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shampoo formula
hay
i am trying to reach a formula that works best for me and my work and i have some questions if you could kindly answerdry hair shampoo
1- 68.5% water
2- 11% sodium laureth sulfate (70%))
3- 9% cocamidopropyl betaine (30%)
4- 3%
glycol distearate (( could i use Euperlan PK771 instead of distearate
because distearate is not always available and will it give the same
effect on pearlizing the shampoo and suspending the dimethicone ))
5- 2%
glycerin (( i read a lot on the site and i understand from your
comments that it will be washed away but i need something to help the
hair feel less dry or make feel good on the hair while applying it and i
don’t want to use oils like castor ))
6- 2% polyquaternium 7 (( is 2% a
high percentage or is it in right range of use and if i added 0.5%
polyquaternium 10, should i remove the polyqua 7 or it would be better to
have both ))
6- 1.5% cocamide dea
7- 1% dimethicone (( will this percentage cause heavy build up ))
8- 1.2% sodium chloride
9- 0.5% perfume
10- 0.1% propylene glycol
11- 0.2% preservativeIf
I wanted to make an oily hair shampoo can I use the same recipe but
with raising the SLES percentage to 17% and reducing the dimethicone and
polyqua 7and at last should an everyday shampoo formula resemble dry hair shampoo
I know I ask a lot but i want to learn the right way
and thank you in advance for any question answered -
39 Replies
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If you want an oily shampoo, raise the oils and lower the oilremovers, i.e. the surfactants.
If you want a shampoo for oily hair do the opposite. -
SLES is a crap surfactant. That’s my opinion. It’s the one everyone uses because it is dirt cheap, but it is pretty crummy.
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unfortunately it is the only one available in my country right now, so i have to work with it
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@Belassi - What do you find particularly objectionable about SLES? What is your preferred cleansing surfactant?
I’ve found SLS is better for foaming for sure but SLES is good for reducing the potential irritation of SLS formulas.
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Same question as Perry.
I thing Belassi uses ALS or ALES.
SLES is 70% is a pain to disperse in water, but with some patience I could avoid foaming almost 100%. -
Belassi also uses LGC Sorb.
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1. To make an oily hair version - Yes you can do as you suggested.
2. Yes, an everyday shampoo could be more like a dry shampoo. Maybe just increase the surfactant levels slightly for differentiation.
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thanx @Perry
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17% SLES is too much, in my opinion it will be too agressive for the scalp.
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thanx @DAS
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We already have a shampoo with almost 17% SLES (70%) and we did not have any complain so far.
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@em88 - I agree. ~12% active surfactant is not an unreasonable amount. Shampoos range 9 - 15% active surfactant
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12 + 3 CAPB + 1.2 DEA.
For a daily use I consider it too strong. That formula would make my scalp itch on the 3rd day of use.
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before becoming a belassi follower i used 10 + 2 CAPB + CDE without any issue for years. now just use LGC sorb + sodium cocoamphoacetate + CAPB
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@ 2cde sorry
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@Perry @DAS , i read that i shouldn’t add DEA when calculating the surfactant % and i see you are adding it
so does cocamide dea act as a surfactant and i should add it -
Yes, Cocamide DEA is a surfactant. It’s old technology that most people avoid however.
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I tend to avoid cocamide DEA, it seems it has a bad reputation to the patients due to its potential to cause cancer.
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@Taher, what did you decide to do with the poly quats?
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@sven it is still to be decided ut from what i read so far i am going to try 0.5% polyqaut-10 with 1% polyquat-7 for dry hair
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@perry thank you, i will start adding it to my active % calculations
@em88 what do you suggest for a replacement -
@taher , polyquat 10 needs heating to disolve completely whereas you could get away using polyquat 7 as a cold process
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@sven, thank you for the notice
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@Taher I use SLES with CAPB and with disodium laureth sulfosucinate
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