Forum Replies Created

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  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 21, 2024 at 9:30 pm in reply to: What is causing my cream to do this? (pic)

    The reason people are asking for temps…. the behenyl alcohol in your formula will not melt…until just about 85C…hence the mfg recommendation to heat to this mark.

    Cut the butters to a combined total of 1%.

    You don’t need fatty alcohol and stearic in the same formula. They are both thickeners…and generally the fatty alcohols are more elegant.

    With M 202 you should add a water gelling aspect…and a co-emulsifier. Typically an anionic one is used, but cationic will also work…as long as you craft the formula to handle it.

    Add dimethicone to the formula…it will reduce the soaping.

    You have no esters…consider adding them…so it feels nice.

    Good Luck

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 20, 2024 at 6:03 pm in reply to: Vitamin C serum
  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 16, 2024 at 10:59 pm in reply to: fragrance oils not for fragrance mists

    I am not an expert…but I’d guess it contains a formaldehyde/releasing agent. It is frowned upon to aerosolize that ingredient….as inhalation is its concern.

    Just a guess though.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 13, 2024 at 3:30 pm in reply to: How can a formula be “water free” and contain HA?

    Here is the products real names…and suppliers/mfg’s.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 13, 2024 at 3:26 pm in reply to: How can a formula be “water free” and contain HA?

    Yes….

    In the pursuit of trying to create/find a humectant that can be used in anhydrous products…. the industry has gotten creative.

    😅

    Hyaluronic Acid, Oleo-HA | Lotioncrafter

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 12, 2024 at 4:39 am in reply to: Queries about emulsifiers

    At least for me, it is a little hard to understand what you are asking.

    Emulsifiers are necessary evils….so you use them at the inclusion rate that gets the job done. Increasing them beyond the needed amount generally detracts from the product. Generally, one looks at the size of the oil phase, and determines how much to use to emulsify it. Not all emulsifiers are created equal….some are quite potent in small amounts….others need a pretty reasonable amount, to do the same job.

    I guess what I’m saying….impossible to answer the vague question without more information.

    Good Luck.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 11, 2024 at 5:29 pm in reply to: Can I alter lotion formula to make emulsified body butter?

    It is very much a mommy blogger topic….when they discuss the water percentage. Water in cosmetics is always just the leftover. You can make a solid product…with 97-98% water.

    That being said…. I do make a pretty delightful emulsified body butter. It has the highest natural oil/butter content of anything I make…. 13% if I recall. You don’t necessarily need to add plant butters to a body butter….to make it awesome….as they are the lowest form of oil…mainly stearic and oleic fatty acids. You can easily just thicken the nicest of oils…to make your butter. I only use two butters in my formulations… Illipe, and Murumuru. The wonderful aspect of Murumuru….is it is almost totally devoid of stearic acid….hence will not cause all the nasty issues that come with high stearic ingredients like shea. In my e-butter…I use 3% butter…and the balance as nice oils.

    1) Why so much glycerin? Can’t imagine that feels good….without the emollients to detacify that much G? In cosmetics… ‘more’ …. is rarely better…in fact, usually more is worse. If you aren’t getting the moisturization you need at 4%…then add a second humectant that works a little differently.

    2) For thickening your lotion formula… Just add fatty alcohols… cetearyl, cetyl, or behenyl. You can blend…or use one…your choice. Start with 3.5%….see what viscosity you get…and move on. Other thickeners to consider would be GMS and C10-18 Triglycerides (linked).

    Good luck.

    Thank you for preserving properly as a beginner. It is appreciated by all. (Consider adding a chelate as well. 😉 )

    Butter Pearls ™ (simply-ingredients.com)

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 10, 2024 at 9:47 pm in reply to: The necessity of buffering Geogard Ultra

    I guess I’d be far more concerned with how will you preserve the product…vs messing around with drifting pH from Geogard U.

    How do you propose to pick up Gram negatives?

    Use a proper chelate…and a proper preservative….issue solved. 🙂

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 4 days ago by  Graillotion.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 3, 2024 at 2:30 pm in reply to: Finding it Difficult to Source Ingredient! Help!

    These guys are known for selling ANY size.

    Granted there are several variations being sold….so you will need to seek clarification from them.

    Adipic Acid/neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer (myskinrecipes.com)

    Looks like KCI Limited also sells it…maybe they have a smaller MOQ?

    Good Luck.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 17, 2024 at 1:20 am in reply to: Elegant water gelling agent for cationic emulsions……

    Seems like the only place I can get small MOQ on PQ-37 is out of Thailand.

    I was hoping for some electrolyte tolerance….and possibly this is a concern with PQ-37?

    What do you think of any of the 3rd banana option below? Who would you pick….haptics / electrolyte tolerance / enhanced emulsion stability …. this is what I can get small MOQ.

    Solagum Tara

    HEC

    HP Starch (Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate)

    Guar cat?

    @chemicalmatt

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 16, 2024 at 3:08 pm in reply to: Elegant water gelling agent for cationic emulsions……

    It is actually an emulsified deo. Since the pH is in the 3’s…. I was having issues with run of the mill emulsifiers. So, after lots of research, I went with a Montanov type….and 1% of active cationic….and found the perfect balance.

    However…I am trying to parley this into a face cream as well. I got some leakage when I went to the more intense face cream formula….so want to add a water gelling agent…and see if this fixes issues. The deo had a kiss of Monolauren….and maybe that kiss of low HLB….is the missing link….to prevent my issue.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 15, 2024 at 4:12 am in reply to: Queries about emulsifiers

    You understand with the lack of information you have given…it is like asking us to guess what color your shirt is.

