Graillotion
Forum Replies Created
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It is very much a mommy blogger topic….when they discuss the water percentage. Water in cosmetics is always just the leftover. You can make a solid product…with 97-98% water.
That being said…. I do make a pretty delightful emulsified body butter. It has the highest natural oil/butter content of anything I make…. 13% if I recall. You don’t necessarily need to add plant butters to a body butter….to make it awesome….as they are the lowest form of oil…mainly stearic and oleic fatty acids. You can easily just thicken the nicest of oils…to make your butter. I only use two butters in my formulations… Illipe, and Murumuru. The wonderful aspect of Murumuru….is it is almost totally devoid of stearic acid….hence will not cause all the nasty issues that come with high stearic ingredients like shea. In my e-butter…I use 3% butter…and the balance as nice oils.
1) Why so much glycerin? Can’t imagine that feels good….without the emollients to detacify that much G? In cosmetics… ‘more’ …. is rarely better…in fact, usually more is worse. If you aren’t getting the moisturization you need at 4%…then add a second humectant that works a little differently.
2) For thickening your lotion formula… Just add fatty alcohols… cetearyl, cetyl, or behenyl. You can blend…or use one…your choice. Start with 3.5%….see what viscosity you get…and move on. Other thickeners to consider would be GMS and C10-18 Triglycerides (linked).
Good luck.
Thank you for preserving properly as a beginner. It is appreciated by all. (Consider adding a chelate as well. ???? )
Butter Pearls ™ (simply-ingredients.com)
simply-ingredients.com
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I guess I’d be far more concerned with how will you preserve the product…vs messing around with drifting pH from Geogard U.
How do you propose to pick up Gram negatives?
Use a proper chelate…and a proper preservative….issue solved. 🙂
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These guys are known for selling ANY size.
Granted there are several variations being sold….so you will need to seek clarification from them.
Adipic Acid/neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer (myskinrecipes.com)
Looks like KCI Limited also sells it…maybe they have a smaller MOQ?
Good Luck.
myskinrecipes.com
Adipic Acid/neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer
ผงแป้งปรับผิวสัมผัส ที่ใช้ทดแทน Silicone ในสูตรที่ต้องการความรู้สึกนุ่มลื่นบนผิว แต่ไม่ต้องการใช้Silicone ในสูตร
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Start your study with …. comparing the solubility of salicylic acid…and the salt forms….Salicylates.
Suddenly your eyes will open.
Enjoy the journey.
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Aloha…
First… ROE and Vit E….are not preservatives AT ALL (that is just mommy blogger lore that has refused to die….decade after decade). Sometimes as antioxidants, they are said to ‘preserve’ oils….or keep them from going rancid. So, you have to watch the lingo in cosmetics. Secondly….they would not be redundant with phenoxy…since they do not do anything in common with the latter. However…they might be redundant with each other…. albeit I use both…in all formulas that contain natural oils.
A little hard to answer your question….without knowing….is there ANY water at all in your product?
If you can clarify that….you can get better answers. ????
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If you are asking…is this a real thing…. YES.
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You need the chelate….just a good one.
EDTA is of course king…but sometimes the granola folk don’t like it cus of biodegradable rate. Hence GLDA is your next best choice.
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Go with the EHG combo. Tends to be slightly less disruptive to the emulsion than the CG version.
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Dr Geis, that would be the same answer as any product containing salicin. 🙂
Actually….Pharma’s response…I found interesting….as he was always into TCM…and Eastern remedies with historical longevity. He always encouraged me to work with Frankincense, myrrh…and of course his ‘precious’ …. ginger. 🙂
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The answer to tackiness…with this product…and any….
1) Use less of it
2) Add some butylene glycol to the formula
3) Add any light weight ester…you know the drill… IPP, IPM, IL…etc… (D5 ????)
Good luck.
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The why @PhilGeis …. It has been around as long as Frankincense and Myrhh. You might have heard it under the name of ‘Balm of Gilead’. (However,….I think most people are using a slightly different species…than the one used in ancient times.)
I tried to ask Pharma about it many years ago …and it was a trigger…and only got a religious tirade for an answer. ???? My own research…. it was difficult to come up with the definitive ‘active’. (I moved on.) They do contain … Salicin. (Of course….much better ways to get that. ???? )
Aloha.
