chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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All of these are pretty robust. My only advice is to be sure you have a rheological additive to maintain suspension during filling (hot fill sticks) and shelf life (roll-on lotions.) In the sticks, those hectorite clays do the job. Lotions are a bit trickier but hydrated silica or Veegum can work.
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Even more relevant is this: the C12/C14/C16/C18 “cut” is the most reliably ubiquitous fraction from coconut, palm and corn oil, the traditional renewable feedstocks for all saturated fatty acids, at least since beef tallow became unfashionable. The fraction mass ratio goes C18 (stearyl)>C16(cetyl)>C12 (lauryl)>C14(myristyl). Its just nature, folks! Plus the fact Proctor & Gamble has cut more of this than any other manufacturer on the planet for over a century. Until the Malaysian and Indonesian entities took shape 25 years ago, P&G ruled the market. I am a personal fan of cetyl alcohol for most formulating needs.
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We’ve held marbles in suspension using Synthalen W-600 (acrylates copolymer) in a sulfate-free surfactant blend body wash at pH6.0. Don’t ask me why - just for the fun of it.
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@Dtdang If I interpret your question correctly here: there should not be any problem (in efficacy?) if that ascorbyl ether is formulated at pH 4.5 or lower.
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I cannot fathom how kaolin would be a better and less expensive abrasive than dicalcium phosphate, which was used traditionally in these dentrifices. Is there an issue using phosphates in E.U.? If you are to “put clay in the mouth” then try out the perlites from Imerys, a Spanish company. More abrasive than kaolin.
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Negative, the glycol ether works best. If it is oil creep then perhaps try adding a bit more tribehenin and cooling that gel REALLY SLOWLY. If that crystal structure doesn’t form right you will get the syneresis you see there.
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@JonahRay Are you sure its oil not glycerin popping out? Switch out the glycerin with dipropylene glycol and see what happens.
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Xanthan will have the highest Yield Value for thixotropy of the two you mention but carbomer will outpace all of these and since you are already using Dermacryl 79 why not use carbomer and neutralize at same time as the other polyacrylate? - a win/win with matchy-matchy acrylic chemistry. (Again, like I been sayin’, xanthan gum is a substance abuse problem worldwide!)
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@majibo You’ll want to heed the advice of @grapefruit22 in reducing the polyol content there, but I think your main problem here is too much reliance on so very little emulsifier and hoping xanthan gum can carry the burden of rheology stabilization. The total polyglyceride fatty acid (PEFA) content of Croda’s NatraGem EW (try to use correct spelling next time, please) is less than 2.0% solids in your formulation. This is a mixed/multi ester PEFA, the least likely to stand on its own. You need a buddy emulsifier in there. I’d employ a discrete monoester PEFA such as Polyglcyeryl-4 Stearate, Polyglcyeryl-6 Oleate, etc. or another chemistry such as a fatty acid carboxylate. I just presented a paper on this subject so I know whereof I speak. Croda’s lit - like so many other specialty chemical suppliers’ - must always be subject to critical analysis. In this case that NatraGem system will not work on it’s own without a helper. Finally, xanthan gum is another substance abuse problem among cosmetic formulators and I think there needs to be an intervention.
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Carbomers are much, much more robust than everyone thinks they are, especially the less crosslinked ones. Do not worry, use your homogenizer. Regarding order of addition for ALL polymer resins and gums natural or synthetic: allways disperse in water alone first! The exception are the HASE thickeners, those can usually drop in later. I never understood the whole “disperse (resin or gum) in glycerin or oil or whatever then add to batch.” Madness.
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Here’s a hack for allantoin solvation: urea greatly increases allantoin solubility in water. Add them both: one a skin protectant the other a skin softener.
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I’ll second that motion from @Syl. You are looking at using the Arianor semi-permanent dyes (also Sensient products) onto the fur of dogs? I don’t think that is wise. If you must do this, why not use instead an optical brightener such as Optiblanc SX from 3V Sigma USA, disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate? You’ll need only 0.50% maximum in there, it is not so anionic as to interfere with any surfactant, and is non-toxic. This brings out the color highlights no matter what color the fur.
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@suswang8 what you are experiencing is the age-old dilemma of gear-drive versus direct-drive mixer utility. The direct drive units do not have the pumping capacity that the gear-drive ones do, but they can spin at much faster speeds. When flowing - good, when viscous - not so good. It is best to employ both, like a high-speed Lightnin’ direct drive and a gear drive unit like a Glas-Col.
