Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Replicate shea butter texture

  • Replicate shea butter texture

    Posted by JKuhlr on February 27, 2024 at 6:24 am

    Hello, seeking some advice for a body butter formula for personal use. I have skin issues with certain lipids, fatty acids and esters so my options are very limited.

    I’m attempting to replicate the texture of shea butter using the few ingredients I know are safe, currently ceresin, capric triglyceride, squalane and octyldodecanol.

    So far, my formulation attempts have had the consistency of peroleum jelly with lower percentages of ceresin, and shoe polish at higher percentages.

    Is there an oil-soluble ingredient I can add to help with the texture? I’ve also considered using water, glycerine and some type of gum(all safe) to get a more creamy rather than oily feel, but my chemistry knowledge is insufficient to put all these together.

    JKuhlr replied 1 month, 3 weeks ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    February 27, 2024 at 11:50 am

    You will want to add another wax builder with divergent melt point to that, like rice bran wax, castorwax, carnauba, synthetic wax (similar to ceresin but builds better); offset by cutting back the ceresin. Plus add a small amount of lipid surfactant such as lecithin or a polyglyceryl ester such as polyglcyeryl-3 diisostearate or polyglyceryl-6 oleate. Some folks have lecithin sensitivity so be aware of that.

    • JKuhlr

      February 27, 2024 at 5:14 pm

      Thanks for the advice, this is very helpful. What role do the surfactants play? My chemistry knowledge is very rudimentary, but I’m enjoying everything I’m learning so far.

  • Graillotion

    February 27, 2024 at 2:12 pm

    Might take a look at C10-18 Triglycerides. It is an interesting ingredient.

    When I was working on an emulsified body butter….I was able to get a good butter like texture, using GMS with other thickeners…fatty alcohols and waxy esters. (I use a 95% mono version of GMS.)

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