I tried a formula by IPCS but it left my armpits red and itchy

Formulating

I tried a formula by IPCS but it left my armpits red and itchy

Posted by Rhys on February 24, 2024 at 1:40 am

Hi there,

I have recently been trying a number of different formulas that have been performant but have left my armpits red and itchy. I decided to go back to basics and try the formula by the Institute of Personal Care Science and got the same result. Disclaimer, I didn’t follow the formula exactly. I added Zinc Ricinoleate 3% in Phase B and used a few similar products instead of buying new ones; Such as Xanthan Gum instead of Cosphaderm X-soft. The altered Formula I used below. I would love your thoughts to what I might be doing wrong. There is also a Youtube clip of them making the deodorant. Thanks heaps! 🙂

https://youtu.be/1Q_1fSps4Qs?feature=shared&t=276

Altered Formula:

Phase: A - W/W: To 100 - Water

Phase: B - W/W: 5.0 - Glycerin BP - Substituted for Glycerin from AWO

Phase: B - W/W: 0.4 - Cosphaderm X-soft (Cosphatec) - Substituted for Xanthan gum from AWO

Phase: C - W/W: 1.5 - Montanov 68 (Seppic)

Phase: C - W/W: 1.5 - Dermofeel Sensolv (Evonik) - Substituted for Isoamyl Laurate from New Directions

Phase: C - W/W: 5.0 - Citrol AI (Jungbunzlauer) - Substituted for Vit E from AWO

Phase: D - W/W: 0.45 - Lavender essential oil - Substituted for Fractionated Coconut Oil from AWO

Phase: D - W/W: 0.05 - Dermofeel Toco 70 (Dr Straetmans)

Phase: D - W/W: 1.5 - Euxyl K712 (Schulke) - Substituted for sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate from New Directions

Phase: E - N/A - pH adjuster

To lower pH, use the acid solution (Citric acid 50%)

Product sources

https://www.awo.com.au/glycerine/

https://www.awo.com.au/xanthan-gum/

https://www.newdirections.com.au/100-ml-Silicone-Alternative-Naturally-Derived

https://www.awo.com.au/vitamin-e-natural-mixed-tocopherols-70/?sku=V0015-0-100ML&gad_source=1

https://www.awo.com.au/fractionated-coconut-mct-oil/?sku=M0034-0-1L&gad_source=1

https://www.newdirections.com.au/epages/newdirections.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/newdirections/Products/RMPVA100SODIBENZ

https://www.newdirections.com.au/epages/newdirections.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/newdirections/Products/RMPVA100POTASORB

Rhys replied 1 month, 4 weeks ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

Graillotion

Member
February 24, 2024 at 2:50 am
Am I on drugs….or did you swap the triethyl citrates for way more vitamin E than should be in a formula? 😳

Do a knock out…. remove the EO’s and reduce the vitamin E to .2%.
- This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
- This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
- This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
- This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
- Graillotion
  
  Member
  February 24, 2024 at 2:55 am
  Also as knock out…. make a small throw away batch…with no preservative. Sometime that can be the culprit…. If it doesn’t irritate…then switch up the preservation….but probably in my earlier guesses.
  
  BTW without the triethyl citrate…you have zero actives… What are you trying to accomplish?
  
  ZR only absorbs odor…not really a bactericide.
  - This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
  - This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
  - This reply was modified 2 months ago by Graillotion.
  - Graillotion
    
    Member
    February 24, 2024 at 3:02 am
    
    Sorry…keep noticing things… Do you really have Vitamin E….twice?
    
    BTW… I’d probably start from scratch… guessing even if this doesn’t irritate…. not going to be overly effective?
    
    What was your final pH.
  - Rhys
    
    Member
    February 25, 2024 at 12:55 am
    
    Ok thanks for the suggestion. I’ll try without the preservative and see if that helps. There are 2 actives. Triethyl citrate and Zinc Ricinoleate. A preventive and reactive method. The final ph was 5.
    - Graillotion
      
      Member
      February 25, 2024 at 12:58 am
      
      If you don’t get the performance, you were hoping for…once you get the irritation in line… try knocking the pH down to 3.8 and see how you like it. 😅 This is a picture….taken in one of the leading products in this space.
- Rhys
  
  Member
  February 24, 2024 at 10:17 pm
  
  Hey! No sorry, my bad! That was a copy and paste error. I substituted Dermofeel Toco 70 with Vitamin E. Citrol AI was Triethyl citrate supplied by Trulux. https://trulux.com/products/triethyl-citrate
Onur

Member
February 24, 2024 at 9:34 am

Hey, wishing you a speedy recovery!

You might want to remove the preservatives and switch up your deodorant to something like Zinc Ricinoleate (maybe add a bit of rice bran wax to mimic Triethyl citrate’s effects). Then give it another patch test to see if these are what’s causing the issue. I’d also throw some Histidine to the formula for a better toleration.
- Rhys
  
  Member
  February 25, 2024 at 1:01 am
  
  Thanks Onur, i’ll give that a try! There is already Zinc Ricinoleate in the formula, but may have been missed as it was in the paragraph before I listed the formula.
Juggsy

Member
February 26, 2024 at 4:26 am

You didn’t formulate the IPCS formula @Rhys you altered a formula and any changes made, especially ones where you are changing the main materials you will change the outcome. it even says of the formulation sheet that testing should be done. You should not really have been testing on inner forearm before even thinking about putting it under your arms.

But you cannot say you made an IPCS formula when you didn’t. You altered an IPCS formula and had a fail.
IPCS formula:
- Rhys
  
  Member
  February 27, 2024 at 4:57 pm
  
  That’s fair. I wasn’t blaming IPCS or trying to discredit them. I love what they do and all the tips they offer. I just want tips of fixing what I have done. I made it clear in the post that I alerted the formula, but I understand the title is misleading. Is there a way to change the post title?