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@ketchito is spot on. Trust me, it’s the Guar HPTC all along, though I don’t know the nature of “vegesilk.” The cheaper grades of guar HPTC will always flake. Throw a better plasticizer in there, like…wait for it…glycerine. (I hate it when glycerin wins!)
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Sunflower lecithin is higher in phosphatidyl serine than the typical soya-based stuff. Never used it myself, but that may be a hindrance. You want to use the liquid dispersion and not much of it either: 1.0 - 1.5% is plenty with 10% oil load. Add glycerin and a diol (PG or BG) to the water and mix well while hot. Good luck.
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@Abdullah the GMO does not like to support LLC formation like GMS does, so negative on that. The GMS alone may support with certain emulsifier combinations, but not a singular one like you describe. I’ve always used this ratio for LLC network formation: cetyl alcohol : glyceryl stearate @ 3:1. Seems to work even with those #%$@!! glycosides. The other “hack” with LLC is slow mixing while slow cooling. Too much shear at too steep a thermocline and you end up with soup.
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Your problem is called recrystallization and is common with butters. The answer to this very common problem is simple: add a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (PEFA) to this formula, preferably a multi ester such as Polyglyceryl -4 Diisostearate or Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate. Both are used in food science to avoid the very same problem. IF you cannot get hold of any the next best thing is this “hack”: use hydrogenated lecithin. Lends an icky sensorial compared to to the silky one the PEFA contributes, but it usually works.
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Lots of questions here…I am flooded…but here goes:
Affirmative, use vegetable shortening (hydrogenated vegetable oil) in your formula; edible grade works same as cosmetic grade; there is no difference; it is very comedogenic. -
@Abdullah: outstanding choices there my friend. The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters (PEFA) make the best sprayable emulsions.
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How often have I said this: friends don’t let friends abuse glycerin. Too many formulators are co-dependent with it (“glyceroholics” maybe?) and there needs to be an intervention. LOSE THE GLYCERIN, all it does is reduce viscosity and foam (you do want some right?) then rinses away into the sewer because glycerin would much prefer to be an effluent than a hydrator, moisturizer, humectant, whatever. Heat 70% deionized water up to 75C, then add the CAPB and use MORE of that because it is a hydrotrope: makes things like SCG and all those fatty acids get along well with water. Then under very slow mixing add the SCG and mix until dissolved. Now add your copious builders, then the cationic polymer leaving pH at 7.0 or higher lest those fatty acids ppt out. A touch of Kathon CG & Versene 100 there and you’re set. Also, @Abdullah has a point: reduce the SCG and increase the CAPB and you’ll feel better afterwards. I’d like to know the identity of this supplier so I can call ’em up and give ’em a what fer’.
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Lecithin makes gloop. Gloop doesn’t atomize well for sprays. Get rid of the lecithin, try Plan B.
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The short answer to your question is: yes, that shampoo will not clean as efficiently. Conditioning shampoos with cationic polymers (anionic xanthan is not advised) are by their nature dilution-deposition systems so some soil will join the coacervate upon rinsing off. This is why brands that are heavily into hair conditioning liquid products for the salon trade offer “clarifying shampoos” that feature no thickening polymers or any other agents other than surfactant detergents, but a healthy amount of disodium EDTA to aid in soil pick-up. I will offer that acrylic thickeners do act as anti-deposition aids (I formulate these into laundry detergents for this reason), but even those will reduce real cleansing somewhat.
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That “slurry technique” has always annoyed me. Add the HEC to water first, mix well for 30 minutes or more then hydrate/gel with a bit of NaOH. Next add the xanthan gum and let it hydrate. You now have your gel base. Proceed from there, adding sodium HYA, then SalAc at pH 6.0 - 7.0 until all is dissolved. Assuming you have some polyols in there to maintain SalAc dissolution, carefully lower the pH with lactic acid 88% to pH3.5 -4.0. You say 10% AHA? Good luck with that.
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I’d think you want sex to heat up not cool down. Any interest in using the Zeolites from Grace in an oil or silicone base? They warm up nicely when wetted.
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@WarrenChemist, I think you first need to see how your formulation plays on the vibraphone, then a reading on the vibrometer, then of course use it in the bedroom with the…you know where I’m going there.
This is a tough one though. Suspending those crystals - no problem, but sourcing them? Good luck, brother.