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.1% will be quite a plenty, on the ROE or E. Don’t get caught up in internet lore….or E will do the opposite of what you want…as level rise.
If you are making for yourself…and keeping it away from any splash-in water…or high humidity bathrooms… microbial preservation would be optional. If you are consider selling…. Always remember….customers are utterly filthy….and NEVER follow directions. Hence, keep that in mind…as well as how good your insurance is. If you add a preservative….you might be putting yourself on an island. Just depends on your customer target. We are assuming no added bug-food.
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Oil will only solubilize oil soluble aspects. It is therefore recommended for beginners to use…as it rarely solubilizes the things they anticipate. ???? This keeps society safe! (Can you imagine if they actually extracted some of those powerful ingredients???) As long as they can get a little color and scent…they are more than happy. ????
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LG+ stands for Liquid Germall Plus
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LG+ stands for Liquid germal plus.
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LG+ stands for : liquid germall™ plus. aka: <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (and) Propylene Glycol
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Not sure how they will compare in price…but at least they are reputable….
They also carry several versions of the PVP/VA Copolymer
Ceteareth-25, Creamophor A25 (myskinrecipes.com)
myskinrecipes.com
water-oil binder It is designed to focus on the work of creating thickening formulas. Acts like a gel-maker, creating a gel texture.
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Sorry hehehhe….we might be quite conditioned….to think every newbie is chasing the magical pipe dream….of fresh squeezed herb = stellar preservative. ????
So here is what you have:
Phenoxy…strong on Gram -
Benz … good on Gram + ….especially around pH of 5
EHG …. penetration enhancer.
What do you don’t have….is strong YMF….yet. So first of all…you have done more than most….not saying rest on your laurels….but I think you can cover YMF….with one add-on…vs two.
However…if you want your pH as high as 6…. might as well just jump over to LG+ ?
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I was looking more at the aspect….of the human. ????
Would you want it on your skin? (hydroxamates)
Fekher…. the additiion of piroctone olamine should pick up dandruff nicely. ????
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…… As you should know…there is no definition of ‘natural’ in cosmetics….not by omission….but by intent.
So …. NATURAL… is pretty much whatever you can persuade (or purchase for a large fee) someone to believe is natural. ????
Hence, I consider there to be NO natural preservatives…..only lab produced chemicals. Not to say there is not a whole fake industry….whom for a hefty bribe will not certify your lab produced chemical as…. ‘Natural’. ????
If the natural folks ….. were true to form…they would stick with parabens…and especially formaldehyde…as I consider it the most natural of all the preservatives. But……… since it is all agenda and politics….anything goes. ????
However….once you grasp that they are all lab produced chemicals….it makes formulation much easier….because you focus on what works, and what is SAFE, …. vs someone else’s agenda!!!
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Caprylyl Glycol and EHG are somewhat interchangeable ‘penetration enhancers’. These are the part of the preservative, that allows the germ ‘killer’ to enter (penetrate cell membrane) the pathogen.
If you study hurdle technology….you will usually see ingredients (often glycols) that enhance penetration of the preservative. It creates a synergy….or makes the actual preservative….work better.
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ULP just went through a ‘Password’ upgrade. Forced all users to upgrade their password. I think if you’ll go through the steps of resetting your password,….and meeting the newer criteria….you will be back in. I know I had to add a special symbol….to my password….before I could access my account.
Good Luck.
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Just curious @PhilGeis your thoughts on hydroxamates in cosmetic preservatives? I know our good friend Pharma….could not string enough swear words together in English…to really show his utter displeasure for them… ???? (He always teased me, that I struggled with English as my first language, and as his fifth language, he was much more adept.)
He wrote me a lengthy blurb once…. that disparaged me for life…from using them.
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” Start with the assumption - suppliers are liars. Not quite right as claims are made by marketing folks who conveniently know nothing but claim everything.”
Ok, @PhilGeis that is one awesome ‘Geisism’…..and going into my collection. 🙂
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If you are asking how I look them up? I use material like those posted below. I also use the search bar…..and I have two world class mentors. Between those 4…I can get any information I need.
Oh…and of course….NO MARKETING MATERIAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! EVER…………