[gordof]

hi 

Well, it is not pure retinol but you can buy it in a solution of Almond oil on Spinnrad.de ( Mandelöl mit Vitamin A Palmitat, 30 ml kaufen (spinnrad.de) ). For homemade cosmetics, / smaller Trials this is an easily available product if you don’t mind the almond oil presence and don’t want to use the maximum allowed concentration of course . 

[gordof]

i could not have said it better 🙂 .

Launching something really innovative and letting it settle in the market is very difficult for smaller new brands because if you start to be Successful in the market (if you can not patent what you are doing) a bigger company will come and copy what you are doing to satisfy their users need for your new product. 

being innovative needs to be special in a way big Companys can not copy what you are doing either because you patented it or it is not manageable for a big structure to reproduce what you are doing( special ingredients only produced for you / Hand made Quantity and so on). 

Otherwise, you will need Marketing and nowadays Influencers to target a special group of people that will identify with your brand and the idea you are selling. like https://koparibeauty.com/ is doing.

In My experience nowadays either be very expensive or be Totaly neutral clear label Cosmos etc to attract groups that are willing to buy new stuff and try it. either because the stuff they have is not very good or because you need always to have the newest trend.  

[gordof]

hi 

Well, you are right in general and wrong in detail. in General, if your product is around a ph of 5 it is skin neutral and therefore will not influence the skin acid barrier. 

But for some ingredients acidic ph is not viable for example all Carbomeres will not give you any viscosity at a ph of 5 you need to be above 6 closer to 7 normally. although some ingredients will be destroyed by an acidic environment so your cream needs to be at a higher ph to stabilize that specific ingredient. 

The skin can handle ph up to 7.5-8 above it will not like it a lot. For the lower range, I would say you can use down to 4 some have even 3.5 in extremes. Just think about normal water from the tap the ph is variable from 8 to 5 depending on where you are living and the skin does not have problems with it if you shower every day. So pH is mostly important for development to stabilize a cream / your Claim ingredient. 

Although many modern conservation systems will need acidic ph of around 4.5-5-5 to work well. 

so you see as you said in general ph is clear from the start but in the end, many products need another ph because of the ingredient and the skin can handle that normally very well. 

the claim “ph skin neutral” is a claim that is made for years and years, does it relay help the skin? discussable you need to ask a dermatologist how big this impact on skin health would really be but for the customer, of course, it is an easy-to-understand claim way your product is better than one that is not skin neutral.

[gordof]

hi 

As you mentioned it is a Grey area like all cosmetics are. In the end, if Cosmetic products have a real effect it would be a Pharmaceutical product:wink:

Well, I guess a lot of what you can and can’t say on your Claims depends on the tests you performed with and for your product. if you have a Study that supports wrinkle reduction that is a fact you can talk about. If you don’t have any Study and you are just using materials that in other products show that they can reduce wrinkles that is probably a violation. all Claims need to Be Tested with your Product explicitly. Many companies don’t do that and they just claim what the supplier has tested with their raw material. 

These studies are expensive so many skip them and just claim what the supplier has tested. I am not sure about US regulations but in Europe that is no longer allowed for 3 or 4 years now, you have to perform the tests with your product or there needs to be really good evidence in literature and practice that if you use this raw material it will give what your claim says (glycerin Humidity for skin, etc).  

[gordof]

well, that depends on a lot of factors. can you give a little bit more information about your formulation? not all Perfumes/oils can be solubilized clear in lauryl glucoside so for Clarity, sometimes solubilizers are needed additionally

[gordof]

Ghita37 said:

So if cleanser is searched for three times more than cleansing oil this means that people in their research are not specifically looking for a cleansing oil they are just looking for a cleanser, correct? 

Oh good point here; thank you.So the google trend doesnt tell me if a person does a research because they are merely interested or because they in fact want ti buy and have a need, right? 

we are a contract manufacturer in Switzerland but we are working with some startups in the cosmetic industry. Some Contract manufacturers if they develop a product or a line for you can give you this kind of information as part of the development process. Analyzing Trends, raw materials, and so on is part of the R&D/ Marketing corabolation at least for me. 

[gordof]

Have a look at their portfolio Products: Kahlwax they have a very good alternative for beeswax with similar properties I used it in various vegan formulations and I like it a lot .

