

ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 19, 2024 at 7:37 am in reply to: Polyquaternium 10 incorporation in a gentle cleansing gelIt might be the Arlypon TT salting out by the electrolytes from your surfactants (especially from CAPB). Now, why on earth to use such level of glycerin? Rather than using such level of a very hydrosoluble molecule that will rinse away without performing its magic (and depressing foam from your formula), you could focus on making a humecting and mild product.
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Natural oils are not only good for us but for our skin micriobiota. And when they feast with oils, they can release not so good compounds for our skin like oleic acid, which can be irritating for some people. Particularly, I wouldn’t use natural oils for sensitive skin.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 16, 2024 at 7:23 am in reply to: Polyquaternium 10 incorporation in a gentle cleansing gelYou need to add it at the start of the process into the vortex, with vigorous mixing, keeping it for some time till you see no granules. Alternatively, you can heat your water to around 60°C, since PQ-10 will mix better in warm water.
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You might have reached a gel-like consistency. Try reducing your NaCl and aim for a viscous fluid appearance.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 16, 2024 at 7:17 am in reply to: Is xanthan gum is good/suitable ingredient to thicken a SLES/COPB shampoo ?I haven’t seen a stable shampoo using xanthan gum. There are better options like HPMC. Now, a SLES/CAPB/NaCl system should thicken very well. What’s your anionic content (as total active)?
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I agree with @paprik. Also, why did you include Cocamidopropylbetaine in a leave in conditioner? No need for that, but very useful in cleansing systems.
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@belassi I also join in to the previous messages. I always enjoyed reading your comments, and I’m sure many of us are thankful for that. I wish your the best on your sell, and with your new projects.
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The cloudiness could be to bubbles themselves, but it can actually be your acrylates complaining for too much NaCl in your formula (they usually don’t get along very well).
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Perhaps you reached a gel-like consistency. It’s harder to remove air from gels than for highly viscous liquids. What’s the process you’re following to make your product?
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 13, 2024 at 7:53 am in reply to: Amodimethicone and Stearamidopropyl DimethylamineKeep in mind that cationic surfactants (like SAPDMA) are small molecules that diffuse better and mainly deposit by electrostátic interactions. Amodimethicone on the other hand is still a large molecule whose main deposition mechanism is hydrophobic -related. So they shouldn’t compete.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 8, 2024 at 7:11 am in reply to: Can Arginine function as a fixative in a leave-in conditioner?I’d start with a level of Behentrimonium around 1% w/w (if you’re using the 80% version, then it’d be 1.25%), and use a 1:4 retio with your fatty acid, which still give you a stable LGN. For the Arginine, never saw it in a conditioner and would be very worried to put it at 6%. Can you check what type of fixation is supposed to give in a cationic system? Your coco-caprylate might not be emollient enough. Are you trying to formulate a silicone-free product? Just asking because they’re kings in these type ofbproducts.
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There’s actuallt not much debate (only between influencers, I believe). Silicones are nor BIodegradable, but they are degradable. There’s quiere some literature about it.
When it comes to buil-up on hair, it’s either cationic polymers or their coacervates with anionic surfactants which are harder to remove than silicones, especially non charged silicones, which are the most used. Even the carged ones have a way not to build-up due to charge repulsion and their ability to rotate.
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Maybe this could help: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fchem.2020.582746/full
frontiersin.org
Complex Formation of Phytic Acid With Selected Monovalent and Divalent Metals
The formation of metal complexes with phytic acid is a complex process that depends strongly on the metal-to-ligand molar ratio, pH value and consequent protonation level of the phytate ligand as well as accompanying side reactions, in particular metal hydrolysis … Continue reading
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 6, 2024 at 4:32 pm in reply to: Formulating a Clarifying shampoo to remove buildupCarboxylates are actually very mild. Both SLS and SLES being as detersive as they are, have a hard time to completely remove PQ’s buildup. Your formula is more suitable for a sensitive skin/scalp, but if you want to remove buildup, you need the cavalry.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 6, 2024 at 7:48 am in reply to: Why is Avene Tolerance Hydra-10 Cream so effective?I’ve worked with biomaterials in the past and the term biomimetic in cosmetics is, wel….bio-B.S.
The formula you described is simple, and there are actually better performing formulas in the market. Please use a robust preservative system if you want to make something like that.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 2, 2024 at 7:22 am in reply to: Formulating a Clarifying shampoo to remove buildupFor buildup removal, rather than pH, it’s the strenght of your surfactants which preveils. There are even some papers discussing how even for SLES struggles to completel remove buildup caused by Polyquaternium-10.
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I’d add a chelant (like disodium EDTA) and keep the surfactant level to a minimum.
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Are you making an emulsion as guys from Blondme? The delivery system is very important.
Also, use different chelants (as they do), to stabilize your peroxide.
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ketchito
MemberJanuary 30, 2024 at 5:39 am in reply to: What causes precipitation in this shampoo formula?That’s strange. One thing I could suspect is that your microemulsion also has Cetrimonium chloride, and it might be reacting with your SLES. Else, I don’t know what could be happening. If that’s the case, switch to a microemulsion with a purely non ionic enulsifying system.
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ketchito
MemberJanuary 29, 2024 at 1:40 pm in reply to: Is minimal chemical in sunscreen make it efficacious?I agree with all the comments. Unfortunately, mineral (inorganic) sunblockers don’t actually reach the same level of protection than if you use organic filters. Keep in mind also that both inorganic filter’s main Mode of action is by absorbing UV rays (same as with organic filters). In my experience, mixing both organic and inorganic filters, along with antioxidants and other radical stabilizers, and a good emollient system to give better spreading/coverage, is a good base for a sunblocker. But as previously mentioned, there’s a lot of knowledge needed to get to a good performing and safe formula.
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What’s your benchmark?
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ketchito
MemberJanuary 25, 2024 at 8:31 am in reply to: What causes precipitation in this shampoo formula?Hi @abdullah, long time no see! Check if the precipitate that went to the top yesterday, will settle over time. I believe that will happen since it’s a lot of precipitate shown in your pics. Try one sample without salt and put it in the fridge, to see what happens ????
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1% of Tocopheryl acetato might be a bit too much. I wouldn’t go over 0.5%. Keep in mind that you still need something to stabilize your vitamin C. There are few patents on the subject.
Why did you blacklisted polymers? Does that apply also to natural polymers? Many polymers are now biodegradable, just in case.
A 5:1 or 10:1 ratio could actually give a sticy feel. I’d use mixtures of solubilizers, both to use less of each and prevent stickiness. There are also patents on the topic.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 13, 2024 at 7:46 am in reply to: Formulating a Clarifying shampoo to remove buildupIf you add a cationic polymer though, you’ll need to reduce your carbomer and add one of them as a slurry, with some amphoteric between them.
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ketchito
MemberFebruary 13, 2024 at 7:43 am in reply to: Formulating a Clarifying shampoo to remove buildupIf you want it to be more glentle, add some amphoteric surfactant (like CAPB) or cationic polymer.