Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating What is causing my cream to do this? (pic)

  • What is causing my cream to do this? (pic)

    Posted by aliceformulating on April 21, 2024 at 7:00 am

    I’m a new formulator and I’m struggling to get my face cream to have the perfect, thick texture.

    What is causing this formula to not melt on the skin? After I’m done rubbing it in, it leaves these waxy/fatty traces that are really hard to rub in/melt. Is it the stearic acid, the butters, the cetyl alcohol or something else?

    The formula is something like this:

    A: 70% water (no glycerin on this test because I run out, could this solve the issue?)

    B: 1% stearic acid

    4% shea butter

    4% mango butter

    8% thistle oil

    6% cetyl alcohol

    5% monatov 202 emulsifying wax

    and the rest is vitamin e, perservative etc etc

    I emulsify with a homogenizer.

    So grateful for any thoughts! 👋

    Graillotion replied 4 weeks ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • fareloz

    April 21, 2024 at 7:22 am

    It is stearic acid and cetyl alcohol, you have too much of them

    • aliceformulating

      April 21, 2024 at 8:27 am

      I tried going down to 2% cetyl alcohol, and 1% stearic acid. Still the same thing. Wondering if it might be the butters.

  • Abdullah

    April 21, 2024 at 7:54 am

    You mean those white things?

    Can you explain your preparation method and pH!

    Maybe you are not melting them properly before homogenization.

    • aliceformulating

      April 21, 2024 at 8:29 am

      I melt phase A and B in different beakers over hot water. The oil phase is completely melted, and i mix them together right away and then high sheer homogenize for at least 2-3 minutes before i continue hand stirring.

      • Abdullah

        April 21, 2024 at 7:43 pm

        To what degree c you heat them and what is the homogenization speed and batch size?

  • Graillotion

    April 21, 2024 at 9:30 pm

    The reason people are asking for temps…. the behenyl alcohol in your formula will not melt…until just about 85C…hence the mfg recommendation to heat to this mark.

    Cut the butters to a combined total of 1%.

    You don’t need fatty alcohol and stearic in the same formula. They are both thickeners…and generally the fatty alcohols are more elegant.

    With M 202 you should add a water gelling aspect…and a co-emulsifier. Typically an anionic one is used, but cationic will also work…as long as you craft the formula to handle it.

    Add dimethicone to the formula…it will reduce the soaping.

    You have no esters…consider adding them…so it feels nice.

    Good Luck

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