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General Emullium Millifera MB
Hi All,
I have a general question, I am formulating an anti blemish cream using emullium millifera mb. I do not have cetearyl alcohol and was wondering if I can use cetyl alcohol to improve viscosity. Or is a better option stearic acid? The info on Gattefosse suggests glyceryl stearate but I have not found a supplier here.
If the oil ratio is low at 9%, is it fine to use the emullium millifera at 3% and cetyl alcohol at 1.5% (or higher?). My concern is stability issues and not knowing how much I can increase each without increasing the oil percentage (coco caprylate).
I have included niacinimide at 4% and also wanted to confirm that the final ph of the product should be between 5.5-6 for it to be effective?
Once I have made the emulsion, my next formulation will be to work on including salicylic acid.
Please keep the feedback simple to understand, I am still studying skincare formulation, unfortunately not cosmetic chemistry. I have doubts and many projects to complete as I learn.
Thank you appreciate any insights you have.
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7 Replies
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first of all - I think you are asking about Emulium Mellifera MB? If so - it doesn’t make much difference whether you use cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol - both should help thicken and stabilize the formula. However, from my experience, I would like to suggest adding another stabilizer - Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. It may be difficult without it 😉 0.3-0.4% is enough.
I would increase the amount of Emullium Mellifera (to 4%) and reduce the amount of alcohol - the emulsion will be lighter and more pleasant (especially for oily and acne-prone skin).
pH around 5.5 for niacinamide should be ok 🙂
Introducing (or more specifically dissolving) salicylic acid may not be so easy - what are you planning?
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Hi Justnya,
Thank you for the helpful feedback.
Initially, I wanted to formulate with salicylic acid, however that is more advanced and I opted not too at this stage.
If I may ask are you a cosmetic chemist? Can I please ask your thoughts on a product idea I have? Considering whether it’s feasible or not. If you agree, am I able to message you privately?
Kind regards
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Hello,
I’m a cosmetics technologist, I don’t know everything, but I’ll be happy to help as much as I can 🙂
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While cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and stearic acid are all structuring agents, I believe you’ll get a better lamellar phase using cetyl alcohol (that might be the resonancias why the Emullium you’re using has it as part of their formula.
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Hi Ketchito
That is a great point, thank you.
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Hi Ketchito
Can stability and preservation testing be completed at an affordable price? I am very surprised at the cost and wonder how do indie brands get started? That is without a family inheritance 😅
Appreciate if you have any insights to share.
Thank you
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Hi! I’m my country, government requires you to show stability studies to sell your products, and that’s done with at least a dedicated oven set at 37-40°C. That actually helps you check if there’s something wrong with your formula or not. You can also run some calculations to check if the amount and type of structuring agent is in good proportion with your emulsifier, to have a stable system, but at this point, the heat stability is needed for you. You can find second hand ovens for that purpose online.
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