Graillotion
Forum Replies Created
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As someone who has been mentored by two of the most brilliant people to have graced this forum, for many years, I can only express the extreme gratitude for the gift those mentors have given me. I can also say, mentoring is no small undertaking…..as both of these brilliant men took thousands of hours of their time, to invest in me. Why? I can never guess, beyond their extreme generosity. I now consider them, two of my closest friends.
I did not get to choose my mentors. My mentors chose me. The Master chooses the grasshopper.
Neither of my mentors currently frequent the forum. 🙁
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I just checked my e-mails from my lead mentor….. There are 5,568 lengthy e-mails between the grasshopper and the Master. He was what I would describe as the PhD amongst the PhD’s. How lucky am I. Many of those early e-mails went way over my head…but over the years I was able to grasp all the concepts….even if they took a while to soak in. (I always wanted him to call me grasshopper…but usually he called me ‘dumbass’.) ???? I read them at some level almost every day, as G-mail has some really nice search options…which allow me to find past conversations on topics of current interest.
The first mentor, his PhD focused on pharmacognosy (the branch of knowledge concerned with medicinal drugs obtained from plants or other natural sources), and phytochemistry (the branch of chemistry concerned with plants and plant products). This allowed me to work towards natural aspects without falling for mommy blogger lore, and the host of fake ingredients with no efficacy.
The second Mentor was the perfect balancing bifecta…. a chemist plus a dermatologist. This allowed practical chemistry to be applied to skincare. I was truly blessed. This chemist….has at least as many conversations, but the format is different….so I don’t know how to count his conversations.
Good Luck.
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Let me just reiterate what Microformulation mentioned, the search bar is a valuable tool. Much can be learned with the search bar. As with any forum, not all contributors have the same value, so some discretion is required.
I’ll be the first to say….I have searched and read EVERY SINGLE comment EVER made, by several of the contributors. If searching preservation….of course search for Dr Geis’s comments. Want amazing industry hacks… and experience….hard to beat Chemical Matt…..so on and so forth.
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As someone that has spent WAY TOO MUCH TIME in the deo space…. I would conclude from that INCI…that they mainly are trying to broaden their marketing platform and get a leg up on the competition. As someone that has looked at various odors, from feet, to ‘Old people’ smell, to BO….the actives are somewhat different between them. Hence, I would say the product illustrated is simply safe in most regions, but certainly not broad spectrum, like what I worked on.
I wanted to be able to get diabetic foot odor, old people smell, and BO….in one product. Granted my INCI might be a bit longer. ????
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These guys have a 5 gram MOQ…but shipping can be high.
All orders 1-500 grams have the same initial shipping cost….so either load up….or get a few other fun things. They have a crazy amount of fun items to play with.
I should add….they use DHL…you should have it….in 5 business days.
Aloha
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Eumulgin SG) (myskinrecipes.com)
myskinrecipes.com
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Eumulgin SG)
emulsifier with good performance It is commonly used in skin cream, lotion and sunscreen formulas.
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You are asking a lot of the Mommy blogger resellers… Typically they do not even know which way is up. I suspect I know which one you are having the experience with, as of late, they have been sending fully rancid oils to their customers. (I help out on a beginner forum…so I hear things.) I have quizzed them/her (owner) numerous times, and the only metric they use is profit.
I mean how ironic would it be….to expect a reseller to know how to handle or test a lipid, if on the same shelf they have Leucidal products and Geogard products, feigning as acceptable?
Assuming you are in the USA there is only one repacker I would purchase small amounts from. (I categorize Jedwards as a little bit larger amount, hence excluding them from the conversation.) That would be Simply ingredients. The owner is an industry expert and cosmetic chemist. I don’t think she would mind if I shared a couple sentences, she has shared with me a few months ago. Here is her direct quote:
“Unfortunately, most companies don’t buy expensive oils. They’re viewed as commodities. It’s really unfortunate because I don’t think they are. 🙁 Expensive oils and stable oils cost money. I actually conduct peroxide and anisidine testing on my oils, routinely, to check for rancidity.”
*** Actually since you don’t see the whole message…. She is not checking for rancidity…but the very beginning of the process of rancidity starting. Rancidity is like a snowball rolling down hill and picking up speed. So she is checking if the process has been started!!!