Megaveggie Wax

2227

Ofcours beegan sonds nice as well  

[gordof]

For a claim ingredient that is very good for moisturization, I can recommend 

HYDRACTIN®-LMF by Rahn AG - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

and 

Hydro-Gain™ von Lipoid Kosmetik AG - Körperpflegemittel & Kosmetik (ulprospector.com)

both have very good data and I used both with very good effects in cosmetic tests. 

Both are rather expensive if I remember correctly. so depends on how wide the range for product cost is. 

[gordof]

hi, we work with Mintel to analyze trends in the cosmetic industry / general trend analysis is Mintel.

Mintel: Global Market Research & Market Insight | Mintel.com

[gordof]

all of the mentioned are correct just the buffer amount of each of them is different. 

There is not one percentage that forms a buffer system the combination of Citric acid and Trisodium citrate forms the buffer and depending on the Variation of the concentration the buffer system can Buffer for more or less on the given ph Value.  so if you have ingredients that constantly strangle your ph like Urea for example you need more buffer if you don’t have any and just want to ensure a Slim line for the Specification or an Activ will only work at 5.4-5.6 you use only a smaller amount of both. 

[gordof]

Hi, I would not use a Kationic PQ 7 in an Anionic Base that can lead to big problems and foam will not really be better maybe skin feeling can be improved but is it worth the potential Problems? 

with 7 SLES and 1 % SLS you are already using very highly potent foaming Surfactants. if you don’t get enough maybe your base ingredients are eliminating the foam somehow. 

if you want to make a “finer” (smaller bubbles) foam you could use a Glutamate based Surfactant like Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate and its companions.

[gordof]

Depends 

Most use the thickening properties of the Tenside to thicken the formulation with salt. 
if you want to add additional thickeners you can either use Carbomers if you are free of any ions (Non-Ionic Tensieds). or Natural thickeners like Xanthan gum etc. 

[gordof]

hi 

for your questions: 
1: Cetearyl alcohol builds liquid crystal structures and stabilizes droplets wear GMS is an emulsifier that builds droplets of oil in water. 

2. The two products both give stability to a product but the way they do it is different wear Cetearyl alcohol stops droplets from building up bigger droplets GMS builds smaller droplets due to more emulsifier present until it is to much emulsifier. 
If you just use GMS that will not give you the same yield point for the formulation.

3.The soping effect depends heavily on the emulsifier system Cetearyl alcohol does not push soping in general, it is always depending on the given system. 

4. it does not do the same thing in a formulation as mentioned. One is an emulsifier the other is a Stability giving liquid crystalin structure builder.

Yes in some Formulations it can be beneficial to only use GMS because the skin feel can be better or the appearance of the creme is more the way you like it to be. But you can not make it a General rule for all formulations out there in fact most formulations don’t need another co-emulsifier like GMS but they need a Structure builder for long time stability.

[gordof]

Hi 

in general, if you are using Tensides / Emulsifiers close to the eye there is always the possibility of irritation. 

I don’t know exactly how harsh the PEG is that is used in this formulation (from your description not very good) but to reduce or prevent that effect use a Tenside /emulsifier that is better in regard to eye irritation. (it always depends on the customer as well some react very heavily while others don’t even notice) 

Most take something like Decyl Glucoside or Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, the mildest ones are normally  Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate and its relatives.

[gordof]

As Pharma said just add some Water Soluble Colour and add a 1 % Water solution of it on top of the product if it is Oil in water the Product will be colored over time if it is Water in oil Colour will stay at the top. 

[gordof]

Some change to Ethylsalicylate but it will in my experience with European authorities be banned next.  ( always going from smaller Molecules to bigger ones over time)

Depending on the effect that the Methylsalicylate is there for I would suggest different raw material alternatives. ( of course, your scent of the product will change A LOT sadly) 

For the Warming effect, I would use Vanillyl Butyl Ether or if you want to be more natural Capsaicin ( be aware of Restrictions and Heat sensitivity differences for different consumer groups and markets) 

For Pain reduction, you could use a smaller amount of Salicylic acid. sadly I don’t have any other ideas in that direction if you want to stay as a cosmetic product. 

the Ethylsalicylate will although have a reduced pain reduction property.

[gordof]

the main deodorant ingredients are ZInc Ricinolat and Antimicrobial Raw Materials like Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate

I would always go with zinc Ricinolate because it has a Scent absorption/binding activity and does not harm the Microbiome of the skin. 

