active matter. I thought maybe that was the issue and I tried lowering the poly glucose to 20% and same result. I tried reducing the extracts and rice water by half and no improvement just less shine. The rice lipids seem to help with smoothness when dry but do not improve wet combing. Tried taking out the siligel and seemed worse. Tried adding 1 gram foaming apple and even replacing some of the poly glucose with foaming apple, seemed worse. Tried adding 1 gram of cleansing blend WF (Decyl glucoside, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) seemed a bit better but gave me a scalp rash so that’s out.

    I would like to avoid powdered surfactant or anything that’s really hard to dissolve as I am new to this. Any and all suggestions welcome!

    AlissaNap23 replied 4 months, 1 week ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • AlissaNap23

    October 19, 2023 at 9:06 am

    Remainder percentage in formula is distilled water

  • microformulation

    October 20, 2023 at 1:13 pm

    The bulk of your actives are not going to have enough contact time to have any real effect. I would reduce them greatly.

    • AlissaNap23

      October 20, 2023 at 7:12 pm

      Thanks for the tip!

  • fekher

    October 20, 2023 at 2:29 pm

    May the add of polyquaternium and CAPB with reducing glucoside will give better product.

    • AlissaNap23

      October 20, 2023 at 7:12 pm

      Thanks I will try that!

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