Please help to fix my Ferulic Acid + Ethyl Ascorbic Acid serum
Very happy to join the community.
I’m working on an emulsion serum with Ferulic Acid and Ethyl Ascorbic acid. I worked with several emulsifiers like Montanov 68, L, and 202, Olivem 1000(they were not light enough or i didn’t like their feeling) and Eumulgin SG (this sample was seperated after 10-20 days) but finally tried Natragem EW and it looked perfect and my client finally approved it. For 2 months i stored each sample in 4C, RT and for almost 3 days i stored it in 45C when i first made that batch. 3-4 days ago i discovered that they are separating. Before i realised the seperation, I’ve made new samples and sent it to the lab for stability testing,i guess they will fail eventually, this was heartbreaking for me but i wanna understand why it is happening, so that i can learn. I don’t know so many exprerienced cosmetic chemists so if you check my formula and tell me what did go wrong, i’d be appreciated.
AAQUA 58,8ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 0,5NIACINAMIDE 3PENTAVITIN 0,5ALLANTOIN 0,1NATRLQUEST E30 0,1
FERULIC ACID 0,2
CGLYCERIN 3XG 0,3
DNATRAGERM EW 4CAPRYLC CAPRYC TRIGLISERIDE 5SAFFLOWER OIL 0,5JOJOBA OIL 0,5
ELICORICE EXTRACT 0,5GEOGARD 221 0,8CENTELLA ASEITIACA EXTRACT 0,5FRANKINCENSE EO 0,2PALMAROSA EO 0,3LAVENDER EO 0,2OATMEAL EXTRACT 0,5TOCOPHEROL 0,5My method is: Prepare phases - Add Phase B to Phase A, add C to A+B, heat A+B+C and D separetly to 80C, homogenise for 4-6 mins in high shear- low shear when cool down, below 40 add phase E and mix. Adjust the pH 4,5-5,00.
I have 2 questions;
1-What do you think i can do to fix this formula?
2-Do you expertises think if i switch to a gel serum base, my job would be easier? Without lipid phase or emulsification, do you think i’d have more chance to get better stability results?
Thanks for reading and sharing your ideas!