Stabilizing - Chemists Corner

Formulating

Stabilizing

Posted by Parisland on May 4, 2024 at 1:41 am

Hello, I was looking at the ingredients list for this serum and I notice that they are using Aristoflex avc, but Aristoflex avc is very sensitive to electrolytes and the formula is full of sodium ingredients. Can you please explain how do they stabilize the formula?

This is the list of ingredients:

Water/Aqua/Eau, Coconut Alkanes, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Wheat Amino Acids, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Berberis Vulgaris Root Extract, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Niacinamide, Cyclodextrin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyproline, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin

Thank you

Parisland replied 1 week, 4 days ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

Graillotion

Member
May 4, 2024 at 4:21 am
It would be helpful to know…if this was a product from a big company (who should know what they are doing). Or a small pretender brand.

In helping entry level people…I have found time after time…that they have destroyed their polymeric…but have no idea….cus they did not know how to evaluate/test that. It was just an ingredient, and they heard it was good, or saw a benchmark brand using it.

Since there are other gelling aspects in the formula….it could be conceivable that their AVC…is doing nothing…and they just adjust the HA quantity and molecular weight to get the desired viscosity.

I see it all the time in deo formulations…where beginner brands look around at what the big dawgs are doing….and see an ingredient that is used frequently, and they’ll add it to their product, even though the ingredient requires a low pH platform, and their platform is high pH. They simply are INCI cherry picking without having the knowledge to apply it.
- This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by Graillotion.
- This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by Graillotion.
- Graillotion
  
  Member
  May 4, 2024 at 4:28 am
  Based on the “who’s who” list of fake claim ingredients…I can speculate on the skill set of the formulator. 😂
  - This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by Graillotion.
- Parisland
  
  Member
  May 5, 2024 at 5:41 pm
  
  The serum is one of drunk elephant bestseller called B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum
  
  https://www.drunkelephant.com/collections/bestsellers/
ggpetrov

Member
May 4, 2024 at 6:01 am

I am wondering what is NOT included there 😂
Parisland

Member
May 4, 2024 at 5:33 pm

The serum is one of drunk elephant bestseller called B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum

https://www.drunkelephant.com/collections/bestsellers/

drunkelephant.com
Bestsellers
Bestsellers
jemolian

Member
May 5, 2024 at 7:44 pm

If the percentage is low enough, Aristoflex AVC would still be able to work fine.

I see that there’s AcquaCell in there? It works fine at 1% with AVC based on what I’ve tested since I’m still using the sample from time to time.

AcquaCell - INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract (and) Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (and) Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA
- Graillotion
  
  Member
  May 5, 2024 at 7:56 pm
  Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh….that sheds a whole new light on things. The NaPCA and lactate…came along for the ride at minuscule amounts with another ingredient. Was not added to the formula on its own! 🙂
  - This reply was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by Graillotion.
- Parisland
  
  Member
  May 6, 2024 at 2:24 am
  
  Thank you