Forum Replies Created

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  • DAS

    Member
    February 27, 2018 at 10:03 pm in reply to: Information about NP9

    You will have to check with your suppliers to know what they have to offer, but this is a good starting point, here is the list of Dow replacements and here is everything else you need.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 27, 2018 at 5:24 pm in reply to: Information about NP9

    Yes and no. It’s safe for humans, but very harmful to aquatic organisms. For this reason it’s banned almost everywere, or the dosage is restricted to 1% or less. I suggest you replace it with a fatty alcohol.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 27, 2018 at 12:41 am in reply to: Solid Cologne

    Im pretty sure those are formulated with mostly base fragrances, long lasting but low volatility. Probably vanilla and sandalwood are the ones you can smell the most. For an acquous cologne I’m sure those are great, but if you throw in the mix waxes that will limit that volatility you end up with this precise problem. Im sure that if you try a citric in the same quantity you will have a much better result, like ozgirl said, citric fragrances are more volatile. 

    The suggestion in cases like this is to put yourself in the hands of the perfumist. Ideally you would give your supplier a sample of your product so they can formulate a fragrance accordingly. Reaching a balance of top and base notes is an art, it’s not something you fix yourself easily. Keep in mind a fragrance can have over 100 materials. It will be more expensive, yes, and the MOQ will increase, but it will be worth it. After all the fragrance is the most important thing in a cologne.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 26, 2018 at 6:17 pm in reply to: Heated dispenser for waxes

    Have you tried ribbon heaters?. You can attach and deattach easily to any metal container, and it comes in a wide range. Not ideal, but cheap and easy for sure.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 26, 2018 at 6:08 pm in reply to: Diethylhexylcyclohexane (Cetiol S) replacement

    This is a discussion about it: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/3909/silicone-alternatives#latest

    And this: https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/news/product-news/cosphatec-launches-cosphaderm-feel-000213339

    There are a lot of new alternatives since the EU ban, and im sure they’ll keep coming. I’d stick to the ones recommended by the users. Like everything new we have to be extra careful, who knows if in a few years many of those will have the same destiny of D5.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 26, 2018 at 5:30 am in reply to: shampoo not thickening

    Why would you add it to the surfactant?. Add it at the end. 

  • DAS

    Member
    February 26, 2018 at 4:12 am in reply to: Solid Cologne

    Although the concept of solid cologne is new to me the fragrance is low, the typical concentration for a cologne is about 5%.

    And of course the quality of the scent is the most important thing, if the quality isn’t good or it’s not designed for that purpose no matter how much you add it won’t make a difference.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 22, 2018 at 5:48 pm in reply to: Hair pomade formulation help

    Its posted in gr, not %. 

    It will be much easier for us if you post you formula in %.

    For what I can see you haven’t emulsified the oils properly. Study the HLB to understand why and how.

    http://www.academia.edu/29659624/HLB_system_Crodas_Time-Saving_Guide_to_Surfactant_Selection_Personal_Care_Edition_tHe_Innovation_you_can_build_on_tm

  • DAS

    Member
    February 21, 2018 at 6:35 pm in reply to: thickening a shower gel

    True, unless the oils turn it cloudy Tego only raises your cost. Also you could get rid of the glycerin, at that percentage it will reduce the foam and probably the viscosity.

    Most of the shower gels formulas I have seen don’t have thickeners, I never had to use myself. I formulated with SLES, and used glycerin and laureth to reduce the gel-like that SLES+CAPB gives and make it more fluid. 

    For a shower gel I think you are short on surfactants, usually the active matter is higher, and it’s best to cut the cost on thickeners and put it on surfactants for a better performance. 

    I like the suggestion Belassi made, more like a baby shampoo, mild, low irritation, foamy and no thickeners.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 18, 2018 at 7:45 am in reply to: Best pH for skin and eye makeup cleanser

    Benzalkonium chloride as a preservative in the presence of anionic?. That’s a big no.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 15, 2018 at 6:41 pm in reply to: for silky shampoo

    2% salt?. No wonder your hair looks terrible, that’s almost like seawater. Cut the salt and thicken it with something else.

    By the way, if you want a silky hair use silk ;)

    http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/FSS-Foaming-Silk-PF-p/fss20614pf.htm

  • DAS

    Member
    February 8, 2018 at 5:47 pm in reply to: NACL AND GLYCERIN IN WATER PHASE

    Is not rare to see comercial formulas with cetyl alcohol and salt, but 0,1% maybe.

    I don’t see 1% salt in a formula other than a shampoo. Im curious, what’s on that water phase?.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 7, 2018 at 3:46 pm in reply to: NACL AND GLYCERIN IN WATER PHASE

    Depending on the rest of the formula sodium chloride can act as a thickener. If a buffer is what you need a salt like EDTA is more appropriate.

    Glycerin can be used as a solvent.

