chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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That would be a good guess, especially if those biphasics are lipid/aqueous. NaCl will usually destabilize standard colloidal systems. Honestly, I don’t quite “get” these, and they pop up as gimmicks from time to time.
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I’ll second Mark’s reply here, adding that you are not to “formulate” liposomes so much as “fabricate” them. Once fabricated then you may formulate with them. As Mark says, the right equipment - and reagents - are needed. How comfortable are you handling ethyl ether? Blows up real good, I hear.
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If you are formulating products for distribution outside the USA, Canada, and Australia/NZ, then Tinosorb M is a good UVA/UVB absorber. It also stabilizes avobenzone well. As my esteemed colleague mentions however, it has never been approved by the US FDA for use here. Bummer!
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@Pharma you are so on it there. Kudos to you. Best humectant known to mankind: a swim. Now, @tinas you are no doubt experiencing what happens when you try to use glycerin in a detergent cleansing formula such as body wash? Am I right? Here’s the answer: NOTHING. Glycerin wants to be an effluent in that situation, not a humectant. Use a polyglyceryl ester or the Old School PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or even polyquaternium-7 or 10.
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Close but no cigar there. Adding the HPMC to a spare amount of really hot water is the correct first step, but the next step is to then slowly add cold water until it hydrates and forms a gel. THEN you can add your other stuff, but not too much of the soap. Too much electrolyte will crash these cellulosics. Happy trails, friend.
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Here’s a cheap hack for you. Buy Argo corn starch from the store, mix it with some sorbitol 70% and a little plasticizer-detackifier like propylene glycol or butylene glycol, dissolve all in water or water-ethanol (Everclear from the liquor store) then apply to the hair, style and see what happens. Ya need to heat it up to affect hydration of starch, just like making Chinese stir-fry.
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This depends on your application, as so often is the case. Whassup with your formula vector? The guar HPTC is indicated for dilution-deposition of dimethicone and polyquats in hair care shampoos and conditioners. The starch HPTC is used more as a fixative for hair styling products. Neither is great at thickening formulations, if that is any help.
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@fareloz is right to suggest using saccharide gums, although even some of these can diminish in viscosity with time at low pH. Historically we used nonionic alkyl ethoxylates (e.g. Ceteareth-12, Steareth-2) to make emulsions at extreme ends of the pH scale. If you don’t mind that dreaded “-eth” in your LOI, that is.
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I’ve been leaning towards genome-centered studies as of late. Genemarkers (Kalamazoo, MI, USA) has developed some amazing methods to validate outcomes of product application. It is a new science but I think will be the future of claims substantiation.
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@ketchito has granted you good guidance here. Nearly all of those oils will smoke and likely decompose when heated with a straightening iron/tourmaline iron. This is one reason why silicones have been so effective in these mediums - lubricity & shine being the other. I would sub in esters for all those botanicals and the alkane. These have high bp and do not smoke. You’ll need to experiment with mixtures to get the right mix of lubricity and shine, but you’ll get there eventually. Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and diisostearyl malate would be a good place to start.
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This is a tough one here. You were smart to include the silicones and that should fend off any humidity affects. I can only point to that cassia polyquat. That is likely hygroscopic in solid state. On the other hand, maybe all the cationic salts here are hygroscopic in solid state? Would adding more dimethicone help?
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Your phase separation issue might be due to all the BKC quat you have in there (why?), since cationics do not play well with CMC or metasilicate salts. This is a floor cleaner not a hospital sanitizer right? Try BIT instead or just Kathon, its cousin. I also see so much redundancy here: so many glycols in one place, why? These serve no purpose. This cries out for a glycol ether however. Ever hear of Dowanol glycol ethers? That’s the solvent strategy you need.
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This is what is called a spherulite cleanser system wherein the oils (note all that soybean oil) is encapsulated in liquid state by fatty acids in spherule vesicles. These reside suspended within the larger surfactant mixture where they will not affect foam or viscosity as they normally would. Lauric acid is the preferred medium, stearic a distant second. My curiosity here extends to the presence of hydroxystearic acid. That serves only to thicken lipids. The Unilever peeps must know something that I don’t have time for figuring out here, I guess.
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@Pharma is mainly right on here, lamellar liquid crystal (LLC) formation stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions pretty much exclusively and the builders fatty alcohols and glyceryl esters accommodate this as we all know. Invert emulsions like w/o and w/Si are an entirely different story: its upside down world like that Stranger Things TV series. Those same builders will destabilize these, and your o/w nemesis salt will stabilize them, as will having a high internal (disperse) phase. Upside down, right? Also pays to remember that virtually all invert emulsions are intrinsically unstable thermodynamically. Place the sample in an incubator for ACC testing and you’ll rarely see 60 days intact without a rheology additive in there.
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You are advised to DEL the stearic acid and substitute 12-hydroxystearic acid @5.0% in its place. You will see a little more suspension property since you will see much more thickening.
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You may not need to run USP<51> PET testing on those anhydrous products, but HRIPT safety testing will be needed, especially in light of the newest MoCRA statute and 100% needed if you are exporting to UK, EU, China, etc. Even without state-inspired requirements, remember it is the litigators you need to look out for more than the regulators.
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The descriptors are defined by the testing agency, there is no definitive standard lexicon as far as I know. I found it best to keep the language as simple as possible so as to keep test subject clarity in mind.
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Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids will do this task. E.g. Polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglcyeryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, etc.
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Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids prevent recrystalization of shea, cocoa and all other butters. Try Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate or Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. The food techs have been using these for decades for same reason. Bonus: as surfactants, they assist in wash-off later whether on your hair or on your clothes. Also these are edible. Safe as can be whether the bunny thing applies or not.
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Affirmative. Same chemistry, just not always repeat results like the pro’s get.
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My opinion only here: get the 3 core surfactants and leave out the 2 redundant ones. The taurate and coco-glucoside are redundant. Iselux LQ-CLR, CAPB, lauryl glucoside are all you’ll need. Use at 1:1:1 ratio solid-state for good viscosity build sulfate-free.
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hakem, the proteins are making this “tacky” or sticky as you have felt. This formula will not mist or spray, only stream from nozzle, because you have two polymers in here: guar HPTC and polyquaternium-7. Polymers do not like to atomize in sprays. The dilemma for you: those are the best detanglers in your formula! Take out and not much detangler. Make this a serum, not spray, and reduce those proteins. If not, take out polymers and spray on as “hair treatment”.
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@fotis83 You are referring to SugaNate 160NC from Colonial Chemical, absolutely one of the best renewable anionics out there. It is a 40% active surfactant and works like a champ in building shampoos, cleansers, body washes. Purchasing by the drum, it is not all that expensive either. (Pail? that is another story.) FYI everyone in North America: Colonial just started a small-scale supply chain outlet named The Surfactant Store where you may purchase lesser quantities of their surfactants. I know I sound like I’m selling for them, but I do not work there, just done business with Colonial for 25 years or so and have a chemist pal Dennis Abbeduto leading their personal care division.
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@evchem2 here is a starter doc I use as a good reference. Mark Chandler’s ACT Solutions Corp is one of the stellar sensory evaluation labs in the USA, if that is where you hang your fedora, and they have reasonable costs too. http://www.actsolutionscorplab.com
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Affirmative. When you are using in the shower, this formula leaves behind an oil film on your body. Dimethicone works the best. You may have seen these advertised as “lotion body washes” and I seem to remember Unilever having patent rights way back when.