Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Heat Protectant formula Silicone Alternative

  • Heat Protectant formula Silicone Alternative

    Posted by Jan on February 24, 2023 at 7:56 pm


    I am formulating a anhydrous heat protectant serum for hair below to protect against damage from heat styling. I created this formula below but want to tweak it. I had an idea that it would feel a bit oily because of the oil concentration and it was. My thought is to add Isododecane since it’s volatile for a fast dry and lightweight product by replacing some of the oils or replacing Natrasil with Isododecane, increasing Hemisqualane and taking away from the oils. Thoughts on Isododecane?

    Hemisqualane C13-C15 Alkane: 40%

    Safflower oil:30%

    Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Olive Oil unsaponifiables (Natrasil):20%

    Grapeseed oil: 9.7

    Tocopherol: .5

    Fragrance: .2

    chemicalmatt replied 9 months, 1 week ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • ketchito

    February 24, 2023 at 9:52 pm

    Just out of curiosity, are you gonna test the heat protection properties of that formula with a third party lab? There’s a reason why heat protection polymers from Dow, Ashland or Croda (to name a few) were made the way they made. Natural oils and esters are good emollients, but some can be degraded at the viry high temperatures styling tools reach when in contact with hair.

  • chemicalmatt

    March 2, 2023 at 3:50 pm

    @ketchito has granted you good guidance here. Nearly all of those oils will smoke and likely decompose when heated with a straightening iron/tourmaline iron. This is one reason why silicones have been so effective in these mediums - lubricity & shine being the other. I would sub in esters for all those botanicals and the alkane. These have high bp and do not smoke. You’ll need to experiment with mixtures to get the right mix of lubricity and shine, but you’ll get there eventually. Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and diisostearyl malate would be a good place to start.

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