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Benchmarket reproduction fail
Hi. I hired a experienced formulator to make an eye cream with a texture similar to this one from Shiseido:
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Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Eye Cream: WATER(AQUA/EAU)･HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE･MINERAL OIL (PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM/HUILE MINERALE)･GLYCERIN･BUTYLENE GLYCOL･PARAFFIN･MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX(CERA MICROCRISTALLINA/CIRE MICROCRISTALLINE)･POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIISOSTEARATE･SQUALANE･GLYCERYL OLEATE･SODIUM GLUTAMATE･SODIUM PCA･DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL･CARNOSINE･BEESWAX(CERA ALBA/CIRE D’ABEILLE)･POLYETHYLENE･TOCOPHERYL ACETATE･PHYTOSTERYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE･CAFFEINE･PEG/PPG-14/7 DIMETHYL ETHER･SAPINDUS MUKOROSSI PEEL EXTRACT･UNCARIA GAMBIR EXTRACT･ANGELICA KEISKEI LEAF/STEM EXTRACT･CRATAEGUS MONOGYNA FLOWER EXTRACT･SANGUISORBA OFFICINALIS ROOT EXTRACT･PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT･CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT･SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE･ZIZIPHUS JUJUBA FRUIT EXTRACT･EUCHEUMA SERRA/GRATELOUPIA SPARSA/SACCHARINA ANGUSTATA/ULVA LINZA/UNDARIA PINNATIFIDA EXTRACT･SODIUM LACTATE･CURCUMA LONGA (TURMERIC) RHIZOME EXTRACT･SACCHARINA ANGUSTATA/UNDARIA PINNATIFIDA EXTRACT･CHLORELLA VULGARIS EXTRACT･ALCOHOL･TRISODIUM EDTA･TOCOPHEROL･SODIUM METABISULFITE･PPG-3 DIPIVALATE･LINALOOL･LIMONENE･CITRONELLOL･GERANIOL･ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE･BHT･ALPINIA SPECIOSA LEAF EXTRACT･CARBOMER･POLYSORBATE 20･PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1･PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7･ETHYLPARABEN･METHYLPARABEN･FRAGRANCE (PARFUM)･IRON OXIDES (CI 77492)･IRON OXIDES (CI 77491)･
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Although it’s an extremely thick and “rich” cream, it spreads very well and has any odor from the base at all.
After about 50 prototypes, our texture isn’t even near. 🙁
Some has a grainy texture, others don’t spready well and all of them have a bad odor even adding fragrance.
My formulator says the odor is because all A/O emulsifiers smell bad, but I think it’s also he doesn’t want to use petrolatum / mineral oil / polyethyelene etc. even after we said we have no problem with that at all!
I’m thinking about hiring a cosmetic formulator consultant in the US. We don’t have all suppliers in my country,, but we have Croda, Basf, Seppic, Evonik, Clariant etc.
Please, does anyone have a good name to suggest who could make what we want to?
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4 Replies
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What are you using instead of Mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecene, etc? Maybe you can tell us what your ingredientes are (without percentages), so we can check what can be causing the olor.
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I don’t know exactly, he’s a cosmetic chemist consultant and not showed the formula yet, but about 30% of Cetiol 5C, vegetable waxes and A/O emulsifiers.
Odor isn’t the only problem… the texture is tend to be matte and a bit wavy, like greey yogurt, while the bench is glossy and slick.
The bench from Shiseido and others that aren’t too diferent, like Estee Lauder, have polyethylene and petrolatum… but there’s no way he want to use that and I think this is the reason why our texture isn’t so beautiful.
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As @ketchito has pointed out, maybe more Formula information would be helpful. That ingredient list is pretty pricey and I imagine substitutions may have been made.
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A formulator who won’t use mineral oil or petrolatum when the client says those are fine to use, isn’t much of a formulator. There’s a weird trend in our industry of formulators calling themselves “clean” or “green” formulators. Which is fine from a marketing standpoint. But if they can’t use standard ingredients to emulate benchmarks, that is a significant hole in their skill set. This is what happens when someone takes a class from an organic beauty school and thinks it qualifies them to be a formulator.
Anyway, see the list of chemists on this forum and just be upfront about what you want. If they say they won’t work with petrolatum don’t work with them.
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