Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Hair leave in conditioner formula for moisturizing , too many ingredients?

  • Hair leave in conditioner formula for moisturizing , too many ingredients?

    Posted by Littlemisscurious on September 26, 2022 at 12:50 pm

    Please I’m trying to formulate a leave in conditioner for curly and coilyhair(4c), but I’ve been having trouble making moisturizing  while Also making it safe.

    please I would really appreciate feedback 🙏🏽

    This is the formula I put together 

    water phase

    fenugreek gel(aqua) 72.75%
    d panthenol 2%
    Polyquaternium-10 1%
    Vegetable glycerin   5%

    Centrimonium chloride 0.25%

    oil phase
    behentrimonium chloride 2%
    cetyl alcohol 6%
    palm kernel oil 4%
    Shea butter 3%

     cool down phase
    liquid germal plus as preservative 1%
    essential oils 2%
     Fragrance 1%

     

    M1234 replied 7 months, 3 weeks ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • gordof

    Member
    September 27, 2022 at 6:52 am

    hi from my experience Hair Conditioners are better the fewer ingredients they have. especially leave in conditioners. 

    I think the number of conditioning agents is too high. 1 % Polyquarternium 10 + 0.25 Cetrimonium chloride + 2% Bethentrimoniumchloride seems to be a lot. 

    For oils in that kind of product, I think they will limit the effect of the Conditioning agents if you want to use it for claim it’s okay but you didn’t need 7 %. Although I would use more fluid oils than shea butter and Palm Kernel oil (depending on the melting point of it). If you use buttertyp Fett for hair the conditioning effect will be limited because they will recrystallize and give very harsh feeeling. I would suggest using something like an Abyssinian oil would be much better if you want to stay natural in that regard of course silicones will be top-notch for hair conditioners after all

    Further, the amount of Essential oils and Fragrance is very high for a hair care product, especially for Curly hair due to the high surface area the scent will be overwhelming, and it’s not very good for the Stability of the Product I would guess.
    Of course, that depends on taste but I would say normal amounts would be a maximum of 1 %  maybe 1.5 % . normally I would use not more than 0,5 % in such a product.

    I hope that helps somehow.  

  • tecnico3vinia

    Member
    September 27, 2022 at 11:35 am

    Hi there! I’m also developing products for curly and coily hair. Some suggestions:

    1. You can decrease the Panthenol and Glycerin. I would use 1-2% maximum of each one of them.

    2. You already 2% percent of behentirmonium chloride and 1% of polyquaternium-10, so I wouldn’t use cetrimonium chloride. 

    3. I would also decrease the oils concentration. Think about 1-2% each too.

    4. I would decrease the essential oil concentration. Also ~1%.

    Happy formulating!

  • ketchito

    Member
    September 27, 2022 at 12:06 pm

    @Littlemisscurious Check always what big brands do. For a conditioner, there’s no need to use cationic polymers when you have cationic surfactants, so you can remove your PQ-10. Also, what you need to protect hair is lubrication and hydrophobicity, so Glycerin and Panthenol are not needed (your hair will balance its water content with or without them). Essential oils can be too irritating for a leave on, specially at that level. Also, silicons and esters are better conditioners and don’t weigth down hair as natural oils and butters do.

  • Littlemisscurious

    Member
    September 27, 2022 at 11:05 pm

    Gordof said:

    hi from my experience Hair Conditioners are better the fewer ingredients they have. especially leave in conditioners. 

    I think the number of conditioning agents is too high. 1 % Polyquarternium 10 + 0.25 Cetrimonium chloride + 2% Bethentrimoniumchloride seems to be a lot. 

    For oils in that kind of product, I think they will limit the effect of the Conditioning agents if you want to use it for claim it’s okay but you didn’t need 7 %. Although I would use more fluid oils than shea butter and Palm Kernel oil (depending on the melting point of it). If you use buttertyp Fett for hair the conditioning effect will be limited because they will recrystallize and give very harsh feeeling. I would suggest using something like an Abyssinian oil would be much better if you want to stay natural in that regard of course silicones will be top-notch for hair conditioners after all

    Further, the amount of Essential oils and Fragrance is very high for a hair care product, especially for Curly hair due to the high surface area the scent will be overwhelming, and it’s not very good for the Stability of the Product I would guess.
    Of course, that depends on taste but I would say normal amounts would be a maximum of 1 %  maybe 1.5 % . normally I would use not more than 0,5 % in such a product.

    I hope that helps somehow.  

    Thank you soooo much for your response!

    So about the conditioning agents being too many, which would you suggest I remove? Because the Behentrimonium chloride is there mainly for it’s conditioning benefits, but also as an emulsifier.
    So I’m guessing the centrimonium chloride?
    so if I take out the centrimonium chloride, will the ployquaternium-10 and Behentrimonium chloride in the suggested percentages suffice?

    as for the oils, I chose them specifically for their conditioning properties, but if they’ll limit the effect of the conditioning agents, I’ll definitely take them down a notch. And I’m trying to stay off silicones because my clients are very particular.

    I will take down the essential oils as well.

    yes your comment has been extremely helpful .

  • Littlemisscurious

    Member
    September 27, 2022 at 11:12 pm

    Hi there! I’m also developing products for curly and coily hair. Some suggestions:

    1. You can decrease the Panthenol and Glycerin. I would use 1-2% maximum of each one of them.

    2. You already 2% percent of behentirmonium chloride and 1% of polyquaternium-10, so I wouldn’t use cetrimonium chloride. 

    3. I would also decrease the oils concentration. Think about 1-2% each too.

    4. I would decrease the essential oil concentration. Also ~1%.

    Happy formulating!

    Oh hi!! How has your formulation been going?

    1. so panthenol 2% and glycerine 2% should suffice?
    2. will try it out. But are the percentages for the polyquaternium-10 and Behentrimonium chloride enough?
    3.will do
    4. Will do

    thank you so much for your response!

  • M1234

    Member
    August 7, 2023 at 5:03 pm

    hello

    did you find the right percentages or not ?

    iam searchig for the same formula & i need to know the right one

    • This reply was modified 7 months, 3 weeks ago by  M1234.

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