Of course, you can just use some Other not so Allergic Perfum to cover the negative scent depending on the time you want the deodorant to be tested.

There is the possibility of using Triethylcitrat which is deactivating the deconstruction of sweat and therefore eliminates ba d scent as well.  

Combination of different areas, for example, Decalact Deo  (Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate, Triethyl Citrate, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Oil) are very helpful if you don’t want to eliminate only one threat.

[gordof]

hi from my experience Hair Conditioners are better the fewer ingredients they have. especially leave in conditioners. 

I think the number of conditioning agents is too high. 1 % Polyquarternium 10 + 0.25 Cetrimonium chloride + 2% Bethentrimoniumchloride seems to be a lot. 

For oils in that kind of product, I think they will limit the effect of the Conditioning agents if you want to use it for claim it’s okay but you didn’t need 7 %. Although I would use more fluid oils than shea butter and Palm Kernel oil (depending on the melting point of it). If you use buttertyp Fett for hair the conditioning effect will be limited because they will recrystallize and give very harsh feeeling. I would suggest using something like an Abyssinian oil would be much better if you want to stay natural in that regard of course silicones will be top-notch for hair conditioners after all

Further, the amount of Essential oils and Fragrance is very high for a hair care product, especially for Curly hair due to the high surface area the scent will be overwhelming, and it’s not very good for the Stability of the Product I would guess.
Of course, that depends on taste but I would say normal amounts would be a maximum of 1 %  maybe 1.5 % . normally I would use not more than 0,5 % in such a product.

I hope that helps somehow.  

[gordof]

hi 

maybe they help 

BEAUTYDERM HP by Sharon Laboratories Ltd - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

EmulsiFlow® EXE by AE Chemie - Personal Care & Cosmetics (ulprospector.com)

[gordof]

hi 

If you are using that high amounts of acid in your formulation I would think it may cores skin irritation over a longer time. although the taste of the product will be very sour… if this high concentration is needed for Effectiveness I can not comment on it due to not having that much experience in lip lightening. but after all, it seems to me just too high. 

do you have a benchmark ? or a Formulationen you orientated yourself on? 

It would be easier to see if there are some indications for the amount of acid. added. 

[gordof]

hi there I don’t think that an effect like in the picture is possible at all without color pigments (lipstick) 

in general, you could use skin lightening raw materials but I am not sure if they are even possible to use so close to the mouth and lips because of the danger of eating them you need to check your country’s regulations there very well. 

but you use already some of them with the koji acid ascorbic acid and glcolique acide. ( in general, I think your acid concentration is way too high whatever your goal may be it properly will lead to skin irritation in that concentration)

[gordof]

I would suggest looking into the Raw materials from Alchemy 

Oil Gelling - Alchemy Ingredients (alchemy-ingredients.com)

the work really nice has a very pleasant feeling and can if Processed correctly be clear oil gels with a lot of water inside so the price gets down, 

[gordof]

My biggest problem until Now was to Formulate an SPF 50 Sunscreen product with just ZnO2 as a sunscreen filter… it is possible in theory but the solution is rather hard to find the way that the Distribution of the Product influences the Spf is just horror… oh and it had to be an O/W emulsion not as it would be normal due to Stability and water resistance a W/O. Still Searching for some good solutions to that problem screening the market for Raw materials for better particle distribution. 

[gordof]

hi There 

I would say your Concentration of Carbopol is way too high1 % leads to Viscosity way above 50000 mpas 

Looking at the INCI list of the Benchmark i would say use 0,3 % Carbopol. to get a better Viscosity Profile. I would recommend checking the advice of your VP/VA Copolymer sublayer on how to use it and how much he would say should be used -20% for your kind of Product. you will get better results I would guess.

If you look at the INCI liste of the benchmark the PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil  is below the VP/VA copolymer so I would recommend dropping some of that 4 % seems to be a lot. 

For Styling products in general the best solution from my point of few is to use as less of all ingredients that are not the Styling Polymer as possible because all other ingredients will just limit the effect of your used polymer and therefore lower performance. 

[gordof]

I would assume it is the combination of Butters and Hard Waxes together with the Starch which helps with the rub-off. although Ceramide will give a pleasant feel afterward.