Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating The best way to add flavor to the cream using natural components

  • The best way to add flavor to the cream using natural components

    Posted by pranayana on January 25, 2018 at 9:56 pm

    Hello
    I made 98% natural, very nice cream (only 2% dimethicone is not natural component). Everyone who uses it is satisfied. But now they ask me to add some scent to this cream ( at the moment it doesn’t have any scent at all). I read that essential oils are not very good for use in creams, because they can cause discoloration, they quickly deteriorate, and in addition, can cause an allergic reaction. But I don’t want to use any geraniol, evgeniol etc. either, because of their bad reputation in natural cosmetics. So what should I use? I would like to add some grapefruit-orange scent to my cream. What is the best way to do this?

    DAS replied 6 years, 3 months ago 4 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • David

    Member
    January 25, 2018 at 10:05 pm

    If you want to avoid allergenes on the label - add a perfume without those allergenes that need to be declared in EU.

  • tanelise

    Member
    January 25, 2018 at 10:19 pm

    @pranayana, I believe the link below contains the list of allergens @David is referring to.

    http://www.gcimagazine.com/articleaddons/106764043.html

  • pranayana

    Member
    January 26, 2018 at 1:34 am

    @David 
    Could you, please, tell me the site, where I can buy such perfumes?

  • pranayana

    Member
    January 26, 2018 at 1:35 am

    @tanelise
    Unfortunately it seems that the link is broken  :(

  • tanelise

    Member
    January 26, 2018 at 2:51 am
  • pranayana

    Member
    January 26, 2018 at 11:01 pm

    @tanelise

    Thanks a lot, now the link works. But I have a question - how do I know if none of this components are in the perfume? I have some experience in the production of creams, but in the matter of perfume I am a complete layman. Here at the forum I saw one of the participants (unfortunately, I do not remember who it was) recommended another participant to use a perfume from this site in the after shaving cream .
    http://theperfumedcourt.com/
     I do not know if I can use perfume from this site in a nourishing face cream? And if so, how do I understand that there are no containing allergen substances ( from the list you provided) in this perfume? Thank you!
  • DAS

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 5:51 am

    There isn’t such a thing as allergens free fragrance. They simply have less than the permitted limit so you don’t have to declare it. You will have to check your local regulations regarding allergens. 

    Contact a manufacturer and ask for fragrances that fit your needs, and of course they have to give you the proper documentation. The COA you need will be something like this:

    https://cosmeticsmadeeasy.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Bubble-Gum-Fragrance-Oil-COA.pdf

  • tanelise

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 12:05 pm

    @DAS, thanks for the clarification on allerge free fragrances. I’ve seen them advertised on many U.K. sites. Even tried to order some but couldn’t get them shipped to me (USA).

    @pranayana, Maybe you can rethink using essential oils and offset some of the potential irritants with extracts with soothing components perhaps? Despite what you’ve read about essentials oils, I’d still experiment with them, even if just for your own personal use. There are many companies that successfully manufacture and sell such creams. GOOD LUCK!

  • pranayana

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 7:38 pm

    @DAS Many thanks! Now the picture is much clearer.

    @tanelise Thank you very much for your advice. I myself thought about using essential oils after all I had learned. And one last question, could you name a manufacturer that produces essential oils of good quality from whom I could buy online? There are so many of them that I just do not know who to buy from. I would like to buy from a trusted manufacturer. Thanks in advance!

  • DAS

    Member
    January 27, 2018 at 10:07 pm

    Using EOs is a terrible advice. Just because there are a couple of oils that anyone can get at a pharmacy and use freely is not a general rule.  Besides the fact that are too expensive, essential oils are raw materials for the manufacture of scents, and must be treated as such. 
    An allergic reaction is the least of the concerns, that would be the most notorious and obvious, but what about long term exposure?. What kind of bioactivity has?. Can you assure for example any residue will stay on the liver?. 
    Just consider most poisons are plant extracts. IMO you should never use any material if you don’t have a safety assessment and the assurance is safe to use in human body. 
    There is a reason this is a multi million dollar industry. It’s far better to purchase oils made by a perfumist on a lab that will guarantee you the product you are using is safe.
    Besides, even if you think an oil is safe to use it will also depend on many factors, like the method of extraction or the filtering. Lets say you want to buy a citric oil, depending on the method a company can offer you 20 different oils that look the same and have the same aroma but are chemically different. 

    Nowdays you can purchase online pretty much anything, and there is a lot of info, that most of the time doesn’t have any science to back it up. This is a huge problem. People arent aware of the consecuences and would missuse products becase they read about it on mommy blogs. I had calls asking for citronella essential oil to use on the skin becase people read that it reppels insects, so they want to bathe their babies with pure oil becase it’s oil and it’s natural, so it’s safe right?.

  • tanelise

    Member
    January 28, 2018 at 2:02 am

    @pranayana, the only recommendation I can provide is http://www.theperfumery.com. They carry pure and authentic essential oils and aromatic raw materials but sell to companies only. Big and small. 

    I believe it’s owned by Dr. Robert S Pappas. You can see several of his lectures on The Chemistry of Essential Oils on YouTube. 

    As a side note, I’d also recommend taking a look at Pacific Institute of Aromatherapy. There’s a LOT to learn about essential oils. Dr. Kurt Schnaubelt has written several books on the subject - mostly scientific in nature.

  • pranayana

    Member
    January 29, 2018 at 7:17 pm

    @tanelise
    Thanks again! I will definitely watch these lectures.
    As for the essential oils, I decided to buy those that have the FDA certificate.
    Like this:

    https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/products/grapefruit-essential-oil/profile
    or this:
    https://www.rockymountainoils.com/organic-orange.html
    And I’ll see what the result will be. I do not think that three or four drops of FDA certified  citrus oil per 100 grams of the final product will have some disastrous effect on the body.

    @DAS
    Thank you for your advice but I I still decided to try the essential oils that are certified by the FDA. I hope they can not be harmful.

  • DAS

    Member
    January 30, 2018 at 12:26 am

    Of course, besides is great for marketing.

    Something that will save you time and money is asking for the COA before making the purchase. That way you make sure if you are buying something you are comfortable working with and you don’t get an unpleasant surprise.

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