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Carbomer 940 and cationic quaternary polymers
I’m making a hair gel with carbomer 940 and it’s not gelling. I suspect it’s the cetrimonium chloride I’m using or the Polyquaternium 7 but it could also be the “hair fix” powder (VP/VA copolymer) I’m not sure. The formulation is below. I use TEA to bring the PH up. The plan is to put the oil soluble ingredients in after it gels. I also add everything to the water, then the carbomer, then the tea. Any ideas would be great.
114 91.2 80% water 2.85 3% propanediol 2.28 2.00% propylene glycol 1.026 0.90% carbomer 0 tea 0.285 0% cet chloride 3.99 4% PVP 0.57 1% Poly 7 1.14 1.00% marula oil 3.42 3.00% SILICONE GEL 1.14 1.00% panthenol 0.57 1% rice protein 4.56 4.00% rice curl complex0.57 1% preservative 0.57 0.50% essential oil 100.15% -
5 Replies
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@niecie2k Since there are some oils, Cetrimonium chloride will try to for an emulsion. Make a sample without it.
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Not sure if I’m reading your post right, but add the carbomer first and give it time to hydrate in water (you can add your glycols as well) but stay away from cationics/ actives until carbomer is hydrated. What is the final pH you are adjusting to?
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I will try that. I usually only adjust until it thickens. A PH of about 6 does that. I have waited for it to Thicke to then add the cationics, just a tiny bit, but it immediately goes thin. As you can see, I have tried this many many times, many, many ways.
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Not only is the cetrimonium chloride quat MOST DEFINITELY incompatible with the carbomer, but that protein isn’t helping things either. I’m unsure what you are striving to achieve here too. What’s with all that PVP? Why have both propanediol and propylene glycol in same formula? They are redundant, so just use the less expensive glycol. BTW, what exactly is “rice curl complex”?
I am curious. -
Rice curl complex is sold by formulator sample shop. The INCI is Water & Lactobacillus/Tomato Fruit Ferment Extract & Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract & Keratin Amino Acids & Acyl Coenzyme A Desaturase and it’s probably incompatible as well. What am I trying to achieve? A gel for my very fine curly (often frizzy) hair. Something that will GRAB the curls and help them keep in the curl pattern, rather than frizzing up. The PVP helps with that and is an excellent addition to the gel. I figured that the cetrimonium chloride was incompatible judging from how it thinned out with the tiniest amount added. I wonder if its the same deal with the polyquat 7 as I really need those to balance out the charges in my hair. As a hobby formulator, I look at what the professional brands use in trying to formulate my own and several use both PG and propanediol.
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