    Only formula bones can help.

    You are already at 31% emulsifier to oil phase….typically this should be beyond enough….however…you did not let us know what emulsifier/s…. So, I guess I’ll guess? Nope. 😂

    If you are using legitimate and compatible emulsifiers….and are having stability issue…. I think your problems are elsewhere.

    Always remember…. process can be as important as ingredients.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 12, 2024 at 8:22 pm in reply to: Can I alter lotion formula to make emulsified body butter?

    Umh… GMS will be profoundly different….than GMS + PEG100 ! 😉

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 12, 2024 at 3:53 pm in reply to: The necessity of buffering Geogard Ultra

    Here is another. If you are not in the US….then search under some of the synonyms.

    Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate – Essential Labs

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 12, 2024 at 3:50 pm in reply to: The necessity of buffering Geogard Ultra

    Where is your area? The beginner sites tend to sell it under the wrong name. Here are some USA links:

    TSGD (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate) | MakingCosmetics

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 12, 2024 at 3:46 pm in reply to: Can I alter lotion formula to make emulsified body butter?

    BTW…. Like any pro….I would RARELY recommend an e-bay. ETSY or Amazon seller. But if you are in the ‘know’ …. there are actually a few good/reputable sellers. The one I linked….is one of them!

    Also here is a link for an excellent chelate that should support your ethos.

    TSGD (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate) | MakingCosmetics

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 12, 2024 at 3:36 pm in reply to: Can I alter lotion formula to make emulsified body butter?

    Aloha Act 3.

    When you thicken something….that can result in very different haptics….thick is not always ‘thick’. Meaning…. you can make paste…or you can make butter.

    GMS (sans the Peg 100) is quite natural…even used widely in cooking. I found it was one of the better thickeners for making a butter like texture. I’ll link a superb version for you…as most of the mommy suppliers sell a 40-45% version…and pretend it is what you want. 😂

    Sorry…. can never leave ‘well enough’ alone. Please reconsider the aloe…that is nothing but over hyped bug food. I meant something like propanediol (plenty of natural versions sold) , or even building off of betaine or other osmolytes. Even sorbitol or Xylitol (Birtch only) would be better choices than the green goblin.

    1.0 lb Glycerol Monostearate GMS Emulsifier• Thickener• Stabilizer. Vegan | eBay

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 11, 2024 at 5:41 pm in reply to: The necessity of buffering Geogard Ultra

    I would say… NO preservatives are natural. Find me ONE…that is not synthesized in a lab. The ones that are sold to the gullible as natural….simply paid a bribe…to have their lab synthesized chemical….certified as ‘natural’. 😂

    You probably won’t find too many on this site…that will sing “Kum ba yah” with you for all those agencies with their hand out….and with ZERO focus on safety. This group tends to tick with what is safe (you know….science) …not what some group (often lacking knowledge or common sense) chose as their ethos.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 11, 2024 at 5:36 pm in reply to: The necessity of buffering Geogard Ultra

    You need the chelate….just a good one.

    EDTA is of course king…but sometimes the granola folk don’t like it cus of biodegradable rate. Hence GLDA is your next best choice.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 11, 2024 at 5:34 pm in reply to: The necessity of buffering Geogard Ultra

    Go with the EHG combo. Tends to be slightly less disruptive to the emulsion than the CG version.

  • Dr Geis, that would be the same answer as any product containing salicin. 🙂

    Actually….Pharma’s response…I found interesting….as he was always into TCM…and Eastern remedies with historical longevity. He always encouraged me to work with Frankincense, myrrh…and of course his ‘precious’ …. ginger. 🙂

  • The answer to tackiness…with this product…and any….

    1) Use less of it

    2) Add some butylene glycol to the formula

    3) Add any light weight ester…you know the drill… IPP, IPM, IL…etc… (D5 😅)

    Good luck.

  • The why @PhilGeis …. It has been around as long as Frankincense and Myrhh. You might have heard it under the name of ‘Balm of Gilead’. (However,….I think most people are using a slightly different species…than the one used in ancient times.)

    I tried to ask Pharma about it many years ago …and it was a trigger…and only got a religious tirade for an answer. 😉 My own research…. it was difficult to come up with the definitive ‘active’. (I moved on.) They do contain … Salicin. (Of course….much better ways to get that. 😅 )

    Aloha.

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by  Graillotion.
    • This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by  Graillotion.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 2, 2024 at 3:24 pm in reply to: Preservative for Shea Whip Butter ?

    .1% will be quite a plenty, on the ROE or E. Don’t get caught up in internet lore….or E will do the opposite of what you want…as level rise.

    If you are making for yourself…and keeping it away from any splash-in water…or high humidity bathrooms… microbial preservation would be optional. If you are consider selling…. Always remember….customers are utterly filthy….and NEVER follow directions. Hence, keep that in mind…as well as how good your insurance is. If you add a preservative….you might be putting yourself on an island. Just depends on your customer target. We are assuming no added bug-food.

  • Oil will only solubilize oil soluble aspects. It is therefore recommended for beginners to use…as it rarely solubilizes the things they anticipate. 😉 This keeps society safe! (Can you imagine if they actually extracted some of those powerful ingredients???) As long as they can get a little color and scent…they are more than happy. 😀

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by  Graillotion.
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