There you see the tests that should be performed periodically. Is the company you purchased from doing this… I would wager my monthly wage… THEY ARE NOT! (I am retired and do not collect money from the government ????.)
Bottom line… buyer beware! There is a good option, you just have to choose to execute it. Granted SI does not have a vast array of lipids…but once you understand lipids and FA profiles….you quickly realize that a handful of oils…can cover all your needs. I formulate almost extensively out of her collection. Living in Hawaii….I do (for claim) need to use a little Mac Nut oil, and Kukui. ????
You have been enlightened….go forward with the best.
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Repackers are often started by beginner cosmetic enthusiast who have just enough acumen to know they’ll never make money selling cosmetics…. but beginner formulators are an absolute gold mine. Never forget this…when you evaluate their wares.
When I come across a higher-level intellect on the forum….I often privately encourage them to take this road…as it is sorely lacking in the industry.
I mean one of the biggest repackers….is a total front for a company that sells fake $h!+. ????
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Not that I should ever add on to a Dr Phil comment…but two of the ingredients, performance will be very tied to pH…which you did not mention. 🙂
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Never worked with it…but have heard that Tragacanth Gum….likes to limbo with pH. 🙂
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With shipping…all the variables are out of your control. Your issue is…what makes a whipped product whipped…is trapped air. That is difficult to keep in place. As your product is exposed to heat and vibration, slight melting starts to commence…your whipped in air will escape.
You have two options. 1) The one I see beginners use….is not selling during the hotter months of the year. 2) increase the melt point of your ingredients. This will give nominal benefit. As someone that worked for a shipping company in my youth, the temps the packages go through….is inhumane. ????
Good Luck.
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Might take a look at C10-18 Triglycerides. It is an interesting ingredient.
When I was working on an emulsified body butter….I was able to get a good butter like texture, using GMS with other thickeners…fatty alcohols and waxy esters. (I use a 95% mono version of GMS.)
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Might tag in the expert… @PhilGeis
I think that concern is mainly inhalation…but I am not an expert. Always memba….concept you are concerned with…is produced by the human body. ???? Have not seen such stickers…on ????.
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You can create reasonable stability testing at home…with centrifuge, incubator and freezer.
PET is a ‘No-Go’ at home. Trust me…you want bona fide PET test result for your lawyer to keep on hand. ????
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Am I on drugs….or did you swap the triethyl citrates for way more vitamin E than should be in a formula? ????
Do a knock out…. remove the EO’s and reduce the vitamin E to .2%.
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Also as knock out…. make a small throw away batch…with no preservative. Sometime that can be the culprit…. If it doesn’t irritate…then switch up the preservation….but probably in my earlier guesses.
BTW without the triethyl citrate…you have zero actives… What are you trying to accomplish?
ZR only absorbs odor…not really a bactericide.
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Sorry…keep noticing things… Do you really have Vitamin E….twice?
BTW… I’d probably start from scratch… guessing even if this doesn’t irritate…. not going to be overly effective?
What was your final pH.
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I worked for both UPS and USPS during my college years…. NEVER ONCE….read a sticker on a box. ???? (Maybe I should add…. and was never ever told….to read a sticker on a box! ???? )
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You’re funny. Ever seen a UPS truck with an air conditioner? (Other than leaving the door open on a cold day.)
Just for fun….look up the melt point between cetyl and behenyl alcohol. 🙂
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Unfortunately….they left the million dollar barn door open. There will still be essentially no barrier to entry. ???? I couldn’t have been more upset with this legislation….entirely for that reason. Still gonna be…. ???? in the USA…under a million.
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If you live in the USA…it is not a requirement … Just prudent. We still operate in a cometic ‘Wild wild West’ here. ???? or maybe…. ????
We have an essentially unenforceable mandate from the FDA….to produce a ‘SAFE’ product.
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Dang @Perry44 …. we need a ‘Like’ button. ????
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If you don’t get the performance, you were hoping for…once you get the irritation in line… try knocking the pH down to 3.8 and see how you like it. ???? This is a picture….taken in one of the leading products in this space.
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And………is has ever so much nicer looking INCI than: Hydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride ????
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I’m a little slow to the party…. Are you still fond of Glyceryl Glucoside?
Is this stuff crazy expensive everywhere? I see the Thai place has it. No other USA repackers…that I am aware of.
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I guess…. then the question to be asked…is what is the value of the overall shea market?