  • DAS

    Member
    February 6, 2018 at 2:33 pm in reply to: thickening a shower gel

    Copolymers are great for that purpose, way better that any gum. You already are using synthetics, actually there is nothing natural in your formula, so I don’t see the problem.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 31, 2018 at 11:56 pm in reply to: thickening a shower gel

    Xanthan gum?. 

  • DAS

    Member
    January 31, 2018 at 11:16 pm in reply to: PH regulation of formula wich contains salycilic acid

    The neutralization will produce sodium salicylate, which has interesting properties itself. To know how much you will have to analyze it since it will also depend on the rest of your formula. 

    I remember someone recommending sodium lactate for that purpose.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 31, 2018 at 5:34 pm in reply to: Getting the benefits of Catanionic surfactant

    No. You have to use the permitted materials in the permitted concentration. Google it, its pretty much the same worldwide except for a few like triclosan. 

    The reason you see formulas like that online is that many of those are cationic and the use of anionic surfactants rends the antimicrobial useless.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 30, 2018 at 3:21 pm in reply to: shampoo formula

    12 + 3 CAPB + 1.2 DEA.

    For a daily use I consider it too strong. That formula would make my scalp itch on the 3rd day of use. 

  • DAS

    Member
    January 30, 2018 at 12:26 am in reply to: The best way to add flavor to the cream using natural components

    Of course, besides is great for marketing.

    Something that will save you time and money is asking for the COA before making the purchase. That way you make sure if you are buying something you are comfortable working with and you don’t get an unpleasant surprise.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 30, 2018 at 12:09 am in reply to: shampoo formula

    17% SLES is too much, in my opinion it will be too agressive for the scalp.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 10:07 pm in reply to: The best way to add flavor to the cream using natural components

    Using EOs is a terrible advice. Just because there are a couple of oils that anyone can get at a pharmacy and use freely is not a general rule.  Besides the fact that are too expensive, essential oils are raw materials for the manufacture of scents, and must be treated as such. 
    An allergic reaction is the least of the concerns, that would be the most notorious and obvious, but what about long term exposure?. What kind of bioactivity has?. Can you assure for example any residue will stay on the liver?. 
    Just consider most poisons are plant extracts. IMO you should never use any material if you don’t have a safety assessment and the assurance is safe to use in human body. 
    There is a reason this is a multi million dollar industry. It’s far better to purchase oils made by a perfumist on a lab that will guarantee you the product you are using is safe.
    Besides, even if you think an oil is safe to use it will also depend on many factors, like the method of extraction or the filtering. Lets say you want to buy a citric oil, depending on the method a company can offer you 20 different oils that look the same and have the same aroma but are chemically different. 

    Nowdays you can purchase online pretty much anything, and there is a lot of info, that most of the time doesn’t have any science to back it up. This is a huge problem. People arent aware of the consecuences and would missuse products becase they read about it on mommy blogs. I had calls asking for citronella essential oil to use on the skin becase people read that it reppels insects, so they want to bathe their babies with pure oil becase it’s oil and it’s natural, so it’s safe right?.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 5:51 am in reply to: The best way to add flavor to the cream using natural components

    There isn’t such a thing as allergens free fragrance. They simply have less than the permitted limit so you don’t have to declare it. You will have to check your local regulations regarding allergens. 

    Contact a manufacturer and ask for fragrances that fit your needs, and of course they have to give you the proper documentation. The COA you need will be something like this:

    https://cosmeticsmadeeasy.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Bubble-Gum-Fragrance-Oil-COA.pdf

  • DAS

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 4:48 am in reply to: References: material interactions

    The interactions are so complex that you would need a quantum computer to predict a simple mixture of two raw materials. There are too many variables making it mathematically impossible to predict.

    Luckily! Otherwise we wouldn’t have a job :P

    “I just wondering if there are books/references/links that explain about chemical/ physical interaction for any materials.”

    I think every book ever written about chemistry fits that description :D

    But I get your point. There are many interesting papers written, and many sources for them. Mostly university research. The issue? You have to pay for it. And I mean paying $40 for a pdf that may or may not give you the answers you need. If you are interested here are a few links:

    https://link.springer.com/journal/volumesAndIssues/11696

    https://www.sciencedirect.com/

    https://www.nature.com/nchem/

    https://www.researchgate.net/

  • DAS

    Member
    January 25, 2018 at 5:55 pm in reply to: Addition of a scent to a cream soap shaving product

    I suggest you do the opposite. The fragrance should adapt to your product, not the other way around. Fragrances are formulated diferently depending on the system.

    You should contact a decent manufacturer, and ideally give them a sample of your product. They will test it and offer you scents that fits your needs.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 20, 2018 at 7:46 pm in reply to: Addition of a scent to a cream soap shaving product

    There are a few topics about this. Check @David08848 threads, you will find helpful info regarding shaving creams. 

    For shaving creams the general suggestion was 4% and custom made fragrance. Don’t use essential oils, you will waste your money and you might have trouble due to high allergens content. 

    My rule is to always add scents at the end of any formulation, keep in mind they are